Installed MorRyde HD Shackles and Wet Bolt Kit

[Ford truck guy]

Originally Posted by riciren

I am getting ready to do some upgrades to our 2013 36 FL, could you please tell me the model numbers of the wetbolt kit and the mor/ryde sre 4000 you purchased, thanks,

I suggest you call Mor/Ryde and have them walk you through the process of measuring.
There seams to be not a lot of uniformity when it comes to these axle sets..
I had the folks at Lippert AND Cross Roads Both tell me that I needed a certain Wheelbase , and after doing all the calculations per Mor/Ryde , it was determined that I actually needed the other part number...
Here is the email I received from them when I asked about my part numbers - -

Joe,

This is what you need to measure to determine the wheel base. Measure from the center of the bolt hole of the front spring hanger to the center of the bolt hole of the rear spring hanger. A 59" measurement is equal to a 33" wheelbase and a 61" measurement equals a 35" wheelbase.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks,Chris Null
Aftermarket Sales
MORryde International, Inc.
1966 Sterling Avenue
Elkhart, Indiana 46516
(574) 293-1581 ext. 212

[shrode]

I'm preparing to install the MORryde SRE 4000 and heavy duty shackles. I purchased the UO12-016 shackle kit for tandem axels with 2-1/4" shackles. I just discovered that my 2017 31SL has the Correct Track System installed which means that I need the UO12-029 shackle kit according to the Lippert website. I'm a bit surprised that I haven't seen this in any of the Redwood discussions, and it's not as common a kit as the -016. Has anyone done this upgrade with the Correct Track that can confirm my interpretation and the part number?

[travelin' texans]

Contact MorRyde, they are very helpful & may swap your parts for the correct ones. From what I saw at the factory Lipperts wouldn't have a clue what they put on which model RW, they furnished the parts (including axles/springs) in a big pile & the folks on the line put whatever they wanted (within reach so they didn't have to move) together. Didn't know they ever put the Correct Track system on any RWs, don't recall it ever even being an option either.

[shrode]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

Contact MorRyde, they are very helpful & may swap your parts for the correct ones. From what I saw at the factory Lipperts wouldn't have a clue what they put on which model RW, they furnished the parts (including axles/springs) in a big pile & the folks on the line put whatever they wanted (within reach so they didn't have to move) together. Didn't know they ever put the Correct Track system on any RWs, don't recall it ever even being an option either.

My parts are from Amazon, so no problem returning them. Amazon doesn't have the UO12-029 kits, but RVupgrades.com has them in stock. I was also surprised when I realized that I had the Correct Track installed.

[xtasee]

Originally Posted by shrode

I was also surprised when I realized that I had the Correct Track installed.

I also have the 2017. It also has Correct Track. My Brochure showed it standard for 17.

I also believe that is when they went back to brass bushings (rather than the nylon) on the shackle pin.

Do me a favor and let us know when you install the shackles what you find. I have been told that because of all of the previous problems, they made the change in production.

[shrode]

Originally Posted by xtasee

I also have the 2017. It also has Correct Track. My Brochure showed it standard for 17.

I also believe that is when they went back to brass bushings (rather than the nylon) on the shackle pin.

Do me a favor and let us know when you install the shackles what you find. I have been told that because of all of the previous problems, they made the change in production.

I installed the MORryde SRE 4000 this weekend on my 2017 31SL. The RW was delivered with wet bolts and bronze bushings. The bushings were in generally good shape, but most had a 1/16-1/4 long crack inward from outer edge. The wet bolt orientation, i.e. the grease hole location, was random. Many of them were facing up or down, which explains the difficulty with them accepting grease. The bolts were also all installed with the grease fittings facing out, which made them almost impossible to grease with the tires on. I replaced all the bolts, bushings, and shackles with the SRE 4000 installation. UO12-029 is the correct shackle kit for installations with the Correct Track System.

One of the two brakes I checked was covered in grease. Brakes and bearings all around are next on the list!

One of the brakes wouldn't actuate at all when power was applied. The problem cleared while troubleshooting, so I didn't identify the root cause. Possibly an intermittent wiring crimp fitting...it checked out when removed, but everything worked after I soldered the connections. Lesson learned: assume nothing, verify everything.

[travelin' texans]

You actually hard bronze bushings in the spring eyes also? As Gomer Pyle would say, SURPRISE, SURPRISE, SURPRISE!

[RWJSIM2003]

I to switched our RW over to the SRE 4000 along with wet bolts this last spring. Made and amazing difference in how the RW travels. I replaces all the brakes and added the Timken bearings at the same time. All the brakes were covered in grease and were trash. So much difference in braking now. Thinking I may go to disk and 17.5" tires this summer but for now I am happy with the changes.

[xtasee]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

You actually hard bronze bushings in the spring eyes also? As Gomer Pyle would say, SURPRISE, SURPRISE, SURPRISE!

Remember when we had Christian and her dad? This change was due to the members here, their input, and Redwood being a part of this forum. They actually listened, made the change to production starting with the early 2017 models.

I have the same model as Shrode and was hoping he had the bronze bushings as promised. Good to know they were doing what they said. In all actuality, it probably cost them less than $20 per unit to make the change.

[NW Snowbirds]

[QUOTE=RWJSIM2003;77625]I to switched our RW over to the SRE 4000 along with wet bolts this last spring. Made and amazing difference in how the RW travels. I replaces all the brakes and added the Timken bearings at the same time. All the brakes were covered in grease and were trash. So much difference in braking now. Thinking I may go to disk and 17.5" tires this summer but for now I am happy with the changes.[/QUOT

I had all the same problems and made the same changes. Drums and linings were all scored and full of grease. Had to turn the drums. Also noticed that brakes were wired with 16 gauge wiring. Based on full load brake amperage draw, the wiring resistance would result in a calculated 3 volt drop. Rewired from pin box back to brakes with 10 gauge wires. What an improvement in stoppage! Don't need disc brakes. Also switched to Sailun G rated tires and very satisfied with them.

[RCAircraft]

I had MOR/ryde install their heavy duty shackle links and bronze bushings when our 36 RL had about 3,000 miles. The plastic bushings were all but gone (two were missing), two of the original bolts were broken and one spring eye was cracked. Those were gently miles and I am one of those RV'ers that folks do not like to get behind as I drive at 55-60 MPH max. The estimated 2-hour job took eight hours. They only charged me for the original quote. Great folks. I had considered doing the work however thank goodness I didn't. It took two trained techs all day with their great equipment and shop support to complete the install.

[RWJSIM2003]

[QUOTE=NW Snowbirds;77629]

Originally Posted by RWJSIM2003

I to switched our RW over to the SRE 4000 along with wet bolts this last spring. Made and amazing difference in how the RW travels. I replaces all the brakes and added the Timken bearings at the same time. All the brakes were covered in grease and were trash. So much difference in braking now. Thinking I may go to disk and 17.5" tires this summer but for now I am happy with the changes.[/QUOT

I had all the same problems and made the same changes. Drums and linings were all scored and full of grease. Had to turn the drums. Also noticed that brakes were wired with 16 gauge wiring. Based on full load brake amperage draw, the wiring resistance would result in a calculated 3 volt drop. Rewired from pin box back to brakes with 10 gauge wires. What an improvement in stoppage! Don't need disc brakes. Also switched to Sailun G rated tires and very satisfied with them.

I replaced the whole brake assembly including the drums. Use to have the controller maxed out at 10 and still nothing and now had the controller on 6 and if I go much higher the brakes will lock up easily. I will have to check the wire I am thinking that mine is 16 gauge also. I have the GY 614 G rated now so no big hurry on tires. We are not full timing so not over loaded.

[shrode]

[QUOTE=RWJSIM2003;77634]

Originally Posted by NW Snowbirds

I replaced the whole brake assembly including the drums. Use to have the controller maxed out at 10 and still nothing and now had the controller on 6 and if I go much higher the brakes will lock up easily. I will have to check the wire I am thinking that mine is 16 gauge also. I have the GY 614 G rated now so no big hurry on tires. We are not full timing so not over loaded.

Wow, I'm looking forward to that! I've never been able to lock mine up.

I'll measure the voltage at the brakes when I replace them, and report the results with the factory wiring. I had ~9 Vdc with my Silverado controller at 7.5. I'm looking at the brake assemblies at etrailer: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...EBRK-7-SA.html. They appear to be the same Axeltek assemblies that Lippert sells as OEM for twice the price.

[Ford truck guy]

[QUOTE=RWJSIM2003;77634]

Originally Posted by NW Snowbirds

I replaced the whole brake assembly including the drums. Use to have the controller maxed out at 10 and still nothing and now had the controller on 6 and if I go much higher the brakes will lock up easily. I will have to check the wire I am thinking that mine is 16 gauge also. I have the GY 614 G rated now so no big hurry on tires. We are not full timing so not over loaded.

When I had my factory drum brakes the settings on my Ford were on High
(from low-med-High) and 10...

Now with Ron’s discs I am at Medium and 6.5.. When I hit the brakes, I FEEL THEM. !

[Tom's38GK]

We to made the jump to Disc brakes after a couple of near misses. I also replaced the original equipment with the SRE4000 with cross bar and wet bolts. Not sure who did it but three of the 4 original brakes were contaminated beyond belief. Looked like they pumped a tube of grease into each of the drums. The whole job took me about 2 1/2 days to complete the wet bolts being the biggest PIA. (Hint on the wet bolts, They have to be perfectly lined up to get the plate over the threaded ends if you do not do this they will not go on. The tolerance is to tight and if there is any strain you will not get the back plate on enough to show the threads.) Test drove her on a outing for around 250 miles and what a difference very happy with the money spent on this upgrade. Anyone considering doing this it is well worth the money. I purposely put a roll of toilet paper on the edge of the counter in the bathroom and after 100 plus miles of not the greatest roads I found the roll never moved.