38RB rear door actuator or bungee cord?????

grayold mare · 06-18-2013, 06:07 PM

Anyone have problem with the actuator on the rear door. Ours
was ripped out when we received the coach and Cliff is not so sure that fixing
it and or replacing it with the same style of actuator is the answer. (No we are
not taking it back to Arizona to
get it fixed, a 6 hr drive.) We found the actuator in cargo bay a few days
after we got the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel. It would only be replaced and we think
that it being ripped out might be a common malfunction since it is intended to
only let the door open so far, (so it won’t slam into the slid). Anyone would
expect the door to open all the way, especially if the slid was in, and in so
doing could easily rip it out. (I know that being the bull in the china closet
that I am, I would be guilty of not being careful and possibly doing the same
thing so I can understand.)

Was just wondering if anyone else has or solved the problem
other than a bungee cord on the door to keep it from flapping in the breeze?

Cliff has several ideas but was looking for a sounding board
first.

BradPAjax · 06-18-2013, 11:39 PM

Hi,

We also have the 38BR and open the back door to get a cross breeze when set up. Because the Bonus Room is my office, we do not open that door until the dinette slide is already out... that keeps the door more or less protected from the wind.

I do not "play" with that door until we are set up...

My sailing nickname is "Moose"... stuff that Moose cannot move should be looked at by others... Moose not name... Moose Job!

The old black rubber bungee would work to stop the full extension of the door into the side of the slide but would not hold the door open. Perhaps repair/replace the actuator with a thru bolted attachment backed up with the bungee to stop the over extension that broke the actuator previously.

grayold mare · 06-19-2013, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BradPAjax

Hi,

The old black rubber bungee would work to stop the full extension of the door into the side of the slide but would not hold the door open. Perhaps repair/replace the actuator with a thru bolted attachment backed up with the bungee to stop the over extension that broke the actuator previously.

Just finished helping him out with
that job! Cliff is not all that happy with the looks of it because it is a
retro fit, but if no one points it out to you, you would never know, he is such
a perfectionist. Used the thru bolts, now I will have to tare out the whole
wall in order to rip it out. (Oh, I shouldn’t say that out loud!)

George66 · 06-21-2013, 06:54 PM

I fixed my Fl actuator too, the rivets pulled out only after a few openings.
I drilled three 1/4 " hole right through the door and bolted the actuator back on.
You just need to be carful it doesn't rub on top of the door when opening.
Had to bend the bracket up a bit so it doesn't pull out of the swivel bearing.
Works great now. I painted the bolts and brackets with the touch up paint they gave me.
Looks like a factory install, take that with a grain of salt lol.

atom ant · 06-21-2013, 07:18 PM

I saw the same issue on the Voltage at the Dealer. I thought I actually did it on one when I looked, but the Dealer said they even get delivered that way sometimes.

I would expect a different design soon.

UNDRPSI · 06-23-2013, 12:45 AM

I too had the actuator pull out the screws in our door. So I too drilled 1/4” holes through the door. Installed 3 Stainless Bolts with Nylock nut’s. Haven’t had a problem since.

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