Awning will not retract

Ian Smith · 04-16-2015, 11:39 PM

Hi we are in our new Redwood 38GK and the main awning will not retract. I know how to close it by using the jumpers,, I would like to know what can I try before I do that. The rain has just started and I would like to bring in the awning without getting up on a ladder.

I would also like to get into the back of the bedroom TV to connect a Joey. How do I remove the TV...Thanks Ian

Foxfire · 04-17-2015, 12:29 AM

Can't help with the awning but the TV should push up from the bottom and then the bottom should pull out and then drop down.

Shane Wood · 04-17-2015, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian Smith

Hi we are in our new Redwood 38GK and the main awning will not retract. I know how to close it by using the jumpers,, I would like to know what can I try before I do that. The rain has just started and I would like to bring in the awning without getting up on a ladder.

I would also like to get into the back of the bedroom TV to connect a Joey. How do I remove the TV...Thanks Ian

Ian
Have you checked the 12 fuse panel to see if the fuse is any good. If you have a 12v tester you could check and see if you have power to the switch. Also if I remember someone else with the same problem found the outside plug where the awning plugs in to the side of the coach was loose

johnboytoo · 04-17-2015, 12:57 AM

Maybe a picture of that horrible v shaped mount will help

**Dave&Ginny** · 04-17-2015, 03:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnboytoo

Maybe a picture of that horrible v shaped mount will help

Yep....if you sit on top of some pillows while laying in bed.....you can see the picture

TnB · 04-17-2015, 05:22 AM

On our2 month old unit, the TV mount in the bedroom is a little different than shown in the picture, but functions the same way.
To remove, push the TV up and slide the bottom out.
To install, install the bottom first and push the TV backward at the top. The top of the wall bracket is spring loaded and the top of the TV bracket will force the spring up.

Char & Steve · 04-19-2015, 02:55 AM

We had the same awning problem and it turned out to be a loose wire shorted out on the switch located in the lower storage compartment near the vac.

Steve

Ian Smith · 04-19-2015, 04:49 AM

Fixed,blown fuse.

Thanks for all the help...... Ian

Moland · 07-06-2015, 09:55 PM

When extending or retracting the awning it is very slow. Motors sound like low voltage, but batteries are fully charged?

Shane Wood · 07-07-2015, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moland

When extending or retracting the awning it is very slow. Motors sound like low voltage, but batteries are fully charged?

The electric awnings all seem to operate slowly. IMO it is under gauged wire feeding them. I have not got to it yet but want to run a 10 gauge jumper wire to see if that is it. It may just be the motors themselves do not turn fast enough. For me slow is better than the manual ones

atom ant · 07-07-2015, 12:32 AM

I need to put a voltage meter on mine, I think voltage drop through the wire is too much. Had to give mine a push to get it to close over the 4th.

travelin' texans · 07-07-2015, 03:59 AM

It could be the shocks on them are weak also. I had one leaking on the rear awning so replaced both & that awning operates smoother & faster now. If they leak all the oil out the awning will not extend just unroll.

atom ant · 07-07-2015, 03:57 PM

ya but on retract, the awning has to overcome the strut pressure, so it would seem a weak strut or shock would help the issue with the slow retract.

I hope it was just heat, but mine would not move without help this last time, except in the cool mornings.

RCAircraft · 07-08-2015, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

ya but on retract, the awning has to overcome the strut pressure, so it would seem a weak strut or shock would help the issue with the slow retract.

I hope it was just heat, but mine would not move without help this last time, except in the cool mornings.

Both of my awnings begin to slow down on retract and extend. I lubed all the joints with a silicone based lube including the strut rod. That did the trick.

atom ant · 07-09-2015, 01:47 AM

I should give that a try

RCAircraft · 07-09-2015, 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

I should give that a try

Being a retired EE and journeyman electrician I was looking for some serious electrical troubleshooting with the awnings. No fun in doing a lube job. Oh well, maybe next time. Speaking of lubing, I will be lubing my RW's wheel bearings tomorrow for the RW rally trip. Good news - my DW will be able to join us for the rally.

Shane Wood · 07-09-2015, 03:21 AM

That's good news Bob now you can stay in front of the camera recording the vidios

RCAircraft · 07-09-2015, 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane Wood

That's good news Bob now you can stay in front of the camera recording the vidios

Wow! Too shy for that.

travelin' texans · 07-09-2015, 07:28 AM

Don't know how you intend to lube your bearings, but I would definitely advise against using the bearing buddy zerks unless you've replaced the grease seals with a better quality seal. Even then I'm fairly sure mine will be done by hand from now on.

RCAircraft · 07-09-2015, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

Don't know how you intend to lube your bearings, but I would definitely advise against using the bearing buddy zerks unless you've replaced the grease seals with a better quality seal. Even then I'm fairly sure mine will be done by hand from now on.

I have seen several posts about the seal issue. I will try the method that the Dexter manual describes and hope for the best. Pulling the wheels and drums, for a blown seal could be a bit much for me however if it comes to that a complete brake job, new high quality bearings and whatever will be next on the agenda. Thanks for the heads up.

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