Big Gap In Front Cap And Roof Seal

[donwheeler]

I own a 2011 Redwood 36 RE.

I just discovered a significant gap where the roof is sealed to the front cap. I've used this forum to learn about roof sealants, but I'm posting because I feel my situation may be somewhat unique due to the size of the gap.

The cap-to-roof seal separation is 2-3 feet long; and as much as 1 inch high. Please refer to the picture.

When I use both hands to push down on the cap so it will come in contact with the roof; it simply pops back up exposing the gap. I can't determine if the roof has lowered in this area or whether the fiberglass cap is warped.

This leads me to believe my only option is to caulk the heck out of that opening. Would I still use Alpha Sytems or Dicor products? Self-leveling or not self-leveling? Do I remove the existing caulking before applying the new caulking. How do I clean the area prior to applying the caulking?

I'm open for any and all comments on how to remedy this problem.

Thanks, Don in Maine

[RomanyLife]

That's a super bummer! I don't know if it's just the picture, but it appears that the cap is misshapen... Can't tell for sure. I have no idea how to address that, but I bet someone here will!

[GA1817]

I had a small slit on my rear cap but it was only a few inches long. I too pushed it down and it popped back. I have thought about using eternabond tape and run it across the whole seam and then apply caulk. You would think the cap would be screwed into the deck. I eagerly want to hear ideas others have on this.

[shepcody]

Water is getting in under the top cap molding and rusting the screw threads. Clean off all the old sealant you can and remove a screw. You may not find any threads on it. Pre drill cap molding (larger than #8 screw) and add new screws next to old ones. You can pre drill for the new screws if you want to. Clean off old sealant with an old dull putty knife and seal with alpha sealant. I found it on line last year as I have a 2013 34SK and had to spot seal roof.

[Titan Guy]

I had a 2012 36RE and the same thing happened. The screws that go thru the molding and the alpha roofing into a cross member broke. The screw broke from? excessive flexing was the best guess.

[j1251b]

One thing you can do is cut the seal where it is coming up to relieve the pressure. Then push the seal back down and take a piece of eternabond tape and place over the seal where you cut it. Then take Dicor Self-leveling sealant and reseal the whole cap seal leaving the old sealant in place. When I did mine I used 8 tubes on self leveling sealant.

[travelin' texans]

There should be a metal strip joining the cap & roof & as stated previously the screws rusted off or are broke, I'd clean old caulk off as best I could to remove old screws if possible & replace with larger screws, preferably stainless steel, & recaulk the crap out of it. That's what I'd do! Right or wrong??

[Shane Wood]

RIGHT
You hit the nail on the head

[donwheeler]

Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.

Don in Maine

[Rick and Mindy]

Don, that Eternabond tape is incredible stuff. I got tired of having very small water leaks in my closet area of my prior fifth wheel so I put eternabond completely across the front seam where the cap met the roof and bingo, no more leaks. Just some words of caution though, be sure you place the eternabond where you want it because once you put it down you can't re-position it. I would definitely try to put new screws in the trim to keep it down before using eternabond. Eternabond is also what Redwood uses on the slideout roofs.

[Campers]

We had the same problem with our FL. The dealer removed the caulking, cleaned the area and rescrewed the cap to the coach. They recalled and have not had any issues in 3 years. They said it was caused by not enough screws in the first place and the torquing of the cap against the body. Good luck.

[Moos]

When I purchased my 2014, the front and back caps had what looks like Alpha Systems Superflex butyl tape or something similar over the seam (where the cap and alpha roofing material meet), and then the alpha superflex sealant around the edge of the tape. I don't know if it came this way from the factory or if it was done by my dealer ........ but its seems like a good idea.

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by Moos

When I purchased my 2014, the front and back caps had what looks like Alpha Systems Superflex butyl tape or something similar over the seam (where the cap and alpha roofing material meet), and then the alpha superflex sealant around the edge of the tape. I don't know if it came this way from the factory or if it was done by my dealer ........ but its seems like a good idea.

It's probably Eternabond tape and probably put on by a dealer or prior owner. I can tell you, the first time I see any sign of a possible leak in those seams, they will be covered with Eternabond. I question why Redwood doesn't use that on those areas anyway since it seems to be good enough for the slide roofs. That seems to be the go-to product for manufacturers these days to seal their slide roofs. Eternabond, if I remember correctly, recommends that the tape be caulked along all edges, something that I have not seen manufacturers doing.

[Rick and Mindy]

One of the issues I had early on with my Redwood was the Eternabond tape on the slide roofs. If you get up on a ladder and look closely at the front (outside) corner of the slide roofs (where the Eternabond rolls down onto the side you will see a very sharp point on that corner which end ups poking through the tape. They replaced the tape on mine at the Service Center but it still seems to be doing the same thing which I believe will be a possible leak area in the future. My plan is to file that sharp point down and then cover that corner with an additional piece of tape.

[donwheeler]

Here's an update on what I've done so far to correct the cap-to-roof gap.

The responders to my original post were right on target.
Just over half the screws on bedroom slide side had broken.

I removed all of the old sealant from the seam.
I put in several stainless steel screws in at 3-4 inch intervals.
Then I covered the seam with Dicor self-leveling lap sealant (see attached picture). I didn't put an abundant amount on (yet). I put on just enough to cover exposed screw heads and the metal strip. I had a concern that if I went strictly with the Eternabond tape method; exposed metal might ultimately damage the tape. Don't know if that's a valid concern or not.

I could use some advice on how to proceed from here.
1. I could just add a whole bunch more of sealant.
or
2. Once the sealant has hardened; cover the seam and existing sealant with 6 or 8 inch wide Eternabond tape. I just don't know if Eternabond tape can be applied over relatively new sealant. By the way, how long does it take for the sealant to harden?

Thanks,
Don in Maine

[GA1817]

Looks good Don. How hard was it to remove the old seal. Did you use heat?

[atom ant]

From what I can see, looks like you are done! Looks like how the factory does it.

[donwheeler]

I did not have to use heat to remove the caulking. However, the RV had been sitting in the driveway with the sun shining on it all day.
It probably took me about an hour to remove all of it.
I carefully used a putty knife to break it loose from the surface it was adhered to; then gently pealed it off.

[travelin' texans]

I agree with Brad except the part "it looks like factory", it looks better than factory. I'd call it good & see how it holds up, you can always add more if needed.

[travelin' texans]

Also, depending on the sealant you used, it may never harden, mine is still very soft.