Connections

[ayerpair]

Newbie question: what do I need for

1. potable water hose? Half inch, 5/8, or some combination of adapters? And a pressure regulator, but what PSI?

2. Electrical connections? 50 amp is standard, but also adapters for 20 and 30? Someone told me about a Y-adapter that has 20 and 30 feeding in to 50. Are those commercially available?

3. Sewer? What length(s) do you recommend, what connectors, what supports and protectors?

4. Okay, this is not a connector but what do you put under your leveling feet? 2 x 10 PT, or some commercially available plastic grid?

Thanks for all the information.

[Tobys Home]

Ayerpair, Welcome to the RW family. I found that Camping World fit the bill as far as product assortment. We camped every weekend all over the north east with various clubs, so had variations of all the basics. Long hose 5/8 x 50', regulator w/o gauge they never last, good length of sewer hose and one 10/15' for emergency left in the box, multi feature elbow plus rubber donut seal, 50/30 electrical connector, surge protector. As for blocks I use lvl's under mine from old jobs 12 x12 or 10x10 and treated with clear sealer or plastic interlocking blocks. Amount depends on space and what you feel comfortable with. Of course there are many other things that you'll need, plus when on the road you'll be amazed at the ideas that campers have come up with. Plus most camping stores also carry a good assortment of the basics. Have fun

[atom ant]

Ah too fun! Campers-R-Us (Camping World).

Think about storing that stuff too. I've always had a round laundry basket for the cords. non-air tight bags for hoses, etc.

For electric, make sure you have the 50A-30A dogbone adapter, and another adapter to get the 30A down to the standard 20A. Forget the "Y" connector - they can cause some real problems if the campground isn't wired right and most cannot support that configuration. Many campgrounds just pull the 20A off the 30A although they aren't supposed to. It makes the "Y" worthless.

I use a gray hose for the tank flush so I don't mix them up. Also you might consider a brass "Y" with valves to put at the campground faucet so you can add a hose after hooked up, and a elbow to connect at the camper connect to keep the hose from kinking inside that little convenience center. I'm not an expert on regulators because I tossed mine after it plugged and never researched getting an adjustable one.

So many choices on sewer. Of all the things I got, the clear 45 outlet that goes at the sewer connection seems to be the most valuable as you can see the color of water to know when your flush is good. I also use a twist on gate valve at the connection in case one of the other valves fail or works open. I got my last surprise I'm gonna get when removing the cap.

Enjoy! Edited by: atom ant

[Dave&Ginny]

I agree with atom ant....forget the "Y" electrical connectors because they don't work. You will need the 30 amp adapter.

Before you even pick up your trailer go buy a tool box and in the tool box make sure you include a cordless drill, drill bit set, nut driver set for the drill (most of the screws in these trailers are square bit), socket set, duct tape, zip ties, volt meter, a good battery charger, WD40, silicone spray, a small grease gun. I also carry a good portable air compressor that is capable of 150 psi.

Over the years your tool box will grow! And over the nest couple of months you'll be tightning a bunch of loose screws the vibrate out.

I have a 50' electrical cord and in rare occasions I've used all of it. To handle that long cord I bought a hose reel made by MoryRyde which I love. As for jack pads...go to walmart and buy yourself 3 boxes of the stacking yellow or orange pads.

Good luck and I hope to meet you some day on the road

[TexasRider]

Muck Buckets work great for all hoses, septic and water, and they last for ever! pick them up at any feed store.

[atom ant]

By the way, does Redwood still use the storage tube underneath for sewer, or a swing out boom. I've seen both on the internet videos for Redwood. I would make a difference on what connections would actually fit in the storage provided.

[Kevin & Tammy]

Picked mine up in October and it has the storage tube underneath.

[Dave&Ginny]

Originally Posted by atom ant

By the way, does Redwood still use the storage tube underneath for sewer, or a swing out boom. I've seen both on the internet videos for Redwood. I would make a difference on what connections would actually fit in the storage provided.

They don't use the booms anymore. I personally like my boom but I guess some folks didn't. One of these days when I run out of things to buy for the trailer, I'm going to switch mine over to a power pump system.

[spindrift]

Hmmm...my 2013 has the boom. What problems are folks experiencing with the booms?

[ayerpair]

Thanks everyone for the advice! We're picking up our 36 RL in a few weeks, and I want to be ready with at least the basics on day one. I'm already working in the toolbox!

[COLJDM]

We have the boom on our 36FL and I think it is great. Don't understand why RW stopped using the boom. I installed 20' of the semi rigid sewer hose and a gate valve (thanks to Dave, Steve and a host of others that convinced me using the self leveling method on my 2 grey tanks will not cause leaks - works great by the way). When we pull into a site I pull out the hose and make sure it reaches the sewer connection and that is where we park the coach. I think RW should make it an option if they do not want to continue it as a standard item. I am also thinking about the shurflo pump for waste removal. I already have power to the hitch on the rear of the coach and I could slave off of that to power the pump. RW should offer an installed sewer pump as an option or at least provide hook up/electrical capability

[Dave&Ginny]

Originally Posted by spindrift

Hmmm...my 2013 has the boom. What problems are folks experiencing with the booms?

I heard some folks complaining about the length of sewer hose and the type of hose that fits in the tube. I went to Walmart and bought their hose with yellow ears on it. I then took a hack saw and cut those ears off. This way the hose hits into the boom and as long as I can get within about 12 foot of the drain I'm fine. I also bought the extension hose to extend it another 15 ft, that I keep in a sealed container in the basement.

The boom works for me and in most cases, it's very easy to use.

[Tobys Home]

When we picked up our unit last June it was one without a boom. However it did have a storage tube. I had already bought a tube for that purpose and now have two. I know the company has the right to change on the fly and if you are an early preparer you get bit in the wallet. Live and learn

[Dave&Ginny]

Originally Posted by COLJDM

We have the boom on our 36FL and I think it is great. Don't understand why RW stopped using the boom. I installed 20' of the semi rigid sewer hose and a gate valve (thanks to Dave, Steve and a host of others that convinced me using the self leveling method on my 2 grey tanks will not cause leaks - works great by the way). When we pull into a site I pull out the hose and make sure it reaches the sewer connection and that is where we park the coach. I think RW should make it an option if they do not want to continue it as a standard item. I am also thinking about the shurflo pump for waste removal. I already have power to the hitch on the rear of the coach and I could slave off of that to power the pump. RW should offer an installed sewer pump as an option or at least provide hook up/electrical capability

Steve (TravelinAnderson) first came up with this solution, the rest of us just enjoyed his great idea.

[homeguy]

Originally Posted by Dave&Ginny

Steve (TravelinAnderson) first came up with this solution, the rest of us just enjoyed his great idea.

I don't understand this. How would a pump work? Is it better than just opening the valve and letting it flow out?

[COLJDM]

Shurflo and others make a macerator pump that shreds waste and pumps the residue. The discharge hose on this type pump is a 1 inch hose. We purchased one for my Father in Law to use while they camp in NC. The shurflo pump he has attaches to the discharge pipe using the same type connection as a standard sewer hose. The pump has a clean out hose attachment. At his campsite in NC he is 90-100 feet away and downhill from the septic clean out pipe that he uses to dump his waste (black and grey water). The Shurflo pumps the waste water uphill and empties his blackwater tank in 3 minutes or less. Cleaning the pump is easy, just hook up freshwater hose to to the cleanout, run water and pump until clear water runs out the end of the pipe.

[Dave&Ginny]

I want one for use at our home. I already wired a 50 amp RV plug at our house and I also ran a
1 1/4 inch pipe out of our basement for the sewer. The macerator pump will then empty into this line without a problem. They also empty faster and you don't have to worry about all the little ramps to keep thing flowing down hill.

[Buddy]

My dealer gave me most of this stuff, from the power cord, drinking water hose, Rhino sewer hose, Black tank chemical, etc. I would wait and see what they give you, you may save a few bucks.

[spindrift]

Now that's a dealer.

[BradPAjax]

Got the same from our dealer... only got 15 feet of sewer hose... went to Wal-Mart and bought 15 more.