Cracking RV body

[TNTBaker]

I often wonder if "some dealers" use that as an excuse. I have not had to wait on Redwood, and our dealership has not had to wait on Redwood. They have been quick to respond. It seems to be the same old line, "We are waiting on Redwood". I am not sure that's always the case... And yes, definitely the service facility shouldn't have your rig in there at all until they are ready to go. We are waiting on the shipment of replacement awning LEDs and THEN they will make our appointment. They got RW's approval in a couple days. It's the parts that sometimes take longer, but they call and say that parts will arrive on X date and our service appt is booked after that. We are in and out.

ALSO: there is a lot of theft and damage on dealer lots... be careful!!

[Easy201438rl]

Found out today that the "crack" at the "H" under the bedroom slide is not a crack at all...turns out the bottom mount on the Swintek unit has come loose or was always loose and is pushing the side out at the "H" which just happens to be right there. Also, I want to thank several on this forum for their insights on this problem. The factory is involved and dealing with Explore USA, Ft. Worth on my behalf. I may be back in my unit way before the original 6-8 week estimated.

Thanks to all!

[Radio_Flyer]

Didn't want to start another thread on the gelcoat cracking, so re-opened this one for history. Just this past weekend when replacing all the darned channel seals around the slides, I noticed my rig finally got the dreaded crack. It is running at a 45 degree angle toward the front on the street side under the bedroom slide. I used the contact form on the RW page, but just in case, who has done the fix themselves, how is it holding up and did you remove the trim piece to fix it. Also, where did you get the H/T channel? thanks.

[piper guy]

Skip, mine has just started also. Talked to Troy (one of the really good service techs at the Rally) and he said they are no longer using the "H" channel. He said they found that over time it actually put a bit too much side pressure on the laminate. What they are using now is a piece of flat trim like the trim that frames the slide.


They are taking a Dremel with a v-bit and routing just through the outer skin. Then filling the void with an epoxy filler and screwing the trim channel over it. If you cut the trim at the right angle and then paint, it comes out looking like it was made that way.


If you call the Service Center they may be able to send you a scrap piece, you only need about 6-8"

[ChristianM]

Originally Posted by Radio_Flyer

Didn't want to start another thread on the gelcoat cracking, so re-opened this one for history. Just this past weekend when replacing all the darned channel seals around the slides, I noticed my rig finally got the dreaded crack. It is running at a 45 degree angle toward the front on the street side under the bedroom slide. I used the contact form on the RW page, but just in case, who has done the fix themselves, how is it holding up and did you remove the trim piece to fix it. Also, where did you get the H/T channel? thanks.

Skip and Patty,

Glad that you submitted the contact form- someone should be contacting you shortly. If you run into any problems getting answers, please let me know! I'm happy to help in any way I can!

Christian

[Radio_Flyer]

Vaughan thanks for that info. I kept hoping that I wouldn't get the crack, but I think the last trip on some really bad roads did it in. That fix sounds like a better solution. I will have to say that mine came from the pounding of the hitch. I don't have the Trail-air and just the rubber pad. I'll see what RW has to say.

[Radio_Flyer]

Christian thank you. Really the first time i've had to contact RW about my rig, that says good things about Rw. Hope for a good outcome.

[atom ant]

Originally Posted by piper guy

Skip, mine has just started also. Talked to Troy (one of the really good service techs at the Rally) and he said they are no longer using the "H" channel. He said they found that over time it actually put a bit too much side pressure on the laminate. What they are using now is a piece of flat trim like the trim that frames the slide.


They are taking a Dremel with a v-bit and routing just through the outer skin. Then filling the void with an epoxy filler and screwing the trim channel over it. If you cut the trim at the right angle and then paint, it comes out looking like it was made that way.


If you call the Service Center they may be able to send you a scrap piece, you only need about 6-8"

Anybody have a picture?

[piper guy]

Skip ~ I was hoping the same thing but noticed a small crack developing after I got to the Rally. Had Troy look at it while he was replacing some slide seals.


Brad ~ I'm going to have a friend that owns a body shop do it. I'll send some pics as we do the repair.

[Radio_Flyer]

Thanks Vaughan. RW gave me two dealers in the area, one in MD and one in Va that i'm not super confident in. I asked for others and there were two mobile guys in the list.

[piper guy]

Who in Maryland ? To my knowledge Leo's in Gambrills is no longer a dealer.


Are they going to cover it under the 5 year ?

[Radio_Flyer]

I wasn't going to post names, but yeah that is who they gave me in MD. Didn't say if it would be covered, told me " They can send in a warranty claim for review of possible coverage. Thank You." I've had a run in or two with Leo's, not happy with them.

[Radio_Flyer]

Called two mobile techs and they won't touch it and the one RV service center said they couldn't get me in till mid Oct and it would probably take 2-3 weeks. I have some really good epoxy, a dremel and a v-bit, and touch up paint. Can't be that difficult.

[piper guy]

Skip - the other option would be a body shop or anyone that fixes fiberglass boats. A lot of the boat guys are mobile ......
I may go that route just to avoid having to tow her into the city to my buddy's shop.

[Buddy Wallace]

I opted out on the washer and dryer in the slide. The 36 FB and the 38 GK don,t have water lines under the bed or washer and dryers in the slide.

[piper guy]

Buddy ~ that (washer/dryer) doesn't matter at all. The lower left corner of the opening for the bedroom slide is a stress point. It's not a question of if, but when, the crack will start. More it's pulled, more likely the crack will happen. It's not structural, is the same as getting a gel coat crack in a boat. Not a big deal and is relatively easy to fix.

[Buddy Wallace]

Originally Posted by piper guy

Buddy ~ that (washer/dryer) doesn't matter at all. The lower left corner of the opening for the bedroom slide is a stress point. It's not a question of if, but when, the crack will start. More it's pulled, more likely the crack will happen. It's not structural, is the same as getting a gel coat crack in a boat. Not a big deal and is relatively easy to fix.

I was just reflecting on how this forum helped me, a lot of owners had the leaks under the bed, I decided not to get the models because of this problem.

[RomanyLife]

The fix was very easy. We were in a good spot because our lines had NOT broken yet. It became very clear, though, when we got in there that they would have very soon... it was just a design oversight. They forgot to factor in the movement of the 2nd bed slide and the effect on the "stuff" below it!

[Piper Guy's Gal]

Originally Posted by RomanyLife

The fix was very easy. We were in a good spot because our lines had NOT broken yet. It became very clear, though, when we got in there that they would have very soon... it was just a design oversight. They forgot to factor in the movement of the 2nd bed slide and the effect on the "stuff" below it!

Ditto for us. Wonder if that has since been corrected.

[Beechguyjim]

I put the piece of t rail in and sealed it it's never moved after that