Entry door seam - Page 3

RWJSIM2003 · 08-05-2015, 10:37 PM

I noticed out catches on the top left corner sometimes. seems to catch more if the trailer requires more extension on the door side jacks when leveling. If this is a hinge issue I will most likely just replace the hinge on the door. Had to do that on our last RV for a similar issue.

Shane Wood · 08-05-2015, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWJSIM2003

I noticed out catches on the top left corner sometimes. seems to catch more if the trailer requires more extension on the door side jacks when leveling. If this is a hinge issue I will most likely just replace the hinge on the door. Had to do that on our last RV for a similar issue.

I believe after having 2 doors separate the door insert from the frame. that the stiff hinge is helping to cause it to come apart plus poor quality laminating job. Once it starts to separate it then starts catching on the frame top left. Which then causes you to need to slam the door to close it. Mine was never a latch issue. Once you had it closed it would latch properly

rex · 08-08-2015, 05:04 PM

When visiting the dealer for the final brake fix (under warranty) I asked how to adjust the door - It was binding on the upper left edge. I was told the door was broken and couldn't be adjusted anyway. A new door has been ordered but I wonder if that door will be just like the one it's to replace?? Hopefully the thing will survive the trip to Yellowstone, Tetons, Little Bighorn, Glacier and back to CA!
...rex

RomanyLife · 08-08-2015, 06:20 PM

Same problem here, catches on upper left corner. Clearly there is a problem here. Interesting note: When you first OPEN the door, it seems fine, and does not rub in the upper left corner. Then, when trying to CLOSE it, it seems like it's entire alignment has shifted and it won't close. VERY frustrating. I hope they come up with a fix. I cannot be good to keep slamming the door, which we try not to do, but the amount of force you need to use to PULL it closed with the latch is excessive, you REALLY have to pull hard. Let's keep each other up to date on this, and let's also give RW the opportunity to address it, I think they will.

Shane Wood · 08-08-2015, 08:07 PM

The manufactor of the doors has an issue. Not only is the second entrance door i have, fiberglass separating from the outer metal frame. My basement door that lifts up is also separating. The must be using the wrong laminate to stick them together or not enough of it

4happyfeet · 08-08-2015, 08:36 PM

I just had my entry door replaced yesterday. They told me that the door comes with the frame attached and MUST be hung with the door CLOSED. If it is hung with the door open, that allows the frame to move out of alignment. They said that they are making that mistake at the factory. Our new door works perfectly, except for the dent it arrived with and has to be repladed!

Shane Wood · 08-08-2015, 08:42 PM

The door frame being out would only cause the door to bind when closing. The problem I have is the door itself. The outer metal piece that wraps around the door is separating from the inside solid fiberglass skin

atom ant · 08-08-2015, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane Wood

The door frame being out would only cause the door to bind when closing. The problem I have is the door itself. The outer metal piece that wraps around the door is separating from the inside solid fiberglass skin

That doesn't sound good

Shane Wood · 08-08-2015, 08:50 PM

How you make out with your air conditioner

atom ant · 08-08-2015, 08:53 PM

I got so involved with the camera, I haven't been up there yet. Maybe today...

atom ant · 08-09-2015, 01:26 AM

There - whew just finished. For being a bright white roof it sure turns my knees black

Mine were pretty good shape - I posted on the other thread

GTXRAS · 08-10-2015, 03:56 AM

Big Thank you to RW for coming out to the rally and talking to us about our issues, if we had any. Chris and Troy looked at our door at the rally and decided that it needed to be replaced. The frame is also not in right. Now need to figure out when and where to get it done.

Rick

Loving Life · 08-10-2015, 04:35 AM

Bauer put a new lock on our entry door. They also adjusted the plate on the wall to better match the lock. It is working great now!

Char & Steve · 08-11-2015, 03:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTXRAS

Big Thank you to RW for coming out to the rally and talking to us about our issues, if we had any. Chris and Troy looked at our door at the rally and decided that it needed to be replaced. The frame is also not in right. Now need to figure out when and where to get it done.

Rick

I also have to give RW a big thank you for being at the Rally. I had no repairs that needed to be done but I had Brian and Andy stop by my site to look over my entry doors. Same problems listed here with binding and rubbing. Brian gave me some tips on how I may be able to fix myself but Andy agreed that if the fix doesn't work and I am not happy with them that RW will replace the doors. I would rather not have to do this because of the painting but if it has to be done I'll have to do it. Andy did say if there is any chance of bringing it to him at the plant it would be best but I could also have it done by a local dealer. It made us feel pretty good that there was no dealer involved to get the answer!

Steve

GCAKIA · 08-11-2015, 12:18 PM

My wife and I took delivery of a 2015 39 MB over a year ago. One of the first to be delivered. Generally love the RV, but the door has had this same problem of needing to slam it to get it shut. Then needing a small gorilla to get it open.

After trying adjustments, the dealer and RW have agreed to replace the door. We're wondering if the problem has been fixed yet? I'm speaking about the root cause. In other words, if replacing the door is only a short term fix, I'm not interested.

My wife and I live in our RV full time. We are expected to be out of the RV for a full week in order to allow time for the replacement. The big time requirement is the painting. For each color on the door they need a day for drying, taping and painting.

Does replacing the door fix the problem?

4happyfeet · 08-11-2015, 01:01 PM

Gary, we just had my door on our 2015 38RL replaced last Friday. The technician doing the work said that the main problem is that the door MUST be installed in the CLOSED position within the frame. He said if it is hung with the door open (presumably for easier access to the screws holding it in) it will allow the frame to be out of square, causing the problem. My new door works perfectly, except for the dent it arrived with, needing it to be replaced again, lol!

GCAKIA · 08-11-2015, 01:10 PM

Thanks for the quick response. Has anyone had a door replaced which is still working properly after several months?

I saw one of the earlier posts that said they had the same problem re-occur a few months after replacement.

Shane Wood · 08-11-2015, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GCAKIA

My wife and I took delivery of a 2015 39 MB over a year ago. One of the first to be delivered. Generally love the RV, but the door has had this same problem of needing to slam it to get it shut. Then needing a small gorilla to get it open.

After trying adjustments, the dealer and RW have agreed to replace the door. We're wondering if the problem has been fixed yet? I'm speaking about the root cause. In other words, if replacing the door is only a short term fix, I'm not interested.

My wife and I live in our RV full time. We are expected to be out of the RV for a full week in order to allow time for the replacement. The big time requirement is the painting. For each color on the door they need a day for drying, taping and painting.

Does replacing the door fix the problem?

Gary
I have had mine replaced and painted. They can paint the door in one day. Automotive paint which they use drys in 1/2 hour. They mask it. paint one color, wait 20 min remove the tape and then mask and paint the next. The 3 coats of clear coat go on the same day but takes 24hrs to cure. They painted my door and all slides in 2 1/2 days. one person
My new has started seperating 4 mths later and will have to be replaced as i posted earlier. Instead of using an epoxy i have regular silicone coming out between the outer metal and the fiberglass panel

Shane Wood · 08-11-2015, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Char & Steve

I also have to give RW a big thank you for being at the Rally. I had no repairs that needed to be done but I had Brian and Andy stop by my site to look over my entry doors. Same problems listed here with binding and rubbing. Brian gave me some tips on how I may be able to fix myself but Andy agreed that if the fix doesn't work and I am not happy with them that RW will replace the doors. I would rather not have to do this because of the painting but if it has to be done I'll have to do it. Andy did say if there is any chance of bringing it to him at the plant it would be best but I could also have it done by a local dealer. It made us feel pretty good that there was no dealer involved to get the answer!

Steve

Steve
What fix did they suggest you try before replacing it. On mine the way the inner panel is pulling away from the metal frame on the hinge side you would have to remove the door, take the bottom rail off and then try and slide the metal fraome off the inner skin. I have pieces of silicone coming out so i don't know if it is
glued to the frame or not or just siliconed in. once apart It would need to be glued with some type of epoxy and put back together,

GCAKIA · 08-23-2015, 10:59 PM

Important update on doors jamming!

Spoke to a fellow Redwood owner last night (he has a 2015 39MB) who had the same problem as many of us; door jams and won't open or close properly. He told me that replacing the door wouldn't fix the issue. He and 4 other Redwood owners have fixed the same problem by adjusting the level of the RV. They believe it's a problem with the leveling system. On a flat surface, once the leveling system says it's complete, they've jacked up the front right corner and placed a 2" block under the support bar. About 2 hours later he says the problem is fixed. Root cause they believe is an improperly working level system that causes the frame to be slightly crooked. Once the 2" block is added, the RV is more level and therefore the crooked RV and door frame is now straight.

This theory also seems to explain why the condensation from my two AC units only drain on one side of the RV.

Having this fix the door problem for 5 Redwoods seems to build some credibility for the solution.

I'll be checking with the dealer and Redwood about this tomorrow.

Thoughts?

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