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Old 04-10-2019, 05:20 AM   #1
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Entry Door Upper left Catching on Frame

I just purchased a 2015 36RL yesterday from private owner. I just discovered today that the Entry door catches on the upper top left frame which makes it more difficult to open and close. I also notice the laminate attached to metal frame on right hinge side of door flexes. In looking at this website it appears others have had this problem, although I could not find much input on solutions.
Another website suggested using 2x4s on the left and right side of upper frame with a cross 2x4 to put slight pressure allowing frame to stretch slightly. I won’t do this without further research to insure it is a safe option. Thanks for any input, Jack
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Old 04-10-2019, 05:06 PM   #2
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This is a common problem on RW with the Friction Hinges. Many of us had to have our doors replaced because the door would separate from the frame and then cause it to catch and bind. I have had our replaced twice and this last time they replaced with non friction type hinges and we had had no issue in last 2 years. I have not heard of any way to fix the problem other than replacing the door and frame. Then of course it has to be painted to match the outside of the RW.
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Old 04-10-2019, 05:35 PM   #3
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Had the same issue with the original door and the replacement. The non friction hinges fixed the issues for us. You can unscrew one of the hinges from the door, the top and bottom hinges are friction, middle should be non friction. This will lighten the load the on the door. Do it on the door side, not the frame side.

I did fix our original door before the replacement. I am sure the pics are gone from this site and the instructions buried. But I can include them here. if you want the pics, let me know and I can upload them.
*****
I worked on the entry door to see if I could “fix” it.
Went to Lowes and got 4 - ¼ 20 Tee Nuts and 2 - 3 foot ¼ 20
threaded rods. I drilled one hole 31 inches up from the bottom and
another 42 inches up, 5/16 bit. I drilled the holes close the fiberglass so when
tightening I would not just crush the Styrofoam. Our door was separating
the worst around the middle hinge and latch.

The hardest part was getting the threaded rod through to hit the hole on the other side.
I used a 5/16 steel tube to drive through the Styrofoam to make it easier.
After installing the threaded rod with the Tee Nuts finger tight to the frame, I bent the rod so I could hang onto it while tightening the Tee Nuts. I used 90 degree snap ring pliers to tighten the nuts. I could not find a Pin nut wrench small enough.

Got all the play out the frame and tightened it up against the fiberglass panel.
I also removed one each of the top and bottom hinges.

The door now closes like it should, light pressure and it latches.
My wife can open and close it finally.

I did this before we got a new door in 4/2016. The new door had the same problem. Removed 1 of the top and bottom hinge fingers to lighten the load on the door. When we were at the service center after last year’s rally(16), I told them I did not consider the door issue resolved. They had LCI come over and replace the friction hinges with normal non-friction hinges. Now we can call it resolved, sorta. Still does not shut easy.

Rick
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Old 04-10-2019, 05:52 PM   #4
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Original write up with pics is here.

http://www.redwoodowners.com/forums/...y-3374-50.html
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Old 04-10-2019, 06:44 PM   #5
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Thank you so much GTXRAS for the great information. Yes, if you could upload the pics for me that would be awesome. I am awaiting a call from the Redwood Mobile Service guy to see what he thinks about it. I discovered that the owners cannot talk directly to Redwood Service, but must go through Dealer Service. I have owned a 2002 HitchHiker since new with no problems, but this is the new world. I was told by a RV Service friend that there are no rigs now like HitchHiker, but there are nice rigs including the Redwood Series. That is why I bought this one from a private owner. I did not open and close the door while looking and that is why I discovered that after I moved it to my storage facility. Thank you for your help. The door is still workable and not dislodged from the trim so hopefully it can be repaired.
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Old 04-10-2019, 06:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cactusjack View Post
Thank you so much GTXRAS for the great information. Yes, if you could upload the pics for me that would be awesome. I am awaiting a call from the Redwood Mobile Service guy to see what he thinks about it. I discovered that the owners cannot talk directly to Redwood Service, but must go through Dealer Service. I have owned a 2002 HitchHiker since new with no problems, but this is the new world. I was told by a RV Service friend that there are no rigs now like HitchHiker, but there are nice rigs including the Redwood Series. That is why I bought this one from a private owner. I did not open and close the door while looking and that is why I discovered that after I moved it to my storage facility. Thank you for your help. The door is still workable and not dislodged from the trim so hopefully it can be repaired.
Pics here,
http://www.redwoodowners.com/forums/...y-3374-50.html
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Old 04-10-2019, 06:49 PM   #7
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Thank you RWJSIM2003 for the feedback. Hopefully I will not have to replace the door and it can be repaired, although I will still worry. I bought this from a private owner yesterday and did not discover it during my inspections since I never opened or closed the door. Only discovered it when I hooked on and took it to our storage facility and tried to open the door. Some struggles but got it open. The door itself is still solid, but a fix is needed since it rubs on the top left part of the frame itself. I received feedback from GTXRAS on possible solutions and I also have a Redwood Moble Service available if I want them to check it out. The Service tech is suppose to call me back today hopefully. Thanks again and keep thinking positive thoughts for my wife and I regarding the door. After purchasing the rig yesterday, the last thing we need is another large expense. Thanks, Jack
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Old 04-15-2019, 03:44 AM   #8
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Hi again Rick, it has been crazy week moving stuff from our HitchHiker to the Redwood. I wanted to ask you several more questions if you are willing to help me please and thank you so much for the pictures on using 1/4 threaded rod to stiffen the door frame. I am sure I need to do this given that it is still rubbing on the top. I would probably install 4 rods, one at top, one above door handle, one below door handle, and one on bottom. I am seeing the door flex from top to bottom and this seems like the logical answer. I got no where with the service centers here in Arizona since they had not heard of any problems. It must be the water here.

My questions to you are:
1. Do you have suggestions how I can get some of the non-friction hinges?
2. How did they replace yours since it appears the hinges are riveted to the frame?
3. If I am unable to get non-friction hinges, you mentioned removing one from bottom and top of door. Would that not weaken the door structurally and how do you go about removing them?

Sorry for all the questions but I am disparate for solutions given the amount of rubbing and sticking occurring on the upper left corner.
Thanks, Jack
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:33 PM   #9
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Jack,

If we would have kept our original door, I would have added a rod just below the top hinge and above the bottom hinge also. Lazy Dayz in Tuscon replaced our door in Feb 2016 so I am sure nobody I dealt with is still working there. John Sportsman was the SM I dealt with.

1. They are a LCI(Lippert) part. Look on their web site? Or call them?
Used Google and found this.
https://www.google.com/search?source...99.St-n7e5GQB8

2. The RW service center replaced ours. We were not there when they did it. If they are riveted, grinding or drilling the rivets off would be the only way. I guess I would drill, then pry whats left of the hinge off the door and frame. Then punch the rivets out.

3. Maybe, but it seems you need to do something. With the door/screen open, there are 2 hinges on the door, 3 on the frame side. Remove the hinge that is just below the screen hinge on the door side. On the bottom, remove the hinge above the screen door hinge. If your middle hinge is friction, maybe undo that whole hinge from the door and see if that helps. Then shut the door to push the now free hinges to the frame. Ours were held in with screws on the door and rivets on the frame.

Rick
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:38 AM   #10
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Entry Door Hinge Replacement

I have attached Lipperts Instructions for replacing the entry door hinges.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Lippert Entry Door Hinge Replacement.pdf (578.2 KB, 42 views)
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:14 PM   #11
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Thank you so much Rick for all the time you have spent getting me fully educated on this little problem. Your the greatest. Now, hopefully this 75 year old long-time RV’r can tackle this project with a semblance of basic knowledge on what to do. I am going to start with the rods and then may also eliminate the friction hinges and replacing them with non-friction. Binding up a door over the long run cannot be good. Thanks Again, Jack
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:16 PM   #12
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Thank you “Fulltimer” for the link to Lippert. I will add that to the great suggestions from Rick (GTXRAS). Jack
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:10 PM   #13
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Jack,

That is the great thing with this forum, lots of great people willing to help.

The door is filled with Styrofoam, so you will make a mess getting the rods through.

Rick
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Old 04-21-2019, 07:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cactusjack View Post
I just purchased a 2015 36RL yesterday from private owner. I just discovered today that the Entry door catches on the upper top left frame which makes it more difficult to open and close. I also notice the laminate attached to metal frame on right hinge side of door flexes. In looking at this website it appears others have had this problem, although I could not find much input on solutions.
Another website suggested using 2x4s on the left and right side of upper frame with a cross 2x4 to put slight pressure allowing frame to stretch slightly. I won’t do this without further research to insure it is a safe option. Thanks for any input, Jack
Try using WD 40 on the hinges. The friction hinges become so stiff, they bend a little instead of rotating. This bending pushes the door to the latch side causing binding. Worked for me.
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:27 PM   #15
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Thanks

I just wanted to jump in here and say thank you. Our 39MB is in a very remote location in Central Florida. I have been struggling with a door for quite some time. After reading this I was able to make the corrections fairly quickly. Now my wife, granddaughter etc. can easily close the door with two fingers. This thread saved me a bunch of time and effort. Really appreciate the help guys. Thanks again.

Rick
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