Have question regarding the fresh water tank

[sbenhoff]

We are on our maiden voyage of our new 2015 RW 38RL. We're already starting to put together a little list of items that we will need to have the dealer fix.

One of the items on the list I actually found discussed on this forum and it involves a blue hose coming out of the underside that was leaking. I discovered that this is an additional overflow drain for the fresh water. My dilemma is that I can't figure out why it is being filled while I'm hooked up to the "city water connection".

I was able to get the drip to stop by letting out some water from the fresh tank. After running it down from full to about 1/3, I turned the "city water connection" back on and it has slowly started filling it up again. I suspect this overflow hose will be leaking by morning.

Is there something wrong with this rig here, or am I just not doing some correctly?

Steve

[atom ant]

Steve,

There is a check valve on or near the pump that prevents city water from filling the tank. It sounds like that has failed, or there may be some shavings in it from construction.

There is also a manual valve down by the pump (reach in by your water filter door - it is down at the floor). Try closing that to see if the fill stops. That should get you by until the Dealer can look at it, or you if you feel like messing with it you can access all that stuff by pulling down the basement wall exposing the plumbing.

PS - These models are continuously in a state of change - so I can only hope the information I give based on mine holds true for yours - if not, sorry for misleading you! Good luck!

[sbenhoff]

Atom Ant.....thanks for the quick reply. I've read many of your reviews in the short time I've been a part of the Redwood family. Your willingness to share your experiences with all us "newbies" is invaluable.

I'll have to take a look inside to see if I can even see the pump. There is a small opening that is on hinges on the basement wall, but it doesn't really give you much viewing potential. I'm not sure I'm ready to tackle taking down the wall yet to get at it. Since I've only had it for a couple of weeks now, it's probably going back to the dealer. Maybe after I've had it a while and feel a little more comfortable with it, I might branch out and start trying to fix some of this stuff myself. So don't be surprised if you hear from me again in the future.

Steve

[JerryL]

^Take out 8-10 screws on the basement wall, and it comes down easy. About 5 minutes with a screwdriver, and it's down.

[superduty glampers]

Originally Posted by sbenhoff

Atom Ant.....thanks for the quick reply. I've read many of your reviews in the short time I've been a part of the Redwood family. Your willingness to share your experiences with all us "newbies" is invaluable.

I'll have to take a look inside to see if I can even see the pump. There is a small opening that is on hinges on the basement wall, but it doesn't really give you much viewing potential. I'm not sure I'm ready to tackle taking down the wall yet to get at it. Since I've only had it for a couple of weeks now, it's probably going back to the dealer. Maybe after I've had it a while and feel a little more comfortable with it, I might branch out and start trying to fix some of this stuff myself. So don't be surprised if you hear from me again in the future.

Steve

You will be surprised that you can see and reach going through that little door. Yes we are very fortunate to have AA, he knows this stuff!

[atom ant]

Ah shucks, thanks guys

Steve,

This is mine with the panel removed. The 1/4 turn valve is about 4 inches upstream on the line that feeds the pump. If you can reach through and get to it (you should be able to), it will at least stop the backfill. You won't have tank water available until you turn it back on.

[johnboytoo]

Your picture is just what I was about to post...
is the white tube teed just closer to the pump than that valve... and looping up and to the left and then back out toward the convenience center...
is that the antifreeze tube ?

I tried to follow your instructions for winterizing and the antifreeze hose would not suck up any of the pink stuff...
I could here the pump running, but it never picked up anything..

Since we will get our first freeze this week,
me and about 4 others were at the storage area winterizing

I ended up draining everything, running the fresh water tank dry, and just dumping 4 or 5 gallons of the pink antifreeze into the fresh water tank and pumping it thru the system that way...

It does aerate pretty good once it gets close to empty, doesn't it !
Looked like something Starbucks might make

[Dave&Ginny]

#1 open up the water filter housing and empty it...then reinstall the housing
#2 open the low water drains ( located under the trailer) and then open all faucets
#3 turn the valve near the water pump
#4 drain the hot water heater
#5 turn the lever in the service bay marked "hot water by pass"
#6 close the low drain valves and faucets that you opened in #2
#7 take the cap off the winerization line and put it into a gallon of the pink
#8 turn on the water pump (use the switch in the service bay)

I just did mine today and with a washer and ice maker I used 5 gallonsof the pink antifreeze

[Dave&Ginny]

Originally Posted by Dave&Ginny

#1 open up the water filter housing and empty it...then reinstall the housing
#2 open the low water drains ( located under the trailer) and then open all faucets
#3 turn the valve near the water pump
#4 drain the hot water heater
#5 turn the lever in the service bay marked "hot water by pass"
#6 close the low drain valves and faucets that you opened in #2
#7 take the cap off the winerization line and put it into a gallon of the pink
#8 turn on the water pump (use the switch in the service bay)

I just did mine today and with a washer and ice maker I used 5 gallonsof the pink antifreeze

#9 run the pink through all water lines
#10 if you have a ice maker, once the lines are pink....unscrew them and leave them open (after you turn the valve under the sink)

#11 of course remove all food and anything else that mice might enjoy

[atom ant]

Originally Posted by johnboytoo

Your picture is just what I was about to post...
is the white tube teed just closer to the pump than that valve... and looping up and to the left and then back out toward the convenience center...
is that the antifreeze tube ?

I tried to follow your instructions for winterizing and the antifreeze hose would not suck up any of the pink stuff...
I could here the pump running, but it never picked up anything..

Since we will get our first freeze this week,
me and about 4 others were at the storage area winterizing

I ended up draining everything, running the fresh water tank dry, and just dumping 4 or 5 gallons of the pink antifreeze into the fresh water tank and pumping it thru the system that way...

It does aerate pretty good once it gets close to empty, doesn't it !
Looked like something Starbucks might make

John,

Yes that is the antifreeze hose.

Did you open a faucet or low point drain? Sometimes the pump can't pump with air in the line. If you vent it, it will prime within a few seconds.

The only problem with using the fresh water tank is it is a miserable tank to flush to get the antifreeze out in the spring.

[johnboytoo]

Yes I did.... oh well...

[BillEckert]

Make sure to take the water filter out, the antifreeze
Solution reacts with the mesh and plugs it up.

[sbenhoff]

Wow, this is why I really love this site. Not only have I got some great advice on my fresh water tank issue, I've also learned how to winterize my RV. Thanks to all of you.

I do want to get your opinion on winterizing. I live just north of Dallas, TX and in the past, I have only put antifreeze in all my p-traps after blowing out all the water lines in my TT. I've not had any issues over the past 5 years. Should I consider the "full" winterization now that this is a 5th wheel and not a TT? Or is it still simply based on how cold will it get in TX? Thoughts?

Steve

[Dave&Ginny]

The biggest pain for winterizing is removing all the food and anything else that the little critters might like. I can winterize the water system in about 15 minutes.

[Dave&Ginny]

Originally Posted by sbenhoff

Wow, this is why I really love this site. Not only have I got some great advice on my fresh water tank issue, I've also learned how to winterize my RV. Thanks to all of you.

I do want to get your opinion on winterizing. I live just north of Dallas, TX and in the past, I have only put antifreeze in all my p-traps after blowing out all the water lines in my TT. I've not had any issues over the past 5 years. Should I consider the "full" winterization now that this is a 5th wheel and not a TT? Or is it still simply based on how cold will it get in TX? Thoughts?

Steve

There are others on this forum that use compressed air to blow out their water system and it has apparently worked for them. I use the pink antifreeze just because it's so easy to use. Redwood has made it so easy to pump the pink stuff in. The hardest part is removing the water filter.

[atom ant]

I do both, first air then antifreeze. I could get by with air except for the dishwasher and wash machine.

[spindrift]

Originally Posted by sbenhoff

Wow, this is why I really love this site. Not only have I got some great advice on my fresh water tank issue, I've also learned how to winterize my RV. Thanks to all of you.

I do want to get your opinion on winterizing. I live just north of Dallas, TX and in the past, I have only put antifreeze in all my p-traps after blowing out all the water lines in my TT. I've not had any issues over the past 5 years. Should I consider the "full" winterization now that this is a 5th wheel and not a TT? Or is it still simply based on how cold will it get in TX? Thoughts?

Steve

Tomatoe, Tomato...it comes down to personal preference as you'll find folks that are successful doing it either way. Don't ask me why but I've been known to do it both ways at the same time.

[johnboytoo]

I live just SOUTH of dfw and my icemaker water line froze last year while at the dealer that said they winterized and made a quite a mess...

on our 38gk, this line runs OUTSIDE the rv under the galley slide and is not well insulated.

thus I winterize as this week it's supposed to freeze

[TNTBaker]

We have found (like everyone else) that a combination of draining the water lines, removing water filters, opening all cupboard doors with plumbing inside and making SURE it stays heated above 45 degrees works fine for us. In 15 years, (knock on wood) we have never had a problem. We have always had RV's with a heated belly so that heat is circulated underneath, but most are like that now. You DO have to be vigilant on the heat... oh, and hanging the desiccant bags (I love the damp-rid products) is invaluable to keep the moisture down. We turn on a circular fan inside too, to move the air out of corners to avoid mildew. We live in the Pacific Northwest where it rains nearly all winter, so we have to be careful about moisture. It's different for everybody. The Redwoods have so many systems that use water (dishwashers, washers, icemakers, etc) I frankly would be afraid NOT to keep it above freezing in there. That's a LOT of pink stuff!!

[sbenhoff]

Originally Posted by atom ant

Ah shucks, thanks guys

Steve,

This is mine with the panel removed. The 1/4 turn valve is about 4 inches upstream on the line that feeds the pump. If you can reach through and get to it (you should be able to), it will at least stop the backfill. You won't have tank water available until you turn it back on.

AA,

I found the valve you were referring to and it was easy to spot once I put my head in there. I decided to not take down the wall yet, as it doesn't appear to be necessary at this point.

Once I shut this valve off, no more water will go to the fresh water tank and it will need to stay off if I'm going to winterize using your method. Is that correct?

Steve