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07-19-2016, 08:21 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 66
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Main awning piston/strut replacement
I just recently discovered one of my main arms for the awning is not going out. However, the right arm is extending and the awning on that side is rolling out. In looking at the piston/strut (or whatever you call it), it appears that it is no longer pushing out. Perhaps all the oil has leaked out of it?
I did a search for any previous discussions, but didn't have much luck on finding one related to my issue.
I've contacted Tiara RV to see how much one of those costs, since this may be coming out of my own pocket, though still under warranty.
Has anyone replaced one and can tell me how you go about changing it out? It appears that the pins holding it on are rivets.
Any advice/suggestions anyone could share with me would be appreciated.
Steve
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07-20-2016, 04:04 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,353
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Steve, I had to replace last year, here is the part # , a picture of the ends, both ends are threaded on the pin in the awning arm. Once you get the strut it's about a 5 minute job.
0411151121.jpg
Hope Tiara helps, I had a hard time locating them so I ordered 2 & replaced both & kept the old one as a spare.
__________________
Danny & Linda
Full-timed 10+ years
Former '13 FB owner
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Currently rv & truckless
Replacement undetermined
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07-20-2016, 02:56 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,054
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I think gas struts can be found a lot of places --- just have to match up length, ends, and strength (in our 38gk's place higher strength would have been great it was so slow!)
https://www.amazon.com/Carefree-R001.../dp/B00C5SV2I4
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...5+lb+gas+strut
__________________
Ours: '11 Monaco Diplomat 43DFT followed closely by '14 Jeep 4 dr Wrangler.
Hers: '13 Explorer Sport - AWD 365hp twin turbo scooter!
Previous: '13 Ford F350 CC Platinum and '13 38GK
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07-20-2016, 04:46 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 66
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Thanks guys for the information. I was able to find the R001252 at Amazon.com and have taken your advice and bought two of them.
I did contact Carefree of Colorado to compare prices and verify the item for my particular awning. Evidently, there is a difference between the "Traveler" and the "Eclipse" awning. This model #R001252 is for the "Traveler". Surprisingly, they were about $20 more if I ordered it directly from them and that didn't even include taxes.
So when I get them and try to install them, do I do it with the awning out or just enough in order to reach the piston? Also, any trick on backing out the threaded part on the pin?
Thanks again for the information. The price I'm paying for 2 pistons is what I would have had to pay for a service call to have a RV tech come out and replace it.
It's just a shame that I'm already having to replace this item after such minimal use of the awning.
Steve
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07-20-2016, 04:54 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbenhoff
Thanks guys for the information. I was able to find the R001252 at Amazon.com and have taken your advice and bought two of them.
I did contact Carefree of Colorado to compare prices and verify the item for my particular awning. Evidently, there is a difference between the "Traveler" and the "Eclipse" awning. This model #R001252 is for the "Traveler". Surprisingly, they were about $20 more if I ordered it directly from them and that didn't even include taxes.
So when I get them and try to install them, do I do it with the awning out or just enough in order to reach the piston? Also, any trick on backing out the threaded part on the pin?
Thanks again for the information. The price I'm paying for 2 pistons is what I would have had to pay for a service call to have a RV tech come out and replace it.
It's just a shame that I'm already having to replace this item after such minimal use of the awning.
Steve
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I think that is how the RV industry rolls. Make a bunch of $4!+ that has to be replaced every couple of years by a "professional"
__________________
2013 Redwood 36RL. 2005 Dodge 3500 DRW 4X4. 6 speed manual transmission. South Bend dual disc clutch.
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07-20-2016, 06:38 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,353
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Steve, I carefully used a pair of channel lock pliers as close to the ends as poossible to unscrew both ends, trying not to mar them up, they weren't overly tight on mine.
__________________
Danny & Linda
Full-timed 10+ years
Former '13 FB owner
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Currently rv & truckless
Replacement undetermined
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07-25-2016, 04:11 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 66
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I wanted to share some information regarding my recent fix of my awning pistons. It was definitely an easy fix, but I discovered you want to make sure your awning arms are extended to the maximum in order to install the pistons. I had a slight pitch on my awning and it was difficult to pull in the piston since they have 85#'s of resistance. In hind-sight, I should have taken out the pitch, which would have extended it enough so I would not have had to pull it in to install it.
Just an fyi in case someone else needs some assistance on how to install. Thanks again to all of you for your help.
Steve
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07-25-2016, 04:21 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbenhoff
I wanted to share some information regarding my recent fix of my awning pistons. It was definitely an easy fix, but I discovered you want to make sure your awning arms are extended to the maximum in order to install the pistons. I had a slight pitch on my awning and it was difficult to pull in the piston since they have 85#'s of resistance. In hind-sight, I should have taken out the pitch, which would have extended it enough so I would not have had to pull it in to install it.
Just an fyi in case someone else needs some assistance on how to install. Thanks again to all of you for your help.
Steve
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Glad to hear you got it fixed without much difficulty!
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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07-26-2016, 10:31 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 215
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So I'm having issues on my awning retracting if I fully extend it it won't come back unless you help it pushing down the retractable arms. The mobile service guy said the motor was probably bad. Has anyone replaced this motor?
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Lorenz & Bailey + Karter J and Tristan Alexander and our German shepherd Capone in our 2013 36FL
Pulled by 2020 F350 SRW Curt 24K 🙄 stackable W/D vented- wet bolt kit + 17.5
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07-26-2016, 02:41 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaidocl
So I'm having issues on my awning retracting if I fully extend it it won't come back unless you help it pushing down the retractable arms. The mobile service guy said the motor was probably bad. Has anyone replaced this motor?
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If the awning goes out, but doesn't come back in, I'd lubricate the slide channels first, second...replace the struts.
__________________
2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff
2013 36FL
Cindy and Tom, Toby and Kasey (our Berner and Newfie)
Oh...I forgot the five kids.
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07-26-2016, 02:50 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaidocl
So I'm having issues on my awning retracting if I fully extend it it won't come back unless you help it pushing down the retractable arms. The mobile service guy said the motor was probably bad. Has anyone replaced this motor?
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I remember that this issue was discussed in previous posts. If I remember right, many found out that the wiring to the motor was inadequate causing a drop in power to the motor. I would try the lube first then go to the motor input.
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Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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07-26-2016, 03:29 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,986
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Also see if the installer at the factory removed the cotter pin that is put in for shipping. Odds are they did not. Causes the motor to run slow and puts extra load on it.
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Vaughan & Tracy 2013 RW 36RL, 2013 F350 DRW CC, 2016 Focus. MorRyde IS, MorRyde pinbox, disc brakes, Comfort Ride Hitch. "Life is to be embraced, Grab it with both arms ! "
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07-26-2016, 03:36 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper guy
Also see if the installer at the factory removed the cotter pin that is put in for shipping. Odds are they did not. Causes the motor to run slow and puts extra load on it.
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Wow, I've not heard this before. Exactly where is this cotter pin located? I think I need to check mine. The only time I used mine, it retracted very slow, almost to the point where I felt like It wasn't going to make it. That's why I rarely use it.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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07-26-2016, 04:58 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,811
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On each end of the Awning roller tube, on the top side. Extend the awning, get on a ladder and look at the top of the black plastic enclosure and you should see the cotter pin's head, pulls straight out pretty easy.
Or if all else, you can read the Carefree instructions where it tells you to remove the cotter pin once the awning is installed.
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Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD Crew Cab High Country DRW, D/A, 2016 RW39MB, Dual ACs, Auto Level, Auto Sat Dish, Stack W/D, King Sleep #, 17.5" Sailuns w/Disc, MORryde IS & Pin, Comfort Ride Hitch, 5.5 Onan, Res Fridge & Induction Cook Top
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07-26-2016, 06:07 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,353
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I'd lubricate all joints & try it, if that didn't work try the struts, they act like a shock absorber in the wind & lime a door closer when retracting the awning, if 1 or both are weak it won't want to close. I think the motor would be the last to replace, but while your up removing the cotter pins may as well take a Phillips screwdriver, remove the plastic cover & lube the motors & idlers on the opposite end.
__________________
Danny & Linda
Full-timed 10+ years
Former '13 FB owner
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Currently rv & truckless
Replacement undetermined
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08-01-2016, 09:26 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 19
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That is another part that had to be replaced on my bran new Sequoia, and the tech said they never go bad (yeah right) and he never replaced them before, and seeing that I had to help him, and figure out how to do it for him, I came to the conclusion that I need a new tech!!
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08-02-2016, 12:04 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 215
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maybe there is a few things I forgot to mention on my comment.
#1 I did take off the black plastic around the motor and also found allen head screw that seem to be loose to me.. so went and got the tool and tighten it. that made it so much worse.. soonest I loosen it back up worked again but not fast!
(haven't looked for cotter pins yet.
also when retracting you can see the motor wobble more then it used to.
__________________
Lorenz & Bailey + Karter J and Tristan Alexander and our German shepherd Capone in our 2013 36FL
Pulled by 2020 F350 SRW Curt 24K 🙄 stackable W/D vented- wet bolt kit + 17.5
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07-21-2018, 01:50 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin' texans
Steve, I carefully used a pair of channel lock pliers as close to the ends as poossible to unscrew both ends, trying not to mar them up, they weren't overly tight on mine.
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Danny or Steve... I'm going to replace the two gas shocks on my rear awning. I've read the instructions in the Carefree manual for the replacement, but was just trying to confirm you are leaving the pins in at the track and joint that hold the shock and just unscrewing the shock from the silver eye at the end of it? My shock came with new eyes on either end. Seems like an easier fix to just pull the two pins and put the new shock in?? Did you just use the eyes from the shock? Hope this makes sense to you? I attached a photo of the eye on my new shock?
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Living the Dream in our 2015 38RL: 1600 watts solar, 800 ah lithium, slide in slide, residential refer, washer/dryer, Moryde 8K, H rated tires, Kodiak disc brakes, Drainmaster system, SeeLevel II
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07-21-2018, 04:23 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,353
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On mine that pin your talking about is like a long rivet & a bolt to replace it wouldn't let the arms interlock, much easier to unscrew the eyes, replaced both struts in about 5 minutes once I figured it out.
__________________
Danny & Linda
Full-timed 10+ years
Former '13 FB owner
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Currently rv & truckless
Replacement undetermined
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07-27-2018, 01:22 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 190
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We were at the Rally last week and had the RW techs look at our slide awning that would not retract most times without help. They replaced the motor, but still is slow. Good news it does retract, and got this done for free along with some work on the main slides. Our first Rally...great fun!
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Ken & Patty
2015 38GK Onan DW W-D Disks MorRyde IS & Pin-box Trav'ler 2015 GMC Denali 3500HD DRW Duramax
"Who lives sees much; Who travels sees more!"
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