Main Slides start and stop

[LoSt]

I'm in a 2015 36FB and have been traveling for about six months each year. Over the past month we have had trouble with our main slides. They start and run a foot or two out and then stop. After a few seconds of pause we restart them and they get another foot or so and stop again. I believe that we have the Lippert Electric Through Frame System. Does anyone have experience with this type of probme with electric slides?

[mhs4771]

Follow the Hot lead from the Hydraulic pump motor down to the Auto-Reset Breaker and replace said breaker with an 80 amp breaker.
This has been an ongoing issue for over 10 years. Lippert has a paper out about it, but I don't have a copy.

[LoSt]

I saw your earlier post on the 80amp Auto-reset Breaker. Since I only got manuals for electric slides on the two main slides I wasn't sure if this applied. I don't see any hydraulics connected to the main slides but of course, I can't see the motor and actuators either. I'll follow your advice since I now have the same start/stop issue with my Level Up system!!

[piper guy]

Unless you've got something that none of us have seen, your main slides are hydraulic and work off the same pump and system as the level up. I would do as Michelle suggests. Go onto the battery compartment and trace the power lead back from the pump motor and replace the relay with an 80 amp one.

To my knowledge, Redwood never built electric main slides.

[XCMARK]

Level up and he large two sided slide use the hydrolic pump on my redwood RL 38. I agree with everyone its the breaker inline with the pump. Mine will do the same thing if its cold out , never been a problem if its warm. Also you may want to make sure you have shore power when moving the slides (with the converter on) . low voltage from the batterys is often a issue. If your dry camping you can use the truck 12vdc power with it running to help keep the batterys up to full charge. its also possible if you have the inverter running the coach battery are low after a long drive.

[xtasee]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

Follow the Hot lead from the Hydraulic pump motor down to the Auto-Reset Breaker and replace said breaker with an 80 amp breaker.
This has been an ongoing issue for over 10 years. Lippert has a paper out about it, but I don't have a copy.

Any chance you have a link to purchase the 80 amp breaker?

[r time soon]

I am not seeing an auto re settable type in the 80 amp size. The 50 amp is a Bussmann CBP 50BA. Could be that the connections are not tight and/or the breaker is weak. Replacing with another 50 amp might help.

[mhs4771]

Amazon:
Bussmann CB185-80 Waterproof High Amp Flush Mount Type III (3) Circuit Breaker (80 Amp), 1 Pack
by Bussmann
$24.17
You will probably have to enlarge the cable lugs to fit the terminals on the larger breaker.
Just did this mod to a neighbors Montana who was having the same issue.

[Jim & Mary]

M & A

You are tremendous. What great help you are. Thanks from all of us. We're lucky to have you in our Redwooder group.

Jim

[Blenhardt]

Looks like this is a manual reset breaker???

[markw]

I replaced mine several years ago with the same size 50 amps, and haven't had anymore problems.

Mark

[LoSt]

Thanks so much for all of the input. It sounds like our Senior Members have a great deal of experience and I'm not sure what I would do without the quick responses. I have a replacement breaker on it's way.

[travelin' texans]

Originally Posted by LoSt

Thanks so much for all of the input. It sounds like our Senior Members have a great deal of experience and I'm not sure what I would do without the quick responses. I have a replacement breaker on it's way.

Just curious! What's the toggle switch for in that mess of wires?

[LoSt]

That toggle switch is my latest project. I just added tire sensors on all the 5r tires. The booster is temporarily wired in the battery compartment with the toggle to shut it down while in storage. I'll permanently mount it in the next month or so.

[wintertree]

Hello Everyone.....I believe the following part #'s are for the Auto Reset breakers you are looking for
CB181F-60 (60 amp)

CB181F-70 (70 amp)

CB181F-80 (80 amp)

I did find the paper from Lippert on the issue and they do recommend replacing the breaker and also state to go to a higher amp than the original 50 amp...

Wes

[XCMARK]

I just replaced the two 30amp breakers with (2)40amp breaker. This cured my breaker tripping when I ran the level up or main slide in cold weather. Fairly easy job took about 1 hour . todays temps when I started the job are +20*f and it would trip about every 20 seconds.

[LoSt]

Thanks again to everyone that commented on this post. I have learned a lot while tracing wires and measuring voltages. I did want to post the unusual fix to this problem so another newbee can look for this as well.
The fourth breaker from the left is the slide breaker that we thought was the problem. It was cycling when the slide stopped with high spikes in current as expected. While running tests and removing the wiring from the Auto-reset breaker for the slide, I noticed that the fourth and fifth breakers were wired in parallel. The fifth breaker from the left has no wire connected to the lower lug but since there is a copper jumper I decided to check the nut. It was LOOSE, touching but not snug, so I tightened it. Before replacing the slide breaker I tested the slides and happily they worked well and much faster than they have in some time!!
After doing a little more research I learned that a loose connection can induce a resistance load that will draw additional current during peak loads. Apparently that additional current was enough to trip the breaker. The slide manuafacturers customer service line confirmed that loose battery connections are a common problem with slide failures. So, in the future I'll be tightening all connections, even if not on the faulty breaker, before replacing any parts.

[Blenhardt]

I recently had the same problem. After tightening the nut all is well with the slides and jacks where in the past they would start and stop.

[xtasee]

I still seem to have an issue with some kind of by-pass letting the street side come out when raising the jacks. Also the curb side will not come in most times unless you let the system rest for awhile. This weekend it would not come in at all and you can hear the motor still spinning. When opening, everything goes out very slowly.

If I manually shut the valve off on one side, then the other, everything closes fast and positive and remains closed.

I remember one time someone suggested a ram that may be by-passing but with them working so well one side at a time, does it not point to something else in the system? Could it be the manual valve? Is there another valve near the pump that could be by-passing?

I would take this to my dealer but I know they will throw parts at it for a while.

BTW I did wire the pump direct to the battery with the 80 amp breaker taking it off the electrical buss.

[LoSt]

This sounds like it will take some serious troubleshooting. Nothing seems obvious so I thought I would add this manual, just in case you don't have it yet. Sorry I couldn't help more on this problem.