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03-03-2015, 05:04 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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No heat in bedroom, again.
Good morning everyone,
We have had our new RW for just over a month. We live full time in a cold climate using the fireplace, furnace and a small basement heater.
After the first week of living we noticed there was no heat coming from the master bedroom register. Living room registers were and are working fine. I removed the basement wall and noticed the flexible heating hose and connector had fallen off. all that secures them to the heater vent is very sticky foil ducting tape.
I was able to squeeze my economy size frame up in the area and re-secured the tubing and mount back onto the duct using the same type of foil tape the manufacture used. Tested, all was working well, had great heat flow thru all of the registers. Buttoned up basement walls and thought problem was solved.
Sunday evening we got back to the trailer and my wife noticed that the bedroom was not a warm as the rest of the trailer. So the first place I went was the heat register in the bedroom. Again, NO HEAT!
I went out to the basement and shined my lite thru the water filter access door and wouldn't you know it, there was the same hoses laying on the floor. It came of again exactly like before but I even added extra foil tape to secure them up there.
Now for the question. Is there a better tape to secure theses hose up to the heater duct? Or has anyone had this problem and designed something better?
Its not hard to access the area, its just a pain to try and fix in the middle of winter. I would have thought that the factory would have been smarter than this thinking tape would keep all this up on the ceiling.
There is always a better way, I think.
Any comments, help or suggestions?
__________________
Rob & Jenn
2003 Dodge 3500 DRW Long Bed w/ 5.9 HO Cummins, Auto, 4x4. PAC Exhaust brake
2015 Redwood RW39MB 17.5 Sailuns w/Sumec wheels
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03-03-2015, 06:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 307
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Can you squeeze in there again and try using a round duct clamp similar to the one used on a dryer vent hose(s) ? Also saw a commercial for a product called "Gorilla Tape" which is suppost to have super holding power. Any way to snap a pic. so we can see ? Darn shame to spend big $$$ on a new 5er and have something as frustrating as this occur because of sloppy quality control. I just saw a video of another manufacturer producing their 5th wheels and it looked like the technicians were scurrying around at record speed to keep up with the production line. How can you put out a quality unit without taking your time & doing things properly ? My new 39MB is on order & I'm just keeping my fingers crossed.
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Mike & Gayle
Our 3 fur children "Ting-Tang"&"Saylor"(Shih Tsu's) &"Kai" (Finnish Spitz)
2007 Silverado Classic 3500 LT C.C. Longbed Dually,
Duramax, Allison Tranny, 62 Gal. Titan Tank
2016 39MB 5.5 Onan, Residential Package, Goodyear G114's, Mor/ryde heavy duty Shackle/bushing upgrade.
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03-03-2015, 06:51 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 448
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I had the same problems and think my bedroom one has fallen off again. It is a cheap way to do it. I have a spool of gorilla tape going to try in a week or two. I used some screws but they apparently didn't hold.
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Skip & Patty
2013 Redwood 36RL
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CC DRW 4x4 (Bertha)
USN Retired
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03-03-2015, 06:58 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosey
.... the technicians.....
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Boy, you're being charitable - 'piece work assemblers' is a more accurate label !
but in defense of the tape....
even the home heating systems use the foil tape, but maybe the surfaces are cleaned better and don't move as much as our moving earthquakes
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...l+heating+tape
__________________
Ours: '11 Monaco Diplomat 43DFT followed closely by '14 Jeep 4 dr Wrangler.
Hers: '13 Explorer Sport - AWD 365hp twin turbo scooter!
Previous: '13 Ford F350 CC Platinum and '13 38GK
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03-03-2015, 08:21 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,136
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I believe that Dave said they were "rolling earthquakes". Dave can you resolve this controversy?
__________________
Mike & Pam '12 36RL, Kodiak Discs, 17.5" G114s H-Rated, SRE4000 w/HD Shackles, Joy Rider Shocks, Flex Air, 5.5 Onan, W&D, DW, 4 Scare Lights, (2) 6V Trojan T-145s; Progressive EMS-HW50C, Winegard DTV Sat, Sony/Denon 4K Home Theater, WiFiRanger EliteAC Pack, weBoost 4G-X Cell Booster.
2022 RAM 3500 Limited CC, LB, 4x4, DRW, Max Tow, Cummins HO, AISIN, 4.10, Mopar 30K w/OEM Prep, Transfer Flow 70gal Aux Tank/Toolbox.
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03-03-2015, 08:30 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 747
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There should be a mechanical fastener to secure heat duct hose to the duct work. Either a few screws and then foil tape it or a large dryer vent sized hose clamp and then foil tape it. Code I believe. Most metal pieces come from the factories with a slight amount of oil on them. If not cleaned before taping I am sure they will keep falling down.
Chris
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03-03-2015, 08:48 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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There is a tape out there specific for flexible duct (Home Depot). Foil tape is not the best for flexible.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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03-03-2015, 09:35 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 747
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A mechanical fastener must be used. ANSI 119.2 Which is RVIA code. Page H-92 5.7.3
Secure it then tape it!!!
Chris
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03-03-2015, 09:39 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,986
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I secured the duct to the bottom flare of the register with a screw, taped it with duct tape and then took some of the zip ties with an end for a mounting screw and supported the duct so it couldn't fall down.
That was 2 years ago and so far so good. I'm going to be in the basement in a few weeks chasing a water pressure issue and am planning on adding some storage and re-doing the back walls. Going to do some "straightening up" while I'm in there. Wiring and plumbing look like a rats nest and bugs me.
__________________
Vaughan & Tracy 2013 RW 36RL, 2013 F350 DRW CC, 2016 Focus. MorRyde IS, MorRyde pinbox, disc brakes, Comfort Ride Hitch. "Life is to be embraced, Grab it with both arms ! "
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03-03-2015, 10:48 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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Thanks guys for all of the suggestions. The hose itself is staying secure to the piece that actually mounts to the duct. Its the mount piece that wont stay up.
I'm going to try the gorilla tape and some mechanical fasteners plus secure the hoses so there isn't as much downward force pulling from the hoses.
I'm with you PG , that basement plumbing and electrical is a rats nest and needs to be cleaned up for sure. A little wood frame or something to secure the heating mount would be a very nice thing to avoid this issue from happening to others.
__________________
Rob & Jenn
2003 Dodge 3500 DRW Long Bed w/ 5.9 HO Cummins, Auto, 4x4. PAC Exhaust brake
2015 Redwood RW39MB 17.5 Sailuns w/Sumec wheels
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03-03-2015, 11:07 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 747
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If the base won't stay connected to the part that mounts the hose, why not take down that base, re-flare the duct piece to the mount piece by bending or tapping with a hammer to make it large enough to stay connected?? It would be worth a try.
Chris
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03-03-2015, 11:46 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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Good idea Chris, I'm willing to try anything. Just want to keep the heat flowing into the bedroom. A warm wife is a happy wife.
__________________
Rob & Jenn
2003 Dodge 3500 DRW Long Bed w/ 5.9 HO Cummins, Auto, 4x4. PAC Exhaust brake
2015 Redwood RW39MB 17.5 Sailuns w/Sumec wheels
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03-04-2015, 12:13 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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This has been an issue for many Redwood owners. For some reason it always seems to be the bedroom vent. Mine was that way from the factory. Took it back to Explore USA and they re-taped it, lasted about a week. Fixed It myself, used screws to secure the mount back to the floor vent then re-taped myself with heavy aluminum tape. That was 2 years ago and so far so good.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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03-04-2015, 12:46 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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Thanks. Yes,the living room vents work great, just the bedroom is the problem. I'm going to do just that...after it stops snowing. The floor duct looks like its made out of some kind of foam. What kind of screws did you use to secure the mount back up? Ive got some grabber screws, the kind you would us to hang drywall up. Would they work OK?
__________________
Rob & Jenn
2003 Dodge 3500 DRW Long Bed w/ 5.9 HO Cummins, Auto, 4x4. PAC Exhaust brake
2015 Redwood RW39MB 17.5 Sailuns w/Sumec wheels
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03-04-2015, 01:03 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PsychoBob65
Thanks. Yes,the living room vents work great, just the bedroom is the problem. I'm going to do just that...after it stops snowing. The floor duct looks like its made out of some kind of foam. What kind of screws did you use to secure the mount back up? Ive got some grabber screws, the kind you would us to hang drywall up. Would they work OK?
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It's been so long ago that I can't remember exactly whether I used a wood screw or a sheet metal screw. It seems to me that I screwed the metal duct adapter back up to a metal piece of the vent. It seems like I wasn't able to screw it on all 4 sides but I was able to get it on at least 1 or 2 sides. With the heavy aluminum tape, that seemed to be enough to keep it up there. You need to take all the existing tape off of that adapter so you can start over and see what you have to work with.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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03-04-2015, 01:13 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,032
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I had the same problem with mine. I thought I could screw it on but the square duct is made of a heavy stir foam and will not hold screws. I ended up retaping with aluminum tape and a used a couple ty wraps to help hold it. Have not had any problems since but also have not hauled it any where since.
Just another one of the minor repairs done
__________________
2015 36RL pushing a 2015 Denali
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03-04-2015, 02:24 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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Thanks again everyone. I'll give it try. With all of the good ideas Ive been given something has got to work.
__________________
Rob & Jenn
2003 Dodge 3500 DRW Long Bed w/ 5.9 HO Cummins, Auto, 4x4. PAC Exhaust brake
2015 Redwood RW39MB 17.5 Sailuns w/Sumec wheels
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03-04-2015, 03:55 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PsychoBob65
Thanks again everyone. I'll give it try. With all of the good ideas Ive been given something has got to work.
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I can just about guarantee you if you take It to a dealer, they will put it up just like the factory. You can take the time to figure out a solution instead of just a quick fix. Let your imagine run wild when you try to solve these issues.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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03-04-2015, 05:12 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,353
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Not much there to secure screws to other than plastic duct. I cut 3 pieces of 1/2" aluminum strap to run between floor joists & put one on either end of duct flange & 1 between the 2 flex ducts & attached both ends with self tapping screws. Fixed once & done. I don't care what tape you use, once heated with ducts hanging it won't hold.
__________________
Danny & Linda
Full-timed 10+ years
Former '13 FB owner
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Currently rv & truckless
Replacement undetermined
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03-04-2015, 06:04 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 119
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I like that idea of securing some horizontal strap outside and between the duct mount then tape for a finish seal. Thanks.
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