Now I'm mad....

johnboytoo · 07-08-2014, 02:37 AM

The non cutoff battery disconnect has been an annoyance up to now,
but tonight I am hotter than the temps here in Texas...

Went to go get the rw out of storage and nothing works !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hooked up the truck and high idled for 20 minutes, nothing !!

ran back home to get my adapters and plugged it in for 20 minutes - nada !!!

How in the hell are you supposed to get the jacks up without power !!!

Last straw I'm telling you !!!

Blue Dogs · 07-08-2014, 02:55 AM

You should be able to lift jacks with just your truck hooked up, sounds like some sort of fuse or main breaker but it's on 2 systems one 12 volt one 115 running the charger. The batteries must be toast to keep all function from working. Maybe there is a shorted battery? Sorry to hear you have another problem!

**Dave&Ginny** · 07-08-2014, 02:59 AM

I think there's another problem somewhere too. Like Blue Dogs said, with the truck hooked up you should be getting juice to the pump.

Dro67 · 07-08-2014, 03:07 AM

Ours did the same thing! Taking it back to Explore to see what kind of batteries we have! Don't think it's the 31s we're supposed to have. Not taking it until we get back from a planned trip later this month though. Don't want them to keep it a month to change out the batteries !

BradPAjax · 07-08-2014, 03:38 AM

Guess what... had that problem since the day I picked mine up at the dealer in May 2012. Had it in to fix the leak in the galley seal and fix a "hole" in my shower pan this May as part of my annual inspection. Unit was at the dealer in the shop for over a week. Picked it up after it sat outside for 3 days and the batteries were flat as a pancake. Hooked up truck and nothing. Dealer wheeled out a jump cart to get me of their lot. Towed it home for 2 hours and barely had the juice to get it off the truck. Disconnected the batteries from the trailer and hooked up a solar panel and slow charger combo to get batteries back up. Even with the main disconnect off something is draining these batteries. I would rewire it if I didn't have the warranty.

ksaltman · 07-08-2014, 03:50 AM

My house battery was also flat after only 3 days of running the Norcold RV fridge on LP.

I expected on LP with nothing else running I should get many days of fridge use from the house battery, but apparently not. Opened up the battery case to look at the battery and its totally generic. No label nothing saying what it is.

RW confirmed that its a Worldwide Battery, group 27 with a part # 29389, but I can't find any info on the battery.

I am going to call Worldwide Batteries tomorrow and see if they can shed some light. Also going to call Norcold and ask what type of load the fridge on LP uses to get an idea what to expect. Will post anything I find out.

Also, does anyone know of a reasonable 12V amp meter I can get?

Foxfire · 07-08-2014, 04:14 AM

My unit came into the dealer mid February. We did the PDI inside all hooked up. When done they towed it outside where it sat until April 4th. During those six weeks we came and loaded gear and turned on lights. I know they showed the unit while it was on their lot, also turning on lights maybe operating systems. When we got there it had plenty of power to raise the jacks setup to tow and get out of there. I'm curious too what's the draw on the batteries when out of service.

lwg · 07-08-2014, 04:32 AM

Redwood should put a small 30 watt trickle charger on these. That would more or less solve this problem. My parents have a 24 foot travel trailer and it has this as a factory option.

Oriana · 07-08-2014, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnboytoo

The non cutoff battery disconnect has been an annoyance up to now,
but tonight I am hotter than the temps here in Texas...

Went to go get the rw out of storage and nothing works !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hooked up the truck and high idled for 20 minutes, nothing !!

ran back home to get my adapters and plugged it in for 20 minutes - nada !!!

How in the hell are you supposed to get the jacks up without power !!!

Last straw I'm telling you !!!

Johnboy - I had exactly the same problem when the coach was sitting in front of the house before heading South in January. Was hooked up to the truck for almost an hour and no power.

You can raise the front jacks with an electric drill and hex bit to operate the pump. The manual valve for the front jacks is in one of the propane compartments at the top of the jack. It requires an Allen Key to open.

I eventually found the problem with the cable from the truck was some mud blocking a couple of the pins.

Caribe77 · 07-08-2014, 06:25 AM

This happened to us during the PDI earlier this year. The tech reset a breaker via a small button on top of the fuse block. It is very small. You have to look to find it. Don't know whether this is your problem, but you might check it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnboytoo

The non cutoff battery disconnect has been an annoyance up to now,
but tonight I am hotter than the temps here in Texas...

Went to go get the rw out of storage and nothing works !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hooked up the truck and high idled for 20 minutes, nothing !!

ran back home to get my adapters and plugged it in for 20 minutes - nada !!!

How in the hell are you supposed to get the jacks up without power !!!

Last straw I'm telling you !!!

0nTheRoad · 07-08-2014, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caribe77

This happened to us during the PDI earlier this year. The tech reset a breaker via a small button on top of the fuse block. It is very small. You have to look to find it. Don't know whether this is your problem, but you might check it.

Where is the fuse block located, are you talking about the fuse/circuit breaker panel inside the door or another one in the "guts" of the rig...where is it located [and pics would be great]???

johnboytoo · 07-08-2014, 05:00 PM

talked to the tech, while he's on his way he did say it sounded like a battery issue...

REALLY don't want to spend money on batteries for a 10 month old rv that has been in the shop more than out !!!

but for him to fix our issues, when need the batteries...

which size/type should I get for the three we need ?

atom ant · 07-08-2014, 05:07 PM

John,

Just charge the batteries and individually test them. Even check cell by cell. Not saying its not a battery problem, but 3 at once?? Not likely. Don't let the tech push you in a corner to throw money at his guess.

johnboytoo · 07-08-2014, 05:09 PM

thanks - will do, it's just his guess over the phone...

he lives near me and knows what a arsepit I can be so

atom ant · 07-08-2014, 05:11 PM

If you have an Interstate shop by you, or even a reputable parts house, tire shop, they can test for you. They just need some time to charge them up.

Oriana · 07-08-2014, 05:12 PM

When it happened to us I got the same response from a technician - the batteries were dead and needed replacement. I knew better and kept digging until I found the cause, which was the plug on the connection to the truck.

Have you had an opportunity to check if they work on shore power.

0nTheRoad · 07-08-2014, 05:19 PM

Here is a chart listing the different battery group sizes.

12v batteries most often used for RV's are groups 24, 27 and 31 and I believe that group 31 are the best suited as they have the highest Amp Hour rating but make sure they will fit into the battery boxes provided.

I opted for 6v batteries, mine are group GC2, the 6v batteries have to be wired in series to get 12v [the 12v batteries are wired in parallel [12v].

The third battery [for inverter] would most likely be a single 12v but you theoretically have two 6v wired in series if you wanted more capacity [but much more weight and size].

FYI...we had a lengthy dialogue on this topic earlier on the forum, go here

johnboytoo · 07-08-2014, 05:19 PM

Yes, everything still dead on shore power...
bringing a meter over there when I meet the tech to make sure the storage still has electricity in my slot...

brenkco · 07-08-2014, 06:19 PM

John,
Do you have the circuit breaker off for your refer (assuming you have the residential)? If so that is the circuit for your inverter/charger. If off, there is no battery charger. I recently posted a photo of mine showing the wiring.

BTW, I opted for 4- 6 volts. I had them moved into the rig when I picked it up. They are in the white box in the photo below. All 4 batteries supply the rigs 12v system along with the inverter for the refer.

Ken

ksaltman · 07-08-2014, 06:31 PM

What I've found out from Worldwide Battery is the battery in my coach is a 27dc-6. It has a capacity of 160Ah.

Norcold claims the 1210 series RV fridge will draw 3.8amps while it is running on LP. Many factors determine when it runs for instance outside temperature, stuff in the fridge etc etc, but at 3.8Amps/Hour and 160Amp Hours in the single battery the fridge could run for 42 hours.

That would be consistent with my experience over the holiday weekend.

Hope this is useful to someone other than me

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