Propane Changeover Regulator appears to be failing

[lwg]

I've got an issue where it seems the auto changeover regulator won't switch from the empty tank to the full tank, hence its not "auto-changing".. This morning one tank finally emptied and the propane heater just stopped working. I went out, noticed that the indicator showed red for the curbside tank and manually switched the lever over to the streetside tank (which is full). I also ensured that tank valve was open. For some reason it appears that the regulator isn't switching as the indicator still showed red and nothing works.

The only fix was to physically swap tanks, which subsequently fixed the problem. Is this an indication that the changeover regulator is failing or has failed?

Also, I recently replaced the curbside low pressure regulator with the upgraded Marshall unit as it failed earlier this year as well...

[JerryL]

You mean you physically turned the switch to the other tank? I've never really understood the auto change over feature, because I've never owned one that actually switched over to the other tank, so most times, unless it's winter(to have a spare at all times), I leave the lever in the neutral position, so it empties both tanks at the same time. But, if I'm using the Rv in the winter, as I am now, I get a local propane company to bring me a #100 tank, and let them switch them out when empty. That way I've always got my 2 #30s, and another #20 as spares.

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by lwg

I've got an issue where it seems the auto changeover regulator won't switch from the empty tank to the full tank, hence its not "auto-changing".. This morning one tank finally emptied and the propane heater just stopped working. I went out, noticed that the indicator showed red for the curbside tank and manually switched the lever over to the streetside tank (which is full). I also ensured that tank valve was open. For some reason it appears that the regulator isn't switching as the indicator still showed red and nothing works.

The only fix was to physically swap tanks, which subsequently fixed the problem. Is this an indication that the changeover regulator is failing or has failed?

Also, I recently replaced the curbside low pressure regulator with the upgraded Marshall unit as it failed earlier this year as well...

I had a similar situation occur with the changeover regulator last year where I was not getting gas through the regulator from one of the tanks. Someone suggested that I disconnect both tanks, turn on the stove to empty any gas from the lines to drive the pressure in the lines to zero. Then, turn the control lever back and forth several times and leave the lever pointing towards one of the tanks. Then, reconnect both full tanks and very slowly, to prevent the safety valves from activating, open both tank valves. Then, go through the process of starting the burners on the stove to purge the air from the gas lines. Then, start your water heater in LP mode and finally restart your furnace.

I did this process and surprisingly was able to get the two stage, changeover regulator functioning again. It has continued to work properly since.

Subsequent to the issue with the main regulator, I have had to replace both pigtails due to leaks and also the red high pressure regulator due to a leak. So, assuming that these LP gas components are not of the highest quality, I also have purchased another two stage, changeover regulator to have on hand in case the original one fails permanently.

Hope this helps.

[lwg]

Originally Posted by hoosierguy

I had a similar situation occur with the changeover regulator last year where I was not getting gas through the regulator from one of the tanks. Someone suggested that I disconnect both tanks, turn on the stove to empty any gas from the lines to drive the pressure in the lines to zero. Then, turn the control lever back and forth several times and leave the lever pointing towards one of the tanks. Then, reconnect both full tanks and very slowly, to prevent the safety valves from activating, open both tank valves. Then, go through the process of starting the burners on the stove to purge the air from the gas lines. Then, start your water heater in LP mode and finally restart your furnace.

I did this process and surprisingly was able to get the two stage, changeover regulator functioning again. It has continued to work properly since.

Subsequent to the issue with the main regulator, I have had to replace both pigtails due to leaks and also the red high pressure regulator due to a leak. So, assuming that these LP gas components are not of the highest quality, I also have purchased another two stage, changeover regulator to have on hand in case the original one fails permanently.

Hope this helps.

Good information, I'll give this a try.

I've considering changing the regulator as well, are they all interchangeable or do we need a certain size? I've seen some that claim 30,000 btu throughput, but I think our furnace is 35,000 btu. Not sure if they are the same thing or not?

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by lwg

Good information, I'll give this a try.

I've considering changing the regulator as well, are they all interchangeable or do we need a certain size? I've seen some that claim 30,000 btu throughput, but I think our furnace is 35,000 btu. Not sure if they are the same thing or not?

First, I am not an expert in this situation. I do think you need a regulator that is capable of supplying sufficient gas to operate all of your gas appliances simultaneously. I think that means that the regulator should be capable of supplying a throughput in excess of 150,000 BTUs. There are at least CAMCO, Marshall and Cavagna brands available.

I think the LP furnace in our Redwoods is rated at 40,000 or 42,000 BTU. I do not know the ratings for the Suburban water heater or the gas range/oven.

[Dave&Ginny]

I'm not an expert at this either but I do know that if you have a generator that runs off LP you have to have a regulator large enough to handle the gas flow. When I was at a Cummings factory service center, they checked mine to be sure it was functioning correctly.

[atom ant]

Dave,
Did they say your factory regulator was OK? I've always wondered about that.

I had similar trouble with my Marshall changeover regulator on my Montana and bought a new one. But after swapping the tank and swapping back the next day after filling, all the problems went away and I never did have to replace the regulator. Not sure what the problem was, but it went away.

I told the wife -"hey I fixed it!"

[Dave&Ginny]

Yes....apparently if you order a trailer with "generator prep" package, the package comes with a different size regulator that will handle the generator. Mine was fine.

[atom ant]

Ah cool. Thanks Dave

[lwg]

Originally Posted by Dave&Ginny

Yes....apparently if you order a trailer with "generator prep" package, the package comes with a different size regulator that will handle the generator. Mine was fine.

Interesting. Can someone with the Generator Prep or Generator package tell me what regulator your running? If I end up replacing mine it might as well be with an upgraded unit in case I ever add a generator.

[johnboytoo]

I will be at it this afternoon or tmo, but maybe you can pick it out from these pics? looks like ACR-12 or maybe just ACR-2 with the two in a box ????

sorry - terrible placement to be able to see it

why not put it on the back wall ?

[Dave&Ginny]

I believe mine has a #30 stamped on it but I'll look tonight when I get home.

[NW Snowbirds]

Is this an indication that the changeover regulator is failing or has failed?

Yes. This is a known problem. Ours failed from new. Suggest you upgrade to a better change over/regulator. While at it check your pig tails if you have the 30 lb propane cylinders. Many of the units were too short and stressed the pig tail. It would be a good time to change to longer pig tails if you have this problem.

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by NW Snowbirds

Is this an indication that the changeover regulator is failing or has failed?

Yes. This is a known problem. Ours failed from new. Suggest you upgrade to a better change over/regulator. While at it check your pig tails if you have the 30 lb propane cylinders. Many of the units were too short and stressed the pig tail. It would be a good time to change to longer pig tails if you have this problem.

Excellent point. The two pigtails that I replaced had way too tight of a kink placed on them. (I have the 30 lb tanks) Both failed in the past year. So, I replaced the 15 inch with 20 inch pigtails.

[lwg]

I've replaced both pigtails and the low pressure regulator on the curbside already.

Johnboytoo,
Interesting, if its ACR-2 its the same as mine.

[JerryL]

Originally Posted by johnboytoo

I will be at it this afternoon or tmo, but maybe you can pick it out from these pics? looks like ACR-12 or maybe just ACR-2 with the two in a box ????

sorry - terrible placement to be able to see it

why not put it on the back wall ?

Looks like, from the pics, that you keep yours in the middle position, to run off both tanks?

[johnboytoo]

No sir,
just had to turn it that way to get the 'decorative' protective cover off and on...
normally is to one side or the other

[lwg]

Originally Posted by JerryL

Looks like, from the pics, that you keep yours in the middle position, to run off both tanks?

Since we have no manual for these. When in the middle position does it draw from both tanks at the same time? What about if it's pointing to a particular tank? Does it the. Use that tank up until empty and then switches to the full/other tank?

[johnboytoo]

lwg, ideally it should run out of the one pointed at until empty and then changeover...

Like others have, I just ordered a gauge from amazon to put on my SECOND tank so I'll have an idea when I am close to running completely out!
if it works well I'll order a second one.

Not exactly our tanks/etc, but same concept :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y56_...5kDvkjAEuLEJy0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjqE00P2aPY

[Dave&Ginny]

Well that's a pretty good explanation on how it works