Redwood Underbelly Insulation

[JoshKennedy]

Has any one added any insulation are made any modifications to their Redwood to preparefor winter. If so what have you done

[mhs4771]

The only mod we do to get ready for Winter is head for warmer climate. I know, not very helpful, but I couldn't resist.

[rcflame]

It depends on where your winter is? We have had to do a few things if we leave for warmer climate later, or come back a little early. I think you have to be a little more specific.

[KenM]

I have added insulation to to the underbelly, front and rear cap. I have also sealed off all of the holes that I can find from the outside, pass-thruand underbelly into the interior where I can.



I have also added insulation in the short walls and the ceiling in the pass-thru behind the wall to help reduce noise from the inverter.



I have added fatmat (dynamat) & rigid foam insulationaround the outside of the sheet metal enclosure for the generator housing to reduce noise and insulate from both noise and temperature.



I did all of this to accomplish several things. To control temperaters, reduce sound, wind, insects and rodents from entering the coach.

[JoshKennedy]

KenM I have added some additional insulation in my underbelly around my tanks for some extra protection. When i first purchased the RV I got transfered from Louisiana to Chicago and had a freeze up issue my second night in the RV . Once removing the the corrugated underbelly I realized why . The manufacture definition of insulated underbelly and mine are two different things . The only protection you have as you know is the the silver bubble wrap . What i found with mine is that the pex piping from the fresh water tank to the pump was mounted to the side of the I beam with no theremal protection which is exactly where the line froze . Since then I have added 2" foam board around my tank walls and the inside of the webbing on the Ibeam . We used durodyne self adhesive insulation pins to hold and support the foam board in place to the tanks and walls . With the way that pins work it would allow easy removal of insualtion if needed to make repairs underneath . However I have yet to do anything past the tanks and need to look at doing the middle to rear section of the RV . We do a lot of work up north for long periods of time and im just trying to find out what others have done to protect thier rig when dealing with negative tempature differences . Now granted I understand the the underbelly is heated butonly by the furnace which makes me very nervous if for some reason you run out of propane are freeze up a regulator you have no heated underbelly protection. You can always add a cermaic heater but myself personally try to reframe from the just for the simple fire hazard . I was working about a year ago in central wyoming were we had a blizzrd come through and we lost power for a night in negative 25 degree weather snd actually had issue with propane regualtors freezing up .

[KenM]

Josh,

You can add 12 volt heat pads to the tanks to helpstop themfreezing. As for the pex water lines you can also add the split foam water line insulation around them. In sub freezing temperatures the water lines will still need something like you suggested in the ceramic heater or you caninstall 12 volt heat tape if you lose power or the furnace is not working. The problem with all of the 12 volt heating is it can drain your batteries very quickly if you do not have shore power or a generator after a period of time to recharge the batteries or have more batteries.



I have also been considering placingrigid foam board insulation on the outside webbing of the I-beam frame and then have some sheet metal fabricated to enclose the foam for even more protection.



In order for the furnace to protect the tanks and the pex lines in the basement there needs to be air gaps so the heated air can circulate around them.



As far as the rest of the under belly goes, I added John Manville R-30 fiber glass insulation without the vapor barrier (no paper on one side). I used Johns Manville for several reasons,it has no formaldehyde andit is not as itchy. I picked it up at Lowe's, it is white instead of pink. It also has better sound control qualities than the pink stuff.



I was careful how I installed it around the slides and hydraulic rams so not to interfere with the operation.



I am still working on something to try and seal off the hole around the hydraulic rams but not damage the ram cylinder. They make some bells that will seal them off when the slides are closed but not when open. I am concerned about drafts, insects and rodents entering through these gaps.



Aroundthe hydraulic hoses thatgo through the frame, I purchased some plugs that fit inside of the existing insulators and notched them on each side for the hose to fit through then put some black silicone on them and snapped them in place. Around the other small slotsin the frame I also filled them with black silicone.



For the front cap, I removed the shoe storage in the closet to gain access to the front cap. You will see that the insulation has silver bubble wrap and then wool insulation on top of the at that is not installed very well, at leastit was not in mine. Again I added the same John Manville R-30 insulation.



In the rear cap there is not a lot you can do with out removing the whole rear cap. You can gain some access when you remove the belly pan and thetwo pieces on either side of the corrugated plastic that is under the side skirts. I installed R-19 insulation along the bottom of the rear cap. I then fiberglassed in a piece of plywood to the inside of the rear cap toattach the belly pan corrugated plasticto make a better seal and help reduce drafts.



On the inside of the coach I sealed all of the penetrations from wires and pipes withblack silicone or rodent proof spray foam. For large gapes I would install the spray foam andafterit dreid I would trim it and place the black silicone on top of that.I also added gaskets to all of the outlets and wall jacks that are on the outside walls of the coach. I also took the trims down from all of the ceiling exhaust fans and added insulation around them as well.



Hope this helps.Edited by: KenM

[spindrift]

Ken...Holy Crap! Now that's what I'd call a four season coach. I'll bookmark you're improvements in case we ever decide to winter north. Nice job.

[KenM]

Some of the improvements also help with cooling!Edited by: KenM

[atom ant]

Ken,
Did the front insulation help with the heat in the closet?

[KenM]

Not completly but it did help. With the doors closed and no circulation there is still heat build up but not as bad.

I believe to improve A/C system Redwood needsto install return air ducts in the bedroom. Particularly if you have two A/C units. I don't belive there enough return air for two A/C units and bedroom really needs a return air for when the bedroom door is closed. It would also be nice if there was a least a one small duct run into the closet to reduce heat gain.

[JoshKennedy]

Ken I couldnt agree with you more on the return air system the space left above the doors just doesnt allow enough draft

[Adamsvr]

There is one return duct in our 36RL in the bedroom. It's under the cabinets near the bathroom. It ducts into the space behind the main garage wall.

[KenM]

I beveive that return air is for the furance not the roof top A/C.

[Adamsvr]

Correct, but it is a return duct. Actually, ours pours hot air into our bedroom during the summer and cold air in the winter. The opposite effect we want.Edited by: Adamsvr

[KenM]

It is the heat from the area in the behind the wall in the basement where the furnace, water heater and inverter are. You are getting the heat from the area from the space that is not cooled during the summer when you are running your A/C and of course heat raises, so the hot air is coming in.

I am thinking of running ducts for the return for the furance as well like a home system insead of just being open like they are in the coach.



The other thing you could do is cover the ducts during the summer and then un-cover them during the winter. The only problem would be on some of the cold nights when you are still running the A/C's during the summer.



You can buy those magnetic cover for the ones with metal grills and them pull them off. In the 31SL there is a air return for the furance under the bathroom cabinet. So you have to make a cover for it as well.

[Adamsvr]

In addition to all those fantastic upgrades you made, forced air returns would really help. Some sort of fans behind the air return ducts to pull air into garage area.