Shackle Bolts Missing

[atom ant]

Originally Posted by MuddFlap

The new Redwoods come with 8k axels and MorRyde LRE 4100. I don't know how the "LRE" compares to the "SRE" but it's an option.

Actually the LRE is a major retrofit as it is welded to the frame. It's not even close to the SRE. If you were to retrofit the LRE - you might as well go for the gusto and get the IS.

Montana had the LRE 4000 for decades. Nice, but not a giant step over the original Redwood equaflex.

[MuddFlap]

So LRE is a 4" travel suspension, the SRE is a 4" travel with a cross brace and the IS is basically torsion axles?

[atom ant]

Originally Posted by MuddFlap

So LRE is a 4" travel suspension, the SRE is a 4" travel with a cross brace and the IS is basically torsion axles?

More or less.

There is no torsion associated with the IS, even though it looks like the old original Dexter torsion axles. The IS suspension uses a rubber sheer spring combined with a trailing link, kind of like a MH would use but with air bags. There is no axle when they finish the install. http://www.morryde.com/images/flash/IS_suspension.swf

Your description of the LRE and SRE are right on, with the SRE being a retrofit model of the LRE.

Ironically, the X-Factor cross brace system was created as a resolution for the LRE originally. The robustness of the LRE welded to the bottom of the frame had no flex, so in side stress the frame webbing would actually crack. Keystone used the LRE on the Montana and had some of the frames actually fold in half and collapse sideways at the web with the axles shifting to one side. Personally, I would install the X-Factor on any I-beam frame with the LRE.

The X-factor is required for the SRE, because it relies on retrofit to the original spring hanger where the original equalizer was, and those are not very strong either. The X-Factor bracing helps keep the hanger square to the frame.

[Shane Wood]

Good info Brad

[Ford truck guy]

Originally Posted by atom ant

More or less.

There is no torsion associated with the IS, even though it looks like the old original Dexter torsion axles. The IS suspension uses a rubber sheer spring combined with a trailing link, kind of like a MH would use but with air bags. There is no axle when they finish the install. http://www.morryde.com/images/flash/IS_suspension.swf

Your description of the LRE and SRE are right on, with the SRE being a retrofit model of the LRE.

Ironically, the X-Factor cross brace system was created as a resolution for the LRE originally. The robustness of the LRE welded to the bottom of the frame had no flex, so in side stress the frame webbing would actually crack. Keystone used the LRE on the Montana and had some of the frames actually fold in half and collapse sideways at the web with the axles shifting to one side. Personally, I would install the X-Factor on any I-beam frame with the LRE.

The X-factor is required for the SRE, because it relies on retrofit to the original spring hanger where the original equalizer was, and those are not very strong either. The X-Factor bracing helps keep the hanger square to the frame.

And the IS has 5-1/2" travel

[mhs4771]

And no Shackle bolts to loose and only four grease zerks on the IS.

[Marty51]

I have a broken leaf spring on my 38GK and want to upgrade to the Mor/Ryde. Can someone tell me if I have 7000 or 8000 pound axles and what Mor/Ryde system they would recommend and the best place to purchase. Thank you for the help it is appreciated.

[par]

Originally Posted by Marty51

I have a broken leaf spring on my 38GK and want to upgrade to the Mor/Ryde. Can someone tell me if I have 7000 or 8000 pound axles and what Mor/Ryde system they would recommend and the best place to purchase. Thank you for the help it is appreciated.

I know I have 8000 lb axles, but when I went through this with Lippert to purchase bearings they made me take a picture of the sticker on the actual axle shaft. It is pretty clear on that sticker assuming it is still there.

As an aside since I started this thread, I have decided to go with the Dexter EZ-Flex equalizers with 4 NeverFail bushings and 4 dry bolts for the spring ends. The EZ-Flex appears to be better quality with the heavier shackles than Equa-Flex. Since I broke 2 bolts I believe that the dry bolt with NeverFail bushings should improve that situation.

[travelin' texans]

From my experiences I'd go with wet bolts all around, Never Fail means they never fail til you're in the middle of no where. The Dexter equalizer sounds like a good option & with the MorRyde heavy shackles & wet bolts would be the cats pajamas. Have you looked at the Lippert Center point system, much cheaper than the IS.

[Ford truck guy]

Originally Posted by Marty51

I have a broken leaf spring on my 38GK and want to upgrade to the Mor/Ryde. Can someone tell me if I have 7000 or 8000 pound axles and what Mor/Ryde system they would recommend and the best place to purchase. Thank you for the help it is appreciated.

If your looking to replace the springs, I would go ALL IN . . Instead of shackles, bolts, equalizers . Just jump into the MORryde IS... But you would have to take the trip to Indiana to have it installed....

This way you would get rid of all those weak links below you..

If you cannot swing the trip and or the $$$ ( about $3500.00 ) the next best solution would be the MORryde SRE4000 at $360.00 and the wet bolt & HD shackle kit by MORryde at $75.00.. Installation will vary depending on where you are . . You can get them online, I got them before at Makarios RV online, they were cheaper than anyone else at the time..

[Marty51]

I just started seeking info so I have not really looked at the Dexter or Mor Ryde but what I did see I liked the Dexter. I plan on getting in the air tomorrow and tearing it apart. I know my springs are broke. Should I order new springs from Redwood, go to my local spring shop or order from a trailer dealer. I have never done spring work before so the parts thing is a little confusing to me but the installation is something I confident I can do. Names of companies to order from would be helpful. Again thanks for the replies they are very helpful.

[par]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

From my experiences I'd go with wet bolts all around, Never Fail means they never fail til you're in the middle of no where. The Dexter equalizer sounds like a good option & with the MorRyde heavy shackles & wet bolts would be the cats pajamas. Have you looked at the Lippert Center point system, much cheaper than the IS.

You probably did not read the entire thread (and I don't blame you) but I had 2 wet bolts break off at the end of the spring. The theory being that they broke due to the holes in the bolt to allow the grease to flow through. This has me paranoid and I need to 'kill that theory' by using dry bolts.
Yes, I did look at the center-point system and the general consensus appears to be that that system would not help the end bolts from breaking. I agree much cheaper than IS, but still quite a bit more expensive than my current plan.

[par]

Originally Posted by Marty51

I just started seeking info so I have not really looked at the Dexter or Mor Ryde but what I did see I liked the Dexter. I plan on getting in the air tomorrow and tearing it apart. I know my springs are broke. Should I order new springs from Redwood, go to my local spring shop or order from a trailer dealer. I have never done spring work before so the parts thing is a little confusing to me but the installation is something I confident I can do. Names of companies to order from would be helpful. Again thanks for the replies they are very helpful.

I have been dealing with eTrailer, they are responsive, seem to know what they are talking about and prompt on delivery. I will order my parts from them.

[Ford truck guy]

I purchased my Flex-Air from E-Trailer...Those folks were fantastic to deal with... I also purchased some spare brake parts for my last SOB fifth wheel from them, with the same results

[travelin' texans]

With original wet bolts I can completely understand your skepticism, those plastic bushings in the spring eyes didn't move much after a few miles, once they've bound up the spring is the weakest part. The bronze bushings & wet bolts from MorRyde actually take grease without having to raise the wheels off the ground & I feel very confident in the quality of the parts.
We've got 60k+/- miles on our RW since the shackle/wet bolt upgrade & so far no problems. I've also upgraded to Titan disc brakes (thanks Ron, money well spent) & H rated tires & WOW what a difference, would HIGHLY recommend both of those.
Just returned to Arizona from a 3000-3500 mile trip to Washington & leave Thurs for another 3000 mile round trip to Texas & back.
As far as springs, if you have local shop they'd most likely be cheaper than a rv shop, if it says it's for a rv, or anything that's recreational, the price goes up. They could probably custom make you a set to account for the kitchen slide being heavier.

[par]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

With original wet bolts I can completely understand your skepticism, those plastic bushings in the spring eyes didn't move much after a few miles, once they've bound up the spring is the weakest part. The bronze bushings & wet bolts from MorRyde actually take grease without having to raise the wheels off the ground & I feel very confident in the quality of the parts.
We've got 60k+/- miles on our RW since the shackle/wet bolt upgrade & so far no problems. I've also upgraded to Titan disc brakes (thanks Ron, money well spent) & H rated tires & WOW what a difference, would HIGHLY recommend both of those.
Just returned to Arizona from a 3000-3500 mile trip to Washington & leave Thurs for another 3000 mile round trip to Texas & back.
As far as springs, if you have local shop they'd most likely be cheaper than a rv shop, if it says it's for a rv, or anything that's recreational, the price goes up. They could probably custom make you a set to account for the kitchen slide being heavier.

Can't help but ask, aren't H rated tires rated for 55 mph? While quite frankly it could be argued that is fast enough pulling these trailers. I have G rated tires and I have 20,000 miles on them and they still look good. I usually max my speed at 65 mph and occasionally faster when passing. In any case it's good to know that people are using H tires.

[RWJSIM2003]

We added the Moryde SRE 4000 This summer along with the Moryde HD Shackles and wet bolts. We have put about 1000 miles on the trailer since the additions and it is a huge difference in ride. While I was at it I also upgraded to the Timken bearings and seals and replaced all the Brakes on the trailer. May go to disk next year but so far I am happy with the drums just have to Check the adjustment.

[travelin' texans]

Par, actually haven't looked to see if they are speed rated, if so I've exceeded it in the last 2 months as there were times passing jerks that decided to speed up once I was 2/3 of the way around them. They are 16 ply inflated to 120 psi. I also had Gs with 55-60k on them & it was very little more to upgrade to the Hs with Titan Guys deal than to just replace the Gs. I think Vaughn (Piper Guy) has put or thinking of putting Js on his RW, compared to the Hs they must be solid rubber.

[mhs4771]

Don't know about other brands, but my GY G114s are rated at 75 MPH

[spindrift]

The speed rating for the Sailun S637, 215/75R17.5 is "L", which is 75MPH.