Water heater element

Dro67 · 01-07-2015, 12:16 AM

Can anyone tell me where to order a heating element for our water heater? I've tried looking it up online and haven't had any luck. The Model # is listed as SW12DEL

**hoosierguy** · 01-07-2015, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dro67

Can anyone tell me where to order a heating element for our water heater? I've tried looking it up online and haven't had any luck. The Model # is listed as SW12DEL

Try this link:

http://www.amazon.com/Suburban-52090...+number+520900

This Suburban heating element P/N 520900. It is a 1440 Watt, 120 Volts element.

Hope this helps.

mhs4771 · 01-07-2015, 01:03 AM

Some have had good luck with places like Home Depot and Lowes

Marilyn H · 01-07-2015, 01:50 AM

We just had our water heater repaired, but it wasn't the heating element. Our technician found that the electricity to power the heater was totally disconnected. He put the wires together properly and WA LA, working again. It may have been that way since we bought it because we always switched on both the gas and electric switches at the same time and left them on, until we learned how it was supposed to operate.

**hoosierguy** · 01-07-2015, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dro67

Can anyone tell me where to order a heating element for our water heater? I've tried looking it up online and haven't had any luck. The Model # is listed as SW12DEL

Have you confirmed that the heating element has in fact failed. If you disconnect the wire leads from the terminals and measure the element with an ohm meter, the element resistance should measure 10 +/- 1 ohms.

Dro67 · 01-07-2015, 02:49 AM

Yes it is the element. We thought the tank had filled but the bypass switch had been flipped so it was on for about an hour

mhs4771 · 01-07-2015, 03:15 AM

Ah, so in other words you have "Fried Element".

Dro67 · 01-07-2015, 03:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhs4771

Ah, so in other words you have "Fried Element".

Exactly! Another one of those "lessons learned" 😊

**Dave&Ginny** · 01-07-2015, 03:38 AM

At least it's not an expensive lesson.

Happy Camper · 01-08-2015, 09:20 AM

Our electric side of the water heater recently quit working after almost 3 years of continuous use. We had noticed that the water was not as hot as when it was new and got to point of no hot water. We are running off the LP side for now until I can get a new element and the weather warms a bit. At least it's not expensive but may be fun replacing.

Dro67 · 01-08-2015, 03:48 PM

Found the part specific to our water heater here. Quick shipping too! RV Parts Superstore in Houston, Tx. Wasn't hard at all to take out. Hope it goes back in that easy!

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...ccessories.htm

laynejenk · 01-31-2015, 07:21 PM

Ours is doing the same thing. I changed the element and ohm'ed it out and read 10.3 ohms. I replaced it and water still would not heat on electric. checked for voltage on the element and it does not read. Where was the lose wire that you found.

Marilyn H · 01-31-2015, 07:59 PM

Sorry, I can't help you with the location of the water heater power wires. The RV repair guy took care of it. Perhaps someone else on the forum will know what to look for.

shepcody · 01-31-2015, 09:38 PM

Check your 110 cb and the reset button on the back of the water heater. Some times it will pop out if the thermostat is going bad

**Dave&Ginny** · 01-31-2015, 09:38 PM

Be sure to check the toggle switch on the outside of the water heater. We had someone on the forum that found that $2 switch gad gone bad and because of that his water heater wouldn't heat on electric.

laynejenk · 01-31-2015, 11:55 PM

Just ohmed out my switch by the water heater and the one in the coach both ohmed good. Still no electric to the heater. Shaking my head.

Shane Wood · 02-01-2015, 12:17 AM

Have you got voltage to the switch at the water heater

**hoosierguy** · 02-01-2015, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by laynejenk

Just ohmed out my switch by the water heater and the one in the coach both ohmed good. Still no electric to the heater. Shaking my head.

If you have voltage at the switch at the water heater, the thermostat may be bad. I had to replace the thermostat last winter on mine. The thermostat is located behind the black cover on the side of the water heater panel (assuming you have a Suburban WH). The thermostat was literally burned open on mine. I was able to go to Camping World to get a replacement.

There have been some folks that have had issues with the wires, that connect to the thermostat behind that black cover, shorting out to the metal case. So, check the the condition of the insulation on those wires and make sure that they are not shorting out there. If a short does occur, you likely will have a blown circuit breaker. You may have to turn your circuit breakers off and then on to reset a blown or tripped breaker.

laynejenk · 02-01-2015, 01:41 AM

No voltage to the switch at the water heater

mhs4771 · 02-01-2015, 02:21 AM

OK, time for an update on how the WH gets it's power.
The Circuit breaker in the panel provides 120VAC to a relay box mounted on the rear side of the WH, inside that box is a relay. The relay is energized by the lighted switch inside the RW, the one that says Electric, right next to the Gas switch. That switch provides 12VDC to the relay on the side of the WH, when 12VDC is applied the relay is energized which in turns passes the 120VAC to the small black switch in the lower left corner of the WH. From that switch the 120VAC goes to the Thermostat and High Limit switches located under the Black Plastic cover, from there it finally goes to the Heating Element.
So if you're not getting 120VAC at the small black switch and are positive you have 120VAC on the Load side of the Circuit Breaker in the panel, you've got a problem within the relay box. And it's not easy to get to that relay box. I had to disconnect a few of the Furnace Hose Ducts and it was still difficult to reach, but not impossible.
Good luck and hope this info helps.

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