Water Leak - Underbelly Full - Page 2

atom ant · 05-27-2014, 03:47 PM

I put one behind the Jon, between the washer/dryer, and the third in the basement behind the wall below the water filter.

The one behind the wall is mounted with the sensor attached to the floor, but the box up at the ceiling so I can get to it, if you have the type with the remote wired sensor.

AlanN · 05-27-2014, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0nTheRoad

Alan & Angele,

I really have to wonder hob an issue the infamous overflowing toilet is...not to discount the issue or the seriousness of this happening...just how big a problem is it? How many, what percentage, of Redwood owners are having problems with the toilet?
I seldom shut off the water to our coach unless we are going out of town for 2-3 days.

Seems to me that if it's even a 1 in 500 issue, I'd rather be proactive and swap out the toilet for one with a better track record. I'd rather be very proactive about leaks than wait for one to happen ... just one, as described, can create havoc with your life. A few extra shut off valves here, a few sensors there - maybe it's overkill and overreaction on my part, but I'll feel better if I know I've done all I can do to prevent this. Then, when it DOES happen in spite of my best efforts... Hehehehe...

0nTheRoad · 05-27-2014, 04:14 PM

The only other areas I would consider would be under the galley sink, the bathroom sink and/or in the undercarriage where the fresh/waste water tanks are.

atom ant · 05-27-2014, 04:17 PM

Ya that's actually a good thought. I may get a fourth.

johnboytoo · 05-27-2014, 04:35 PM

NOT that anyone has experienced leaks like we have...

but might I suggest under the kitchen sinks too ? preferably on the shelf right below the drains...

and behind the bottom drawer next to the fridge where the ice maker line comes into the slide....

AlanN · 05-27-2014, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnboytoo

NOT that anyone has experienced leaks like we have...

but might I suggest under the kitchen sinks too ? preferably on the shelf right below the drains...

and behind the bottom drawer next to the fridge where the ice maker line comes into the slide....

Looks like I'll have to order and additional 3-pak of sensors, LOL!

TNTBaker · 05-27-2014, 06:20 PM

I would like to try and put at least one (somehow) in a low point in the underbelly. I am sure there are MANY connections that are not above the floor that you would never know were leaking, even a slow leak. I have no idea if it's even possible to do that (they should do this at the factory!) Because (in my opinion) a long, slow leak over a long period of time that goes unnoticed is far worse than a catastrophic obvious one. I think I would SEE the water on the floor for some locations. What about where you DON'T see it? Any ideas? Probably impossible to get a sensor down there...

AlanN · 05-27-2014, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TNTBaker

I would like to try and put at least one (somehow) in a low point in the underbelly. I am sure there are MANY connections that are not above the floor that you would never know were leaking, even a slow leak. I have no idea if it's even possible to do that (they should do this at the factory!) Because (in my opinion) a long, slow leak over a long period of time that goes unnoticed is far worse than a catastrophic obvious one. I think I would SEE the water on the floor for some locations. What about where you DON'T see it? Any ideas? Probably impossible to get a sensor down there...

I plan to spend a few days at the local KOA after I take delivery to do my personal PDI. I'll start by pulling down the belly panels and garage walls so I can see the tanks and make sure all connections are tight. I'll have a remote water sensor on hand and will find a strategic place to site it. Then I'll fill all tanks and ave a visual for any possible leaks. I also want to be sure that all heat ducts are well connected to the floor vents, and I'm sure I'll get more ideas. I'll photograph everything for future reference, and to document any possible issues I find. Yeah, this is probably overkill, but it's gonna be our house! I know every wire and pipe in our S&B house, so why not the RV as well? A little knowledge is dangerous, true, but a LOT of knowledge can be liberating! (Or even more dangerous, :-). Funny - I've never had a water sensor in our house, but after the ice maker hose leaked twice, ruining the floor once, I now know I should have installed them a long time ago. So now I will!

TNTBaker · 05-27-2014, 06:57 PM

I had assumed that pulling belly panels was a difficult thing that you only did if there was a problem? Maybe I am wrong. If it's do-able, then someday we will surely be hiding a little water sensor or two down there, threaded up into the house to give piece of mind!! LET US KNOW what you find!!

Oriana · 05-27-2014, 07:09 PM

Similar to Brad we have one in the bathroom beside the toilet and one with all the water lines behind the basement wall. Don't have W/D.

With respect to turning the water off, we don't do it in the S&B, with copper piping, which I consider inferior to the pex pipes over time. If we turn the water off every time we leave the coach, shouldn't we also consider turning off the shore power and propane.

We could get a water leak, an electrical fire or a propane leak all with significant consequences, but I suggest they have very low probability. Therefore, our choice is to accept those risks and don't find it necessary to shut off any of them when we leave. We do manage the risk by fitting water alarms, surge protector and propane alarms.

Just our opinion.

TNTBaker · 05-27-2014, 07:12 PM

Yes, we agree, there are (or can be) sufficient safety alarms/indicators to allow you to not live in fear. We do our best, then hope for the best :-)

atom ant · 05-27-2014, 07:22 PM

IT would be really hard to target the low point in the belly, (until you get a leak of course then it looks like a water balloon down there!). Anyway, beyond the insulation, there isn't too much to damage down there like wood or flooring, so I personally didn't worry about it. Not saying I'm right, but that is kind of where I drew the line.

0nTheRoad · 05-27-2014, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

IT would be really hard to target the low point in the belly, (until you get a leak of course then it looks like a water balloon down there!). Anyway, beyond the insulation, there isn't too much to damage down there like wood or flooring, so I personally didn't worry about it. Not saying I'm right, but that is kind of where I drew the line.

In addition, the low point COULD be different each time you level and would most likely be different when only using the front jacks.

TNTBaker · 05-27-2014, 07:36 PM

I was just thinking it would be impossible to put a sensor everywhere there might be a water leak... a low point would say, "you have water leaking somewhere, so TURN OFF THE WATER and START WORRYING!!"

AlanN · 05-27-2014, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TNTBaker

I had assumed that pulling belly panels was a difficult thing that you only did if there was a problem? Maybe I am wrong. If it's do-able, then someday we will surely be hiding a little water sensor or two down there, threaded up into the house to give piece of mind!! LET US KNOW what you find!!

I plan to ask my service tech guy about the belly pans when we do the dealer PDI. If he tells me that it's a reasonable thing to do, I'll try it and gain some knowledge. If he tells me that he'd never personally do it, and that I'd be an idiot to attempt it outside a service shop, then I won't, and gain some wisdom. Good to go either way! I'll definitely let you know, although you may take delivery before we do. I've got almost a month before the Ram chassis cab arrives and gets to the up fitter for its body.

atom ant · 05-27-2014, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlanN

I plan to ask my service tech guy about the belly pans when we do the dealer PDI. If he tells me that it's a reasonable thing to do, I'll try it and gain some knowledge. If he tells me that he'd never personally do it, and that I'd be an idiot to attempt it outside a service shop, then I won't, and gain some wisdom. Good to go either way! I'll definitely let you know, although you may take delivery before we do. I've got almost a month before the Ram chassis cab arrives and gets to the up fitter for its body.

I wouldn't rely on the typical PDI guy to be able to tell you, sometimes those guys are generic PDI guys for all brands but don't know any specific brand very well, let alone ever worked on it.

AlanN · 05-27-2014, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

I wouldn't rely on the typical PDI guy to be able to tell you, sometimes those guys are generic PDI guys for all brands but don't know any specific brand very well, let alone ever worked on it.

Hahaha - of course, of course. OK, I'll ask YOU then: How hard are the belly pans to remove, or at least lower one end at a time? I have every conceivable tip for my screw gun. Seriously, I'm not so much concerned about lowering it as getting it back up - depending on how many pieces it has, it could be a real, uh, problem getting a 20 ft pan lifted back up in place. Or even an eight foot piece if it's heavy. But it can't hurt to ask if a) he's ever done it and b) how difficult it is.

atom ant · 05-27-2014, 11:47 PM

Alan,
I've been fortunate enough I've not had to take mine down on this rig. My last one was a completely different type material. However, Dave (Dave and Ginny) had his completely down and can give you an idea.

coloradolivin · 05-27-2014, 11:52 PM

Alan,
The belly pan is held up with strips held in place with 3/8" sheet metal screws. The pan itself is lightweight insulation material. Piece of cake to remove the trim and drop at least one side of the pan so you can see inside.

Adamsvr · 05-27-2014, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlanN

Hahaha - of course, of course. OK, I'll ask YOU then: How hard are the belly pans to remove, or at least lower one end at a time? I have every conceivable tip for my screw gun. Seriously, I'm not so much concerned about lowering it as getting it back up - depending on how many pieces it has, it could be a real, uh, problem getting a 20 ft pan lifted back up in place. Or even an eight foot piece if it's heavy. But it can't hurt to ask if a) he's ever done it and b) how difficult it is.

I've taken part of our 36RL pan down and it was a PIA to get it back up. The part I took down was under our steps. It was about eight feet long and made of some sort of corridated plastic that was rather stiff. You'll need a S2 square socket bit and a power drill. There must have been 20 or 30 screws holding the pan up. If I was to do it again, I'd enlist a friend to hold it up while I rescrewed it.

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