Will dead batteries stop everything?

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by johnboytoo

Dean, should be easy to DIY...
ours must have been a dealer 'fix' because ours looks different than others that have been posted..
some look like these clear exterior waterproof switch covers, but ours is a carpeted top hinged cover - just gravity closed

JohnBoyToo..........that is exactly the way the dealer did mine long before Redwood sent out their fix. If someone wants what Redwood sent to me, I still have it and would be glad to send it to you. Just send me a PM with your email adrs and I will send it to you.

Guy

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by GA1817

Having bought it used I doubt they would give me one!

I wouldn't be so sure as that seemed to be a safety issue. It should have been taken care of with the original owner. The worst that can happen is they say "no".

[johnboytoo]

Originally Posted by Rick and Mindy

I wouldn't be so sure as that seemed to be a safety issue. It should have been taken care of with the original owner. The worst that can happen is they say "no".

Agree, like auto recalls - would think it follows the rv...

[atom ant]

The recall solution looks like this:



Before the recall, I used two outdoor outlet covers that were hinged at the top. The awning switches fit through the rectangular single gang outlet cover.

[atom ant]

Originally Posted by almcc

Just thinking about a solution to the issue of a complete electrical shutdown and the liability problems it causes to manufacturers, if they wanted to do it.

I remember in the old days the pick ups had an option to install a second battery for truck campers and there was a solenoid that isolated the "camper" battery to prevent it from draining the main one when the truck engine was stopped.

I note that the newer trucks "know" when the trailer is connected, not sure what circuit they get the signal off, if the RV folks devised a circuit consisting of a solenoid or isolator that connects the batts to the trailer when the trailer is connected to the truck (disconnects when not connected) and a bypass switch in the monitor panel that activates the solenoid if you want to run on battery power it would solve the problem. I would't depend on the umbilical power line in the trailer harness as I believe some manufacturers don't install a fuse in the box, you have to do it. Maybe the brake power to the trailer from the truck?

I did half this mod to an older RV that had the disconnect behind the basement wall and didn't fully disconnect the trailer, I installed a solenoid near the batts with a simple on-off switch that disconnected the batts when we were parked.

I thought about that at one time, just to eliminate the heavy duty switch and just go with a solenoid. The only issue is when the trailer goes by-by, so does power to the solenoid and no brake activation if the emergency brake happened to be wired on the load side of the solenoid.

[Rick and Mindy]

I hope this works ok. This is a picture of my wiring in my 31sl after the Service Center rewired the cutoff switch.

[Rick and Mindy]

To give you a breakdown of the wires that go to the cutoff switch: I only have one battery. The red positive wire goes from battery to cutoff switch. Then a red wire goes from the switch and connects to the upper right, along with the jumper wire that goes from the upper right to the upper left. Not sure what the other red cables go to but I don't think those were changed, maybe the diagram shown in an earlier post would help.

[Rick and Mindy]

The bussbar circuit PDF file that Guy posted earlier would have to be looked at upside down to compare to my hookup

[danrn]

Rick & Hoosierguy,
Thanks for posting your diagrams and pictures. This will be useful later when I take my RW in for service. I am uncomfortable trying to do this work myself, so I will push the service department to do it for me when I take it in.
I mentioned in an earlier post that I had plugged my truck into my RW and even after 30 minutes I still didn't have any power in my RW. I just looked at my truck fuses and found one that I think is blown (weird looking cube like fuses). It is a 30amp fuse. Now this is a little encouraging, but also concerning. Encouraging because I found a problem, but concerning that a 30amp fuse blew when I plugged it into my RW when nothing is on and the battery disconnect is activated. I'm sure my batteries are deader than a door nail, but that in itself shouldn't blow a 30amp fuse.....or should it?

[mhs4771]

Dan, they may have changed, but my 2011 has a 40 amp fues for the 12V line to the Trailer. Don't know the details behind your TV, but if it didn't come with the Heavy Duty Camper Package, the 12V charge line might not be connected at the under hood fuse block.

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by danrn

Rick & Hoosierguy,
Thanks for posting your diagrams and pictures. This will be useful later when I take my RW in for service. I am uncomfortable trying to do this work myself, so I will push the service department to do it for me when I take it in.
I mentioned in an earlier post that I had plugged my truck into my RW and even after 30 minutes I still didn't have any power in my RW. I just looked at my truck fuses and found one that I think is blown (weird looking cube like fuses). It is a 30amp fuse. Now this is a little encouraging, but also concerning. Encouraging because I found a problem, but concerning that a 30amp fuse blew when I plugged it into my RW when nothing is on and the battery disconnect is activated. I'm sure my batteries are deader than a door nail, but that in itself shouldn't blow a 30amp fuse.....or should it?

If your batteries are to the point of having been damaged, shorted cell/s or just completely discharged, they could easily pull enough current when connected to a charging source to blow the 30 amp fuse. I would recommend that you remove the batteries from the trailer and take them to a auto dealer or Autozone or similar place to have them fully charged and then tested. There should be no cost for doing this. Then you will know the status of the batteries. You should also have the tow vehicle wiring checked out at your dealer to ensure that it is correct and functional.

[almcc]

Originally Posted by atom ant

I thought about that at one time, just to eliminate the heavy duty switch and just go with a solenoid. The only issue is when the trailer goes by-by, so does power to the solenoid and no brake activation if the emergency brake happened to be wired on the load side of the solenoid.

When I wired the switch and solenoid I got power directly from one of the batteries with a fuse protecting the switch. That way the solenoid doesn't open during a trailer separation (assuming the batts aren't dead). The only problem wiring it this way is that if you have a completely dead set of batteries the solenoid won't pull in, but it doesn't happen often with a full disconnect and if it does, running a jumper temporarily from the buss where the convertor power comes in would close the solenoid, then the convertor power charging the batts would hold the solenoid in.

[atom ant]

Ah, that works.

[johnboytoo]

you electrical geniuses !!!
will start talking computerese if you don't stop it

[RW Cal]

On my 2015 38RL my dealer/service center has determined that the switch is miswired. It is still in the shop, so I have not seen their solution yet, but that makes sense, since I couldn't keep a charge for over 2 days.

[danrn]

Originally Posted by RW Cal

On my 2015 38RL my dealer/service center has determined that the switch is miswired. It is still in the shop, so I have not seen their solution yet, but that makes sense, since I couldn't keep a charge for over 2 days.

RW,
This is the same situation I have. After completely charging my batteries, 3 days later they were dead, even with the battery disconnect. I am going to ask my service department to rewire mine also, if they don't, I will install some kind of disconnect that will ensure all power is off myself.