Changing Gate Valve

ted 95 · 10-19-2016, 03:40 AM

One of my gate vales for a Gray tank is leaking. Every time I open the cap to attach the 4" hose there is gray water there. (At least it is not black

) Has anyone ever changed them?? How big a job is it??

Char & Steve · 10-19-2016, 03:45 AM

I think most of them do so I added another gate valve right on the end of the pipe. Lazy Days had one on the shelf. Just hooks on like your sewer hose does and cap fits on the new valve. I just leave it on and spillage is gone.

Steve

travelin' texans · 10-19-2016, 04:38 AM

It's a sandwich valve so remove 4 bolts & cable & pull the center out & replace. The worst part of the job will be getting to the valve.

Shane Wood · 10-19-2016, 05:07 AM

They take about 15 minutes to replace. Another 20 min to drop the Coroplast and reinstall

xtasee · 10-19-2016, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ted 95

One of my gate vales for a Gray tank is leaking. Every time I open the cap to attach the 4" hose there is gray water there. (At least it is not black

) Has anyone ever changed them?? How big a job is it??

My unit is brand new and it also does the same thing.

If this is that common, does taking it in for a warranty repair make any sense? Sometimes I worry that the repair can be worse that the problem but I hate the fact I get about a quart of grey water every time I remove the cap.

I have the Wastemaster system so the end is different than standard. I have not seen a gate valve yet that works at that end....

Shane Wood · 10-19-2016, 04:56 PM

Larry
Go to wastemaster.com and they have different adapters you can get and hook a gate valve up to the plumbing

GTXRAS · 10-19-2016, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtasee

My unit is brand new and it also does the same thing.

If this is that common, does taking it in for a warranty repair make any sense? Sometimes I worry that the repair can be worse that the problem but I hate the fact I get about a quart of grey water every time I remove the cap.

I have the Wastemaster system so the end is different than standard. I have not seen a gate valve yet that works at that end....

We have a gray valve leaking since new also. I asked for it to be fixed while in getting other things fixed. But since it only leaks when traveling, they could not reproduce so no fix.

I also added the gate valve like Steve and a 10in clear extension so I do not have to crawl under to hook up the hose. I added supports on both sides of the valve to support them both.

Rick

travelin' texans · 10-19-2016, 05:26 PM

Some of that running out when removing the cap is what was left in the piping after draining that works out/down during travel, I usually get about a 1/4-1/2 cup every time I travel, but if I remove the hose with the valve shut after filling a bit I get nothing, it all depends on how much piping & bends are between the value & the cap. As far as replacing it under warranty, I'll do it myself before I'd let some of those knucklehead tear it up.

GTXRAS · 10-19-2016, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

Some of that running out when removing the cap is what was left in the piping after draining that works out/down during travel, I usually get about a 1/4-1/2 cup every time I travel, but if I remove the hose with the valve shut after filling a bit I get nothing, it all depends on how much piping & bends are between the value & the cap. As far as replacing it under warranty, I'll do it myself before I'd let some of those knucklehead tear it up.

1/4-1/2 cup would be great. But that only happens when we only go 50-100 miles. Run 4-5 hours and it's a lot more.

GWHoll · 10-19-2016, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTXRAS

1/4-1/2 cup would be great. But that only happens when we only go 50-100 miles. Run 4-5 hours and it's a lot more.

Check Amazon for the Valterra T58 twist on waste valve. Attach it to the end of the line put the cap on it. No more runs, drips, of errors when you pull the cap off, unless you open it first.

ted 95 · 10-20-2016, 01:41 AM

I get a good quart or 2. I also have the wastmaster system. I spoke to my dealer today and he suggested to go with electric gate valves. He said they are more money but for some reason the don't breakdown as much. He also feels the cable type that we have do not help the situation. The same people that make the wastemaster system sell a nice looking gate valve. Will keep posted.

GTXRAS · 10-20-2016, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GWHoll

Check Amazon for the Valterra T58 twist on waste valve. Attach it to the end of the line put the cap on it. No more runs, drips, of errors when you pull the cap off, unless you open it first.

GW, check my post #7.

Rick

markw · 10-21-2016, 03:02 AM

I have found after closing the valve, if I give it another push or two, I only have a 1/4 cup or so. Before the extra push, I was getting much more.

Mark

GWHoll · 10-21-2016, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTXRAS

We have a gray valve leaking since new also. I asked for it to be fixed while in getting other things fixed. But since it only leaks when traveling, they could not reproduce so no fix.

I also added the gate valve like Steve and a 10in clear extension so I do not have to crawl under to hook up the hose. I added supports on both sides of the valve to support them both.

Rick

Great idea on the clear extension and supports. I have always wanted to extend my line out so I wouldn't have to kneel down and crawl under the Redwood to connect the dump line. Thought if I was gonna do that I would add an additional slide valve before the grey line comes into the black, so I could utilize both my grey tanks. Send a picture if you can.

travelin' texans · 10-21-2016, 09:22 PM

0624151521.jpgI was afraid the clear would be damaged by road debris so I added the black extension with a support & used a large band clamp to hold on, I use the clear while dumping. No more crawling under to connect.

GTXRAS · 10-22-2016, 10:20 PM

A little hard to see but the support on the inside is screwed to the frame and the support on the outside of the valve is bolted to the rear support. With the cap on the extension, it is about even with the side. Seems to be stable.

Rick

Rick and Mindy · 10-22-2016, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTXRAS

A little hard to see but the support on the inside is screwed to the frame and the support on the outside of the valve is bolted to the rear support. With the cap on the extension, it is about even with the side. Seems to be stable.

Rick

It looks to me like you still have to get on your hands and knees to open the valve. Why not put the extension on first, then the gate valve, so the valve is at the outside of the rig? You can always add a clear elbow with your hose.

GTXRAS · 10-23-2016, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick and Mindy

It looks to me like you still have to get on your hands and knees to open the valve. Why not put the extension on first, then the gate valve, so the valve is at the outside of the rig? You can always add a clear elbow with your hose.

I think that would put to much weight out there. So far its not a problem getting to the valve.

Rick

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