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Old 06-18-2014, 11:57 PM   #21
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My 13 FB looks like first pics, but not misaligned like the last pic, I've been going to move piece back, just haven't got to it yet. Unless some catastrophe comes up, will not take it to a dealer to screw it up worse.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:03 PM   #22
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I thought this was normal for the RW. We have the 36RL and I believe this is why the front of the fender cracked. Anyone that moved the small piece forward, any paint issues? I may try and move mine this weekend, it was always something that bugged me on such a nice rig. I installed a couple more braces to the fenders since they moved so much too. Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:39 PM   #23
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Once you crack the fender and it gets replaced with a non-painted over a painted piece, you don't care about the misalignment anymore

Kind of like hitting your thumb with a hammer so you won't think about how much your knee hurts! Or better yet, kind of like raising diesel prices from $2.50 to $5.00, so you'll think $3.50 is a bargain!

I was going to cut my smaller piece or move it, but I didn't know what the paint was like behind it. It may look worse with the slides open.

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Old 06-24-2014, 09:45 PM   #24
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I hear ya. Like saying, when you have a blow out and the whole fender is gone, you think you didn't mind the gap so much :-) You have more of an overlap than I do. If I get brave enough to try this weekend, I'll post some pictures.
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:00 PM   #25
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Moved that trim piece back a little over two inches. It was painted underneath, but not clear coated. Now have it lined up. Need to buff that area out today. Ended up using some JB weld plastic mender to fix the cracked piece on the long trim where the misaligned section caused it to crack. Need to sand it down and use some touch up paint on it now. These apron pieces are really fragile.
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:39 PM   #26
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I tried to prevent a problem by adding a rubber spacer behind mine. This helps prevent the wind from catching the fender.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo-1.jpg (178.0 KB, 4 views)
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:42 PM   #27
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Dave, I like that idea. That would add support exactly where it is needed.
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:06 PM   #28
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I bought the rubber cork at Ace hardware for under $1 and then I drilled a hole though it. I used stainless steal bolts, washers and a nylon bushed nut to attach it.

Even on a hot day, this is only a 1 beer, 15 minute project.
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:16 PM   #29
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What a great idea Dave!!!
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:57 PM   #30
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Very nice Dave! Keeps the bottom from rubbing as well.
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:53 PM   #31
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The stopper can also stop the evaporation of old Jack.
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobys Home View Post
The stopper can also stop the evaporation of old Jack.
If you drink it fast enough .....no evaporation.
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