12 volt fuse panel

[Rick and Mindy]

I have recently experienced a problem with my 12 volt light and my 12 volt vent in my bathroom. One day I noticed that the lights and the vent blower quit working so I automatically assumed I lost power to the 5th wheel but noticed that my outlets in the bathroom were still working so I knew that I still had power. I then went to the fuse panel and checked the fuses. I removed the fuse marked for the bathroom but the fuse looked fine. While replacing the same fuse I noticed that the red light next to the fuse flickered on and then off. My light and fan then worked. It happened again so I immediately replaced the fuse but noticed the fuse seemed somewhat loose but still worked. I then pulled several other fuses to see how tight they were and when I removed them the red light next to each one came on until the fuse was replaced. Now when I remove the 15AMP fuse for the bathroom, the red light does not come on. All the other fuses seem tight in their connection. Now my lights and fan do not come on at all. I'm wondering if the panel red lights are designed to tell you when a fuse is blown and also if I just need to crimp the connectors together tighter or do I need to pull the panel to check the backside for a loose connection? Any one else have a similar problem?

[atom ant]

The red light is supposed to tell you there is an open in the circuit, but the way it is designed to detect that, makes it not always reliable.

Definately pull the panel and check all the connections in the back, and the bus bar where all the grounds come back from the 12volt equipment.

[Adamsvr]

Before pulling the panel, turn off your 12Volt battery switch located in the battery compartment and unplug from shore power.

[KenM]

I would say most likely by your issues you have a loose ground wire.

As stated by Adamsvr,



"Before pulling the panel, turn off your 12Volt battery switch located in the battery compartment and unplug from shore power."

[johnboytoo]

And STILL check witha multi meter before going to far...
some have noted even with the master switch off some legs are still hot !

I suspect that that is why my batteries go down even with switch off...

[Rick and Mindy]

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I will definitely turn off all power (shore wise and battery) before removing panel. I was hoping someone would tell me that all I needed to do was crimp the fuse connection but deep inside I figured I would probably have to pull the panel.

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by johnboytoo

And STILL check witha multi meter before going to far...
some have noted even with the master switch off some legs are still hot !

I suspect that that is why my batteries go down even with switch off...

I can't imagine what legs would still be hot. What needs power when the battery is turned off?

[5th_Time]

I had a problem like you describe in my RL's living room. It turns out that a black pigtail on one of theceilinglight fixtures had vibrated out of it'sbeige connector and several lights stopped working. I took the fixtures down one at a time and found the problem. Simply reconnected and all was well. Something to think about...

[johnboytoo]

Originally Posted by Rick and Mindy

I can't imagine what legs would still be hot. What needs power when the battery is turned off?

Agree, Nothing needs power - except there is

it's called miss-wiring maybe ?!?

I guess I'm more leaning toward safety ...
the unloaded gun is the one that kills ya...
the dead circuit can too ...

[KenM]

If wired correctly, when the battery switch is turned off and the shore power is unplugged, no powershould be on.

If the battery switch was not wired properly or was not functional all 12 volt items would still operate including the lights in the coach when the battery switch was turned off.



I understand the safety issues, however if the power battery power remains there is a battery wiring or batteryswitch issue.Edited by: KenM

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by KenM

If wired correctly, when the battery switch is turned off and the shore power is unplugged, no powerÂ*should be on.
Â*If the battery switch was not wired properly or was not functional all 12 volt items would still operate including the lights in the coach when the battery switch was turned off.
Â*
Â*I understand the safety issues, however if the power battery power remains there is a battery wiring or batteryÂ*switch issue.

I am thinking the same thing. I'm not saying that it's not possible to still have power but in my case, I have had my 31sl sitting for several months at a time without being plugged in and have not run the battery down yet. I do agree however, to always be on the safe side. It will be several days before I can check out my panel. I will get back with what I find.

[Adamsvr]

Even if all the A/C and D/C are turned off, there are still capacitors that can produce quite a wallup. Use a volt meter before touching any components on the panel.

[KenM]

The capacitors have resisters on them to drain the power quickly once they are de-energizedto meet UL requirments.

[Adamsvr]

Some do, some don't. I wouldn't bet on it. Redwoods aren't UL Listed.

[atom ant]

Don't trust the master switch. My Montana had a master switch for the batteries that shut everything off...except what it didn't shut off, like the landing gear and slide pump.

[Rick and Mindy]

I've got an idea, how bout I disconnect the battery first?

[atom ant]

There you go. Thats what I had to do on my Montana. However, this redwood has a true disconnect.

[KenM]

I checked both Coleman Airxcel A/C units on my 2013 RW 31SL and they both have bleed off resisters on starting capacitor for the compressor.







Having been in the electrical and heating and air conditioning business for over 30 years, I have not seen a capacitor in anything made in the last 20 years that does not have a bleed off resister.



That being said, being on the side of caution does not hurt.