Bedroom Slide 2012 36RL

[Dave&Ginny]

If you have to....cut the power by disconnecting the batteries and then push it partially out so you can get to that motor. The motors are easier to get to from the inside.

[r time soon]

Dave, He can also remove power going to the slide out motors by disconnecting the small wiring plugs from the controller. And once he gets the room moved where he can work on it, plug them back in to lock the brake on the motor to keep it from moving.

Chris

[Elliott & Vicky]

We were having the same problem, and I was helping the front of the slide in when a DRV owner told me to stop to save the gears and/or motor. He had the same problem and DRV told him to hitch up and raise the jacks before putting in the slide. It works just like it should. I had previously lubricated as instructed by the Schwintec manual, and had followed the directions to "retrain" it with no success. Now I can't open it unless I'm still hooked to the trailer. I'm afraid there may be a problem with the frame. Trying to get it into Crossroads has not been successful. I'm not very happy with them right now.

[Dave&Ginny]

Originally Posted by r time soon

Dave, He can also remove power going to the slide out motors by disconnecting the small wiring plugs from the controller. And once he gets the room moved where he can work on it, plug them back in to lock the brake on the motor to keep it from moving.

Chris

Thanks Chris.....good information.

[sinder]

Note - removing power to the motors does not always allow you to push the slide in manually. In the case of my frozen motor there was no success getting our slide in. In fact the dealer had a hard time removing the motor.

[lwg]

Originally Posted by sinder

Note - removing power to the motors does not always allow you to push the slide in manually. In the case of my frozen motor there was no success getting our slide in. In fact the dealer had a hard time removing the motor.

I would think this is a possible outcome of a failed motor. For the slide to move in or out freely the motor would have to spin freely as well. If it burned up and had a mechanical lockage in the process you'd be screwed for sure.

[GA1817]

An old friend at work always had a saying "come clean". My issues with my BR slide have been healed. It was not an issue of a motor, lack of lubrication, or any maintenance issue, but more of my own ignorance. I only offer the following as a warning to those who may follow me.

As I had mentioned earlier in this thread, I was replacing a cracked wheel on my RW on the BR slide side. I had brought in all of the slides on the RW. In the process I used the level up system to raise the coach enough to raise the wheel off the ground. I must also note that I was not on the most level ground to start with. During the process of bringing the side up the axle dropped which from reading other threads on the forum was what I expected. I changed the wheel out, re-leveled the coach using the auto level and thought everything was OK until I tried to bring the slide out.

To make a long story short I had to move the RW to another portion of the property. During the move I heard the axle re-position itself to its normal (pre-jack up) position. Upon setting the RW up on the new site the slide was fully functional. We went on a short camping trip (first one with the camper) this past weekend and encountered no problems with the slide (it was brought in and out six times). Did encounter one problem with the gas water heater not staying lit but remember a thread on here about running the burners on the stove which cleared that problem up.

My conclusion was that I introduced some temporary flexing in the frame that corrected itself when I moved the RV. In the future I think I will just auto level the unit and then use a bottle jack