Check Your Water Heater Wiring - Page 2

GTXRAS · 12-08-2015, 06:49 PM

The parks we have stayed in lately for more than a couple nights have been plus electric. That's why I did not find this issue sooner. I do not think we have use the electric since the rally.

**Dave&Ginny** · 12-08-2015, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

Thanks Dave, I didn't think of traveling into cold country. So the electric side of the aqua hot is enough to maintain once its hot, or is it not even good for that?

Looking at the Anthem and I thinks its diesel electric only. LP delete.

The electric won't maintain the hot water, it's only intended for washing hands and a few dishes.

The Anthem was about 100k more and is all diesel. The AH does require more maintenance with diesel and if for some reason you get bad fuel, you lose everything. Also the generator as well as the AH will not draw from the fuel tank once you get below 1/4 tank. So when parked you wan to be sure you're level.

We seriously considered the Anthem but we wanted to get our feet wet with the Aspire and see if we liked the MH idea. Now I'm thinking we'll get a Cornerstone within a few years.

atom ant · 12-08-2015, 07:01 PM

I think the Tiffen we are looking at is electric floors, not sure how well those work.

The 1/4 tank thing is common on MH. Gassers have that limit too for the generators. Don't ask how I know.

spindrift · 12-08-2015, 08:30 PM

You two guys talking about all of this MH stuff. You're aging right before my eyes!

**Dave&Ginny** · 12-08-2015, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spindrift

You two guys talking about all of this MH stuff. You're aging right before my eyes!

Tom you're right! I feel old right now. Old and grumpy

spindrift · 12-08-2015, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave&Ginny

Tom you're right! I feel old right now. Old and grumpy

You? Grumpy? Especially this time of year?! C'mon.

GTXRAS · 12-22-2015, 01:23 AM

Finally got the parts and fixed it yesterday. Changed the 12V limit switch just because. The 120V was melted so it got changed. Changed the pressure relief valve as it was leaking and also changed the Anode rod. The Anode rod was almost gone. I was amazed it was that far gone after 10 months. Spent a hour rinsing out the calcium, as much as I could get out anyhow.

Parents have an Atwood water heater and no anode rod. Wonder how much crap is in theirs after 10 years of full time use. Told Dad he needed pull the plug to see if any water would come out.

Rick

5th_Time · 12-22-2015, 01:08 PM

Common problem.
Instant Hot Water would end "dry camping" for people.

atom ant · 12-22-2015, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTXRAS

Finally got the parts and fixed it yesterday. Changed the 12V limit switch just because. The 120V was melted so it got changed. Changed the pressure relief valve as it was leaking and also changed the Anode rod. The Anode rod was almost gone. I was amazed it was that far gone after 10 months. Spent a hour rinsing out the calcium, as much as I could get out anyhow.

Parents have an Atwood water heater and no anode rod. Wonder how much crap is in theirs after 10 years of full time use. Told Dad he needed pull the plug to see if any water would come out.

Rick

Atwood is an all aluminum tank so it doesn't need an anode rod. Suburban is glass over steel so an anode is required to protect against exposed steel because the process isn't perfect. Your parents should drain theirs periodically just to get out any sediment they get from the water supply, but it doesn't have anything to do with the lack of an anode rod.

Interesting description of anode rods by type for those that wonder why their expensive magnesium rod goes away faster than their cheap aluminum one, or why they occasionally get a rotten egg smell from the hot water.

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/anoderods.html

GTXRAS · 12-22-2015, 06:34 PM

Thanks Brad, good info

JerryL · 12-22-2015, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTXRAS

I turned on our electric water heater a couple days ago and after a bit there was a smell of burnt electrical. Found it last night, pulled the cover off the limit switches.

It you look at the black wire just above the metal, you can see where the metal cut the insulation. Think I may change the wires and cut the metal back.

Rick

Thanks for the info. I headed off the problem before it cut, thanks to you. My fix was to just take a pair of pliers and squeeze the metal at the bottom down, making more room and a soft, rolled edge. Thanks to this forum, that's two problems I headed off before damage happened. The first was the washer drain that goes under the bed. Someone said it was prone to leak if not secured good, and it was dripping a little water upon inspection. Fixed it as soon as my coach was delivered.

r time soon · 04-07-2016, 11:15 PM

A few weeks ago I de-winterized our RW to go glamping for Easter weekend. While I was reinstalling the anode rod I decided it was a good time to check my water heater wiring behind the reset cover. My wiring looked fine. But did have the indentations in the wiring insulation as others have mentioned. Again this was not from the metal frame of the water heater itself, but the lip of the reset cover that protrudes inside. It is made of a hard plastic and I just removed 1/4" or so from the top and bottom edges where it needed it and put the cover back on. Should be good to go. Now if Mother Nature would return to spring weather and quit snowing again, we will be out in a few more weeks. Chris

Jeff&Karen39MB · 04-08-2016, 06:19 PM

Thanks to this post, I went out and checked mine, found the black wire had some rub marks on it, also looked at red wires going up top, they looked close also, so took your advise used my pliers and bent both top and bottom back to create a soft edge.
Great post, stopped a potential problem.
Love this community.

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