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10-28-2016, 05:38 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 191
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D-Seal
The D-Seal above my bedroom slide has failed and I need to replace it. I have a 2015 38RL, but I would assume the D-Seal is pretty common among different RWs. The cross section of this seal is not a pure "D", like most of the D-Seals I have seen. It is lopsided. The D-shaped ones seem to be readily available. RW customer service tells me to take it to my dealer and won't give me any more info to order the seal from them. My dealer is 4 hours away, and they rarely fix anything properly.
Questions:
1. Has anyone replaced the lopsided seal with a "normal" D-Seal that fits the track?
2. Has anyone found a source for bulk lopsided D-Seal for a direct replacement?
The screw holding the failed D-Seal came out ( a common problem with all the exterior screws on my RW) which caused about 6 feet of the seal to slip out of the rear of the slide into the wind stream as I was traveling. That tore it up pretty good! I'd sure like to have a hundred feet or so on hand to fix the next one. The RW probably has over a hundred feet of the stuff on the slides.
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2015 38RL with MORryde IS, residential fridge, DW, washer and dryer, generator, and slide in slide. 2 A/C, 1 HP and a fireplace. Added 17.5 inch wheels. Follows a 2013 Ram dually diesel with 8' bed and Reese 20K.
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10-28-2016, 05:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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I had to replace all of the D seals on my Redwood because they got sticky and tore apart. I just got the seals at the Dealer because I was on the road. Not exactly sure what you mean by lopsided, but I replaced like for like. Ironically the top seal on mine slid out and damaged the paint on the way home from my $300 initial annual inspection
Here is a pretty good outlet for all seals, including the wipers:
- RV Windows
The screws at the ends of those seals are just to help with install, the sealant actually holds them in place. I had a heck of a time finding a sealant that would stick to both the paint and the rubber. After 3 fails, the Dealer gave me Goecel MHRV 2300 clear and that worked perfect.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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10-28-2016, 06:31 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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AP Products has most of the seals needed. They even have one that has an offset. I ordered some off of E-Bay by the foot but I'm not sure it is available anymore. AP also sells a new seal that has wings on it. I'm wanting to try it, thinking it may stop the seals from splitting but I haven't found anyone yet that has tried them. The "D" seal is pretty generic but I think there are 2 different sizes so make sure you measure what you have.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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10-28-2016, 06:36 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 191
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Thanks, Brad. My D-Seal fits into a channel that is mounted to the exterior wall. It slides into the channel and the screws on each end tie the seal to the channel to keep it from slipping out. It is a pretty good way to mount the seal, but the seal is definitely not a D-shape. I'm headed to my RW today, so I'll send a pic.
__________________
2015 38RL with MORryde IS, residential fridge, DW, washer and dryer, generator, and slide in slide. 2 A/C, 1 HP and a fireplace. Added 17.5 inch wheels. Follows a 2013 Ram dually diesel with 8' bed and Reese 20K.
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10-28-2016, 07:14 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RW Cal
Thanks, Brad. My D-Seal fits into a channel that is mounted to the exterior wall. It slides into the channel and the screws on each end tie the seal to the channel to keep it from slipping out. It is a pretty good way to mount the seal, but the seal is definitely not a D-shape. I'm headed to my RW today, so I'll send a pic.
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It does slide into the channel and the screws do help keep it in place, but that seal should be caulk where it meets the side of the RV. That caulking is what really keeps it in place. The sag you are talking about across the top may be from Redwood or someone using the wrong size "D" seal. If the larger "D" seal was used, it could sag. Pics would be great.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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10-28-2016, 07:57 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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Ya, this is what mine had. As Rick said, my screw wouldn't hold them, it required the sealant.
I did see offset one when looking for this, hadn't seen them before. Interesting.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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10-28-2016, 09:41 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 191
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Here is a pic of mine. It is 1" across the base. I have found a similar cross section on a website, but they want $3.50 a foot.
I think the channel the seal fits in is metal, but it is hard to get at to photograph. If I need to caulk the top edge of it, I'm going to have to remove the slide awnings unless someone has an alternative.
Thanks for all the help.
__________________
2015 38RL with MORryde IS, residential fridge, DW, washer and dryer, generator, and slide in slide. 2 A/C, 1 HP and a fireplace. Added 17.5 inch wheels. Follows a 2013 Ram dually diesel with 8' bed and Reese 20K.
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10-28-2016, 09:59 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 191
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The best price I have seen is from RV Slideout EK D Seal - 1" x 15/16" x 35' - Black
This is the normal cross section D-Seal from AP.
__________________
2015 38RL with MORryde IS, residential fridge, DW, washer and dryer, generator, and slide in slide. 2 A/C, 1 HP and a fireplace. Added 17.5 inch wheels. Follows a 2013 Ram dually diesel with 8' bed and Reese 20K.
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10-28-2016, 11:00 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RW Cal
Here is a pic of mine. It is 1" across the base. I have found a similar cross section on a website, but they want $3.50 a foot.
I think the channel the seal fits in is metal, but it is hard to get at to photograph. If I need to caulk the top edge of it, I'm going to have to remove the slide awnings unless someone has an alternative.
Thanks for all the help.
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Ya, yours is closer to what I had than my pic. I pulled one from the internet to show the track. I remember they were large and thin like the ones in your pic. I wish I could remember what the Dealer charged, but I don't as it was a few years ago. I don't think it was 3.50 a ft or I might have balked and looked at warranty.
Slide toppers, that is a problem. I didn't have them. If you brought the slide in a bit, is there enough slack to crawl in there pushing up on the topper? That would be a pain to remove them. I honestly might be inclined to seal what I could at the ends, and let the topper do it's job for the rest!.......... maybe I would, I don't know - probably not.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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10-28-2016, 11:14 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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I just looked them up on Amazon - $79.53 for 35 feet.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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10-28-2016, 11:16 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atom ant
Ya, yours is closer to what I had than my pic. I pulled one from the internet to show the track. I remember they were large and thin like the ones in your pic. I wish I could remember what the Dealer charged, but I don't as it was a few years ago. I don't think it was 3.50 a ft or I might have balked and looked at warranty.
Slide toppers, that is a problem. I didn't have them. If you brought the slide in a bit, is there enough slack to crawl in there pushing up on the topper? That would be a pain to remove them. I honestly might be inclined to seal what I could at the ends, and let the topper do it's job for the rest!.......... maybe I would, I don't know - probably not.
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Good idea to pull in the slide a bit to see if I can get in there. Most of the sites I've looked at are around 3.50 or higher. I have only found one that had the cross section and wall thickness like mine. Now, if I could only remember which site it was!
I'd imagine a normal D cross section would work, but I would prefer to use OEM in case it decided to leak.
I'll let y'all know what I end up doing. This has to be an issue with everyone eventually.
__________________
2015 38RL with MORryde IS, residential fridge, DW, washer and dryer, generator, and slide in slide. 2 A/C, 1 HP and a fireplace. Added 17.5 inch wheels. Follows a 2013 Ram dually diesel with 8' bed and Reese 20K.
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10-28-2016, 11:24 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 191
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Thanks, Rick. They also have a 100 footer for around 2 bucks a foot. I'm thinking of going this way, since the size should be ok and the D shape can't be that far off. (famous last words!)
__________________
2015 38RL with MORryde IS, residential fridge, DW, washer and dryer, generator, and slide in slide. 2 A/C, 1 HP and a fireplace. Added 17.5 inch wheels. Follows a 2013 Ram dually diesel with 8' bed and Reese 20K.
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10-28-2016, 11:43 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RW Cal
Thanks, Rick. They also have a 100 footer for around 2 bucks a foot. I'm thinking of going this way, since the size should be ok and the D shape can't be that far off. (famous last words!)
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When I researched mine, I found that all the "D" seals are the AP product. The same product is just sold by different retailers. I have never found a "D" seal made by someone else. Did you go to AP Product website and see their offset seal? Also look at the new seal that they have come out with that has the wings on it.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
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10-29-2016, 05:38 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RW Cal
Here is a pic of mine. It is 1" across the base. I have found a similar cross section on a website, but they want $3.50 a foot.
I think the channel the seal fits in is metal, but it is hard to get at to photograph. If I need to caulk the top edge of it, I'm going to have to remove the slide awnings unless someone has an alternative.
Thanks for all the help.
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Could your seal have sagged into this shape?
Mark
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2013 36RE, 2008 GMC 3500CC DRW
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10-29-2016, 05:47 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,032
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The seal in the pic looks like the regular Don but is miss shaped from being compressed by the slide
__________________
2015 36RL pushing a 2015 Denali
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10-29-2016, 08:53 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 308
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D seal
Quote:
Originally Posted by RW Cal
Here is a pic of mine. It is 1" across the base. I have found a similar cross section on a website, but they want $3.50 a foot.
I think the channel the seal fits in is metal, but it is hard to get at to photograph. If I need to caulk the top edge of it, I'm going to have to remove the slide awnings unless someone has an alternative.
Thanks for all the help.
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If you go on you tube and put in RV awning slide removal and replace, several slides come up under different RV slides, it shows you how to release your slide awning and lock spring with a screw driver, which will allow you total access to top of slide, so you can replace seal, caulk and then re attach awning, hope this helps.
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10-29-2016, 10:11 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff&Karen39MB
If you go on you tube and put in RV awning slide removal and replace, several slides come up under different RV slides, it shows you how to release your slide awning and lock spring with a screw driver, which will allow you total access to top of slide, so you can replace seal, caulk and then re attach awning, hope this helps.
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Thanks, Jeff. That really helps!
__________________
2015 38RL with MORryde IS, residential fridge, DW, washer and dryer, generator, and slide in slide. 2 A/C, 1 HP and a fireplace. Added 17.5 inch wheels. Follows a 2013 Ram dually diesel with 8' bed and Reese 20K.
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10-30-2016, 09:17 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 128
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My top seals were starting to come apart near the ends, Looks like there were too large and when slide was closed, they were smashed good. So far I have replaced the curb side top only (AP 018-312-EKD - 35ft - about $90.00) and its a little smaller "D" and seems to work a lot better, since its not smashed as much when closed. I did use a good clear sealant (Dap 3.0 Gutter and Flashing, Crystal Clear) and seems to stick to both the rubber and side wall. I do not have Slide Toppers nor Full body Paint. Time will tell if the rubber size and sealant type work better then the OEM.
Also the end seals (left and right) seem to be holding up a lot better than the top seal.
Next project will be doing the same thing to the kitchen slide. (bedroom slide seems to be holding up good, all the way around)
Good Luck!!
__________________
2015 F350 DRW, 2015 Sequoia SQ38HRL, G614's, Titan Disk Brakes, Trail-Air Flex Air pin box, SRE4000 w/ X-brace, Heavy Duty Shackle Straps w/ Wet Bolts & New Springs.. Now I am done for awhile.
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10-31-2016, 05:40 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick and Mindy
I just looked them up on Amazon - $79.53 for 35 feet.
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I bought 50' box from amazon like 100 bucks
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11-03-2016, 12:07 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 141
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What brand or kind of caulk.....and is it on amazon?? also
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