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Old 11-05-2014, 05:34 PM   #21
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Mark, how do you check your wrench?
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:47 PM   #22
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I send my torque wrenches directly to Snap-on. I don't know if they calibrate the wrenches in-house or send them out.
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:54 PM   #23
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Ya I couldn't afford a Snap-On, and I don't think my Pep Boys wrench is calibratable
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:01 PM   #24
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I caught up with the local truck one day at a place I knew he stopped. He checked it in the truck. He had a torque meter on the wall. Two pulls on different settings while I watched. Both, on the money. Only recently have I bought a few things from Harbor Freight. I won't buy their power tools or anything like a torque wrench.

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Old 11-05-2014, 10:12 PM   #25
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Truth be told if they're fairly tight but not much over the recommended torque you'll likely never have issues. Much over the recommended torque could cause a number of issues most of which would lead to early part failure of some type.

In my experience the only place that exact torque is necessary on machinery is within the drivetrain, which does not include wheels, etc.

Once upon a time I was a certified Aircraft Mechanic (A&P). They torque everything to exact measurements, when the exact torque isn't known you reference the standardized torque values for the particular fastener you're working with. And if that weren't enough you safety line everything. I suppose it is difficult to get those planes to land on clouds though when there's a failure...
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Old 11-05-2014, 10:16 PM   #26
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I send my torque wrenches directly to Snap-on. I don't know if they calibrate the wrenches in-house or send them out.
Unfortunately this is the only way to ensure accurate torque. Also always store your torque wrench in zero torque setting to prolong life. For this reason I just budget for a new torque wrench every couple of years as while I have a lot of Snap On tools I don't have one of their torque wrenches. Those guys are uber expensive for a hobby mechanic!
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:02 AM   #27
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I know it's in the forum, but I can't seem to find the torque values I should be using.
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Old 11-06-2014, 02:22 PM   #28
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110 ft. lbs.??
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Old 11-06-2014, 02:26 PM   #29
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Depends on the stud size - Mine are 140 I believe but I have the 8K with disk.
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Old 11-06-2014, 07:17 PM   #30
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I know it's in the forum, but I can't seem to find the torque values I should be using.
Per the attached Lippert manual the 9/16" studs/lug nuts should be tightened to 120 to 130 lb-ft.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Lippert axles and brakes.pdf (901.4 KB, 56 views)
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Old 02-16-2015, 06:04 AM   #31
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Taking my 36RL in for an annual inspection this next Friday to satisfy the requirements for a warranty forever policy which came from my dealer when the unit was purchased. How important is it to follow the process on page 52 of the owners manual regarding step 2 retorque after 10, 25, and 50 miles intervals once the wheels are reinstalled? Curious to know if anyone follows the procedure? Thanks
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Old 02-16-2015, 01:23 PM   #32
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Honestly, I'll check torque only after wheels have been removed and after I have driven the first couple of hundred miles. Then, only for my Spring and Fall inspections.
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Old 02-16-2015, 01:57 PM   #33
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I check mine 3 or 4 times a season. The most important time is after they've been removed and the trailer pulled a hundred miles. The aluminum wheels are "spongy" and getting them torqued down after being mounted is the issue.

I've never really had much of an issue
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:51 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Mega Red View Post
Taking my 36RL in for an annual inspection this next Friday to satisfy the requirements for a warranty forever policy which came from my dealer when the unit was purchased. How important is it to follow the process on page 52 of the owners manual regarding step 2 retorque after 10, 25, and 50 miles intervals once the wheels are reinstalled? Curious to know if anyone follows the procedure? Thanks
I just changed out a cracked wheel. I torqued all of the nuts down. I checked them after going about twenty five miles and several were fairly loose. If i was you and the wheels have been taken off I would follow the manual.
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Old 02-18-2015, 01:43 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Red View Post
Taking my 36RL in for an annual inspection this next Friday to satisfy the requirements for a warranty forever policy which came from my dealer when the unit was purchased. How important is it to follow the process on page 52 of the owners manual regarding step 2 retorque after 10, 25, and 50 miles intervals once the wheels are reinstalled? Curious to know if anyone follows the procedure? Thanks
Please note, annual inspections are no longer required (for redwood anyway)
http://www.redwoodowners.com/forums/...4476#post44476

but may be for your aftermarket secondary policy...
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Old 02-21-2015, 05:44 PM   #36
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When the wheels are removed and replaced, you should restart the torqueing sequence, but once you finish its finished. If you constantly check them with a less than high quality torque wrench it ends up pretty easy to over-torque them, which can have equally bad effects (stretch studs, mushroom nut wells, etc.)
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