Dump Valave Cables

[mesg]

any one know as to what length the cables and handles are? We have a 2013 36fl and for the third time.. all 3 cables need to be replaced..SOON..

First time.. 6 months old.. warranty... second time.. just dropped the trailer at Can Am Rv in London On and said fix it... now, i broke the black tank valve/cable today.. and both the gray tank handles are tough as all heck to open and close. Since rotflmao the so called (warranty ) is up...im going to tackle this and fix it right..

Suggestions??? replace the entire valve assembly?? as well as the cables? It seems odd to me to have to replace the cables so often. Our Carriage and Mobile Suites units never even needed lubricating. and worked perfectly after 3 years. and still do..(our daughters own them now)

My expierience with electric valves.. has not been pleasant.. so i will ?? be replacing with a manual valve again. Suggestions other than the Valterra?

[travelin' texans]

The replacement cables are a standard length, 3-4. If I were guessing, they don't need replaced just realigned so they aren't in a bind. Also guessing you didn't break the cable but pulled it loose from the valve, it's held in place with a set screw.

[hoosierguy]

Danny,

I hadn't had any problems with the cables or valves in nearly 5 years of ownership, but, that is one of my Redwood jobs to come up before long. When coming home from Florida in March, the black tank valve cable came loose. Thanks for mentioning that a set screw holds the cable. I hope that is all that is wrong. I had noticed on the previous attempt to dump in Florida that the valve seemed to be very, very stiff to operate. At my last campground stop before arriving home, I went to do a final dump and when I opened the extra, external valve at the main drain, there was immediate black tank effluent before I opened the main black tank valve. I checked the main black tank valve and discovered a loose cable. Grrrrrrrr. I thought maybe it had broken. Maybe the set screw just came loose.

Guy

[mesg]

yup been there... my black tank cable actually broke again.. 18 inches or so from the handle. and the other 2 are very very stiff.. ( all are less than 1 year old). the set screw/adjustment clip..cable assembly. are seriously corroded ( I snapped off the cable set screw for the black tank line this am nothing much left of it other than a whitish mount of corrosion)... and need to be replaced again. I have owned many rv`s (coaches and towables)... this is number 15 for us, and never have had so many problems.. not just with the cables.. but over all. Even in Canada with our weather extremes, these cables should last more than 1 year.. the next 3 weeks or less... ( I hope).. i will fix what should have been done.. at the factory. ( yes we have major plumbing and electrical issues still).

and fyi.. the black tank cable length for our 2013 36fl.. is 72 inches. I measured it this am...

So nice to see that there is NO INSULATION..anywhere.. around any of the holding/freshwater tanks... and the heated tank??? pads... ARE NOT THERE.....!!!!!! pics to follow.

[mesg]

all fixed.

Removed all 3 cable, all the same length (6 foot), all 3 are the eye bolt/hook type., All 3 are a single solid wire strand inside a cable sleeve.

All cable were only secured at the valve itself and the t pull handle.!!!!

I removed all 3, and filled the inside of the sleeve with silicone lubricant.. even the new $40 replacement for the black tank.

What broke was the eye bolt on the valve, and the chromed hook that was welded on the end of the steel shaft/wire (pull cable)

Now for the sad news, none of the cables were anchored/secured any where, except at the valve itself and the t pull handle at the side service area. This allows for a lot of flexing/movement for the assembly, resulting in extreme effort to open the valve. 12 plastic wire straps later. all is good!
In re-positioning the cables, I corrected the angle into which the cable attached to the dump valve. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!

The set screws that are on the black tank only..allow for the addition?? im guessing for either a second t handle or power type actuator. (which is what i first saw after cutting into the underbelly). this cable assembly(wire type) and the mount on the valve rod.. are now gone.

[GWHoll]

Personally I hate the fact that you have to remove some of the belly pan in order to work on any of the slide gate valves. I have considered rebuilding that system and leaving the existing valves but putting new valves (either cable or not) under the belly pan. I would put a valve on the grey water before it enters the black water pipe, this way I could utilize both my grey water tanks (the front one is only used for the washer, which I do not have installed). So basically I would install the one grey slide valve and one black slide valve and one near the final outlet. Anyone done this before?

[sinder]

Yes I added a valve just before my hose so I could have 90 gal of grey. The only thing you have to remember is to not let water sit in the exposed plumbing during a freeze.