Electrical Protection

[mhs4771]

Sounds like they put in the wrong instructions, sounds like you have the install sheet from a 30 amp EMS not a 50.

[Jim & Mary]

Brad

I just relocated my Progressive digital readout from the battery compartment to the cabinet where all the slideout controls are and let me tell you it was a *****. I had to buy a longer data cable but getting through the basement compartment with it was a huge hassle. Now that it's done I'm glad though.

[Jim & Mary]

I agree with Michelle, just looked at my installation instructions for EMS-HW50C and it says Always use # 6 wire. You must have been looking at the instructions for the 30A kit.

[atom ant]

Originally Posted by Jim & Mary

Brad

I just relocated my Progressive digital readout from the battery compartment to the cabinet where all the slideout controls are and let me tell you it was a *****. I had to buy a longer data cable but getting through the basement compartment with it was a huge hassle. Now that it's done I'm glad though.

Uh oh, well I should clarify. He "should" be able to, but it sounds like it will be a pain in the keester! Kind of makes me glad I didn't get the remote, although it would be fun to watch what its doing.

ShawnAZ10,
If it turns out Progressive misprinted the directions - tell them they need to fire that entire staff. What does it take to proof read something?? jee-zoots. As I said, my directions were black and white and showed the unit upside down so when I went to wire it I realized they printed it wrong and I had to tear it all back out and rotate it. All they said when I told them was "sorry (giggle) - we know that". With those kind of sloppy instructions out there, they are going to cause a fire! or hurt somebody! Ironically they are setting you you for a more harsh failure than the entire device is trying to prevent!

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by ShawnAZ10

Finally installed, and you were so right on the PITA part! Wow, I was drenched today installing it. When you bought a new section of wire (I did the same thing) did you buy 10 gauge or 6? Progressive said always use 10 gauge (that's what I bought) but transfer switch called out 6 gauge. I installed the 10, I believe I'm good, but just checking in.

Are you sure that you have the correct Progressive Model? There is a 50 Amp and 30 Amp model. There appears to be two 50 Amp models (EMS-LCHW50 and EMS-HW50C) and two 30 Amp models (EMS-LCHW30 and EMS-HW30C) on the Progressive web site.

[mhs4771]

I was wondering the same, if by chance they sent the wrong unit.
As to the remote display, not that really hard to route from control panel inside to the battery compartment. I did it on our 2012 RL and on our MB, a bit of a pain, but well worth it when you can see why it shut you down. Plus it's good to keep track of the current draws if you're on a 30 amp site.

[RCAircraft]

Originally Posted by ShawnAZ10

Thank you all for your input. I've been looking into various setups over last couple of weeks and decided to go with the progressive hard wired EMS first (Made in the USA and comes with lifetime warranty). If I find it shutting me down due to too many low voltage situations in the parks we go to, I'll add an Autoformer or Franks voltage booster (both Made in USA) later and I believe they both have built in surge protection to protect their devices so that takes away the argument of what to put in front of what. Either of these voltage boosters can work freely while staying protected in front of the electronic management system that will shut it down if below 104 volts. The outside voltage would have to be way down there to shut the Progressive EMS down with either booster in front.

The main alternative is TRC. The company has a simple surge protection, an electronic management system like Progressive (its ems is cheaper than Progressive but does not offer lifetime warranty and not made in usa like Progressive) and a voltage regulator. Be aware that if you are looking at their Surge Guard Voltage Regulator, from what I have read, despite its name, it doesn't have any surge protection at all (and TRC, for those of whom it matters, isn't made in usa, like Autoformer or Franks).

My buddy had his TRC Surge Guard Voltage Regulator fry on him. He thought there was surge protection built in it over the last few years he had it, but it smoked. Those systems are around $650, you would think they would have a simple surge protection built in.

Very confusing topic to dive into as there are actually three different systems: 1)simple surge protection, 2)an electronic management system that shuts your electrical down if below or over specific voltage inputs and 3)a voltage regulator that boosts voltage going into your coach if voltage gets too low where it can damage your electrical equipment in your home.

I am no expert, if anything I have written is refutable please correct me as I'm still learning. Thank you all again for your help, and sorry about the length of this post!

Shawn - you are spot on with the various types of "protection" devices.

[JT & BT]

We have the Progressive Surge Protector. An Excellent choice for your RV and what I think is definitely required. You don't know what you are plugging into at various RV parks around the country. Older RV parks have probably never been upgraded in terms of wiring and load requirements that our new RV's demand!

The Progressive Surge has a Lifetime Guarantee also! A BIG PLUS! Anything goes wrong with your Progressive unit, they will replace it! Unlike others that have a limited warranty and will not replace the unit if something happens to it.

We pay megabucks for these RV's and spending $350 to $400 is cheap insurance!

Also, remember to purchase a good Cable Lock for the unit and ensure it is secured to the power pole. These units are often stolen from RV Parks when the owners aren't around!

[Hookpilot]

All - Thank you for this post. My wife and I have recently purchased a 38RL as our first RV. We are going to take it on it's maiden voyage April 15 but are going to move it to Redstone Arsenal RV park, Huntsville, AL for a couple weeks first to shake things out, get it packed (live in a neighborhood we cant get the RV into) and spend a few nights before the trip. Figured that way if we have questions we can either ask the dealership or a great couple we met that have a 36RL there in the park.
I have read several places that we need a surge protector so I just ordered the EMS-HW50C. I think with the pictures Bad posted and the comments from all even I can install this device (I hope without screwing it up).
Thanks again
Keith Freitag

[coloradolivin]

If you got the remote display, I routed mine to the convenience center for easy reading

[mhs4771]

I have my remote display mounted in the same panel as the Slide, water pump, water heater, generator, switches.

[ET156]

Originally Posted by ShawnAZ10

A friend of mine told me it would be a good idea to get a surge protector and voltage regulator to protect all of my electrical devices. He just purchased Technology Research 34850 Portable Surge Guard and TR's 10175 Voltage Regulator. I know that Progressive and Autoformer make similar products and was wondering what the forum thought about the ideal set up to protect our homes. It's a several hundred dollar purchase, want to get this right You would think that when you bought a Redwood that there would be some surge protection built in and you wouldn't need it. Any help would be great, thank you!

A lot of parks do not allow power boosters. I have been to parks that have a sign at the check in office that said no boosters allowed.

[spindrift]

My understanding is that these devices are not really "boosters", in the technical sense. If the unit senses voltage outside of its parameters, it will simply shut down the AC feed to the coach.

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by spindrift

My understanding is that these devices are not really "boosters", in the technical sense. If the unit senses voltage outside of its parameters, it will simply shut down the AC feed to the coach.

That's exactly how mine works. If voltage is too high or too low then it will shut off power and will not come back on until the voltage goes back to normal. Last year I had an Arkansas State park try and tell me that it was my surge protector that was causing my electrical issues. When the park maintenance guy checked the post with his voltage meter he could see the voltage jumping up and down. He recommended I disconnect my surge protector so my power would stay on. I asked him if he was going to pay for any damages to electrical components in my fifth wheel and he laughed. Needless to say,I kept the surge protector connected and let it do its thing. I will not go back there anytime soon.

[atom ant]

I think the park restrictions are on the autoformer like this:

https://hughesautoformers.com/

They are just a giant transformer that claims it steps up voltage 2% up to 10%.

[mhs4771]

Autoformers do work, but are too heavy for most of us to carry around. I guess if you didn't have the generator option, you could mount one it the genny compartment hardwired in, that way no one would even know that it was there.

[spindrift]

Why do parks reject them?

[mhs4771]

Most likely the Park doesn't understand the function. It's just a large transformer to help boost up the low voltage found in some parks. It's that low voltage that can damage ACs and other sensitive electronics.

[spindrift]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

Most likely the Park doesn't understand the function.

That's exactly what I was thinking. Seems to be a win-win for everyone. It's not like you're backfeeding into their system. Truthfully, never saw a park that said you couldn't use them and the only time I've ever seen one was at a Camping World store.

[travelin' texans]

I've not seen any park that doesnt allow those, but have been to several that don't allow the "Y" plug that supposedly gives you 50amps by plugging into the 30 & 20.