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02-20-2012, 02:26 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,811
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This may not be the case, but the Lippert Frames and Hydraulic Slide system used on the Montanas have been having problems for years. The solution from Keystone (but not done during mfr)is to add a second Auto Reset Breaker in parallel with the factory breaker. Those Pumps can draw in excess of 80 Amps under load, thus a 50 Amp Breaker is not enough. I added the second breaker to our Montana and haven't had a problem since.
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Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD Crew Cab High Country DRW, D/A, 2016 RW39MB, Dual ACs, Auto Level, Auto Sat Dish, Stack W/D, King Sleep #, 17.5" Sailuns w/Disc, MORryde IS & Pin, Comfort Ride Hitch, 5.5 Onan, Res Fridge & Induction Cook Top
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02-20-2012, 02:40 PM
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#22
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5,407
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That's good information to have but I'd be worried it might void the warranty, tampering with the electrical system. I'd hope the company can find a fix so we don't have to. I'm a gear head by nature so if they don't fix it than I'll get my trusty tools out and perfect the system myself
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SOB "The RV Wiseguy"
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02-20-2012, 03:22 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 28
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Please see my previous post from January 14th. I had problems with the 10 amp fuse too, but discovered my problem was self-inflicted. My Level Up System worked just fine until I retracted the main slides a second or two longer than I should have (past the point wherethe hydraulic pump motor started to labor). That overloaded circuit blew the 10 amp fuse that I had previously assumed to be for the Level Up system only.
The dealter replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 10 amp circuit breaker. I am also now conditioned to stop retracting the main slides just as soon as the pump motor starts to labor. Everything has worked fine since.
Fortunately... this all happened to me at the dealership and not out on the road somewhere...
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02-20-2012, 03:41 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 959
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I guess I'm a little puzzeled are they using the 10 amp fusefor just the controller or the whole system pump and all? if the pump can draw as much as 80 amps its a wonder they put a ten amp fuse in at all.
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"75 FEET OF FUN ON THE RUN"
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02-20-2012, 04:06 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 28
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Not quite sure how a hydraulic pump can possibly draw more current that two roof-top air conditioners ??? 80 amps ????? The trailer's power supply is only 50 amps.
Not sure how... But the main slides and the landing/leveling gear bothrun off hydraulic pump AND the 10 amp fuse that protects that pump also powers the Level-Up System control panel.
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02-20-2012, 04:13 PM
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#26
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5,407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balorenz
Please see my previous post from January 14th. I had problems with the 10 amp fuse too, but discovered my problem was self-inflicted. My Level Up System worked just fine until I retracted the main slides a second or two longer than I should have (past the point wherethe hydraulic pump motor started to labor). That overloaded circuit blew the 10 amp fuse that I had previously assumed to be for the Level Up system only.
The dealter replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 10 amp circuit breaker. I am also now conditioned to stop retracting the main slides just as soon as the pump motor starts to labor. Everything has worked fine since.
Fortunately... this all happened to me at the dealership and not out on the road somewhere...
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I like the circuit breaker idea...otherwize I'll have to attach some sort of electrical shock to the button so whomever holds the button too long gets a little buzz. If this doesn't solve the problem at least it would be entertaining after a few shot of Jack.
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SOB "The RV Wiseguy"
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02-20-2012, 04:50 PM
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#27
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,342
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On my 36RL, I had to get up inside the equipment bay at the front of the coach; a somewhat tight sqeeze. I then followed the cables for the Level-Up control system by running my hand along the cables from the main level sensor, that is mountedon the ceiling of the equipment bay in the center of the coach, to the hydraulic pump motor. The fuse pod was actually "hidden" because it was on the back side of cable about 12 to 16 inches above the pump motor and I only found it becuase I could feel the pod when my hand came down that cable.I could not actually seethe poduntil I pulled it around the cable to the front side. The pump motor and hydraulic valve assembly is on the right wall of the equipment bay. It took me a couple of evenings working with a trouble light up inside that equipment bay to get a little understandingof everything I was seeing there.
I also have noticed that you can hear the pump motor starting to load up extra when he slides reach their limit going in or out. It may be that is when the motor is starting to pull more current. That scenario goes along with when I found the fuse blown. The next time I tried to power up the leveling system, there was no power to the control panel. Itmay be thtatthe fuse sizing is just marginal and occasionally the motor draws enough current to make the fuse blow (in that case the fuse could probably be increased in Amps by a step or two). I think I will try my factory rep again to call their attention to all the posts on this problem.
Guy
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Guy & Phyllis
2012 RW36RL,DualA/C,KodiakDiskBrakes,TrailAir Tri-Glide,GY_G614's,Roadmaster Comfort Ride Slipper Spring Suspension
2011Dodge3500Laramie,CrewCab,4x4,SRW,Michelins, LongBed,6.7LCTD,3.73,PullRiteSuper5th20.5KHitch, BlueOxBedsaver
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02-20-2012, 05:08 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 959
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Balorenz the power to the ac's is 110 volt AC and the hydrolic pump runs on 12 volt DC power. The DC power converter puts out as much as 100 amps DC. Hope that helps. Dave & Ginny I agree and I,m a Templeton man my self.
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"75 FEET OF FUN ON THE RUN"
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02-20-2012, 05:29 PM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 50
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Hi all,
With some help from Our dealer service dept. I found the well camouflaged culprit fuse that had my levelup system shut down. It was labeled as a 15 amp. I talked with Brian at Redwood and Asked if there was a fix for this fuse blowing epidemic and he thought that there had been a wiring change made to minimize the problem on new units but did not known that for sure. He was going to do some research to see if replacing the fuse with a resettable fuse would be ok and not effect warranties. I was aware of others posts about holding the actuator buttons a bit too long and feel like I didn't make that mistake unless the system is very sensitive to a minor infraction. So, I agree with others that Redwood would be doing us all a favor by offering up a preventative solution.
Safe travels to everyone and Happy Presidents Day
Brett
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Brett and Jan
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02-20-2012, 05:42 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 959
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I thought read a post about the factory installing a breaker in place of the fuse as a response to the problem fuse blowing.
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"75 FEET OF FUN ON THE RUN"
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02-20-2012, 09:02 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 506
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I installed a 10 amp reset fuse and have not had any problems.
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02-20-2012, 10:04 PM
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#32
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5,407
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Does a reset fuse fit into the same fuse holder?
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SOB "The RV Wiseguy"
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02-20-2012, 10:21 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 506
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Yes. I just picked one up at an auto store. You should already have similar 35 amp self reset fuse inline down by the hydraulics, so you can see what it looks like installed.
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03-02-2012, 08:07 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 467
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According to Brian, at the factory. they have resolved the level up fuse problem.
Lillyputz
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36RE Redwood LEMON
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