Lubing EquaFlex

[Rick and Mindy]

OK, I give up. I have searched thru all of the LCi literature I can find and I can't find anything about lubing the EquaFlex unit between the springs. There are about 5 zerks on these systems but how often and what type of grease should be used? One of my EquaFlexes is actually missing a grease Zerk and as a result looks like not much grease was ever put into that bolt. Any suggestions on what type of grease and how much to use and how often?

[RAMN8TER]

Funny you bring this up. When I dropped my RW off to the dealer, this was one of the items I want them to do. I got the deer in the headlight look. I even showed the tech where they are located.

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by RAMN8TER

Funny you bring this up. When I dropped my RW off to the dealer, this was one of the items I want them to do. I got the deer in the headlight look. I even showed the tech where they are located.

I thought sure I would find a reference to lubing these in the LCi information but I even went to their website and searched and searched and I still couldn't find info on lubing them. I could find parts lists and info on how they work but nothing on lubing them. If I didn't see the zerks I never would've known that they should be greased. It seems like for being such an important part of the chassis there would be info on it.

[NW Snowbirds]

Here is the brochure. Suggest you look at below for a complete understanding:

http://www.redwoodrvowners .com/redwo...num=1406912664

[markw]

I wouldn't expect they should, would need to be greased more than once a year. That said you should see about getting that missing zerk replaced. Ordinary chassie grease or what you would use for the wheel bearings.

Mark

[TnB]

On my previous Heartland, I had the wet bolts installed by LCI after a rally. About a year latter I attempted to grease these fittings. A couple would not take grease.

As shown in figure 3 in the LCI instruction sheet, the grease hole should be at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock. So a couple of mine may have been installed incorrectly.

If you have this problem, you can get grease into the wet bolt by slightly jacking up your frame. You only need to go high enough to relieve some of the weight on the wet bolts. The wet bolts will then take grease.

Since this is not an active system, I think the main purpose is to get grease on the bushings during servicing. There is no active component to push grease on the bushings as you go down the road.

Jacking up the frame is a minor inconvenience, but it will allow you to grease your bushings periodically.

[atom ant]

jacking up the frame is a piece of cake anymore with the 6 pt.

[travelin' texans]

While doing routine maintenance I decided to check shackles & try to determine why a couple of those zerks wouldn't take grease & low & behold found that the bushings on both spring ends were plastic not bronze, I was very disappointed, so I ordered the MorRyde wet bolt kit with the 1/2" thick shackles. Can't figure why they used wet bolts with plastic bushings, Oh yes I do, $$$, silly me.

[travelin' texans]

Got my wet bolts at noon today & finished the door side. The new shackles are VERY beefy & should last as long as I will tow it. The process took approximately 2 hours & worked out very well. The plastic bushings on the outer spring ends were pretty well shot, the center ones were pretty good shape.

[travelin' texans]

Guess I can't send pics straight.
Anyhow here's a couple pics, notice the plastic bushings!

[lwg]

Are the replacement parts plastic as well?

[travelin' texans]

No, all the bushings are now bronze.

[lwg]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

No, all the bushings are now bronze.

I wonder when they switched to that?

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

No, all the bushings are now bronze.

Danny,

How did you press out the old bushings and press in the new bushings? I haven't looked at these closely enough to know if they can be pushed out with a wood dowel and hammer or if you need an arbor press or can use a large C-clamp and pin to push out the bushings. Just curious as to how you did the job.

Guy

[travelin' texans]

Guy, the plastic bushings (or what's left of them) came out easily with my jack handle & hammer. I used an 8" c-clamp to press in new bronze bushings after lubing spring eyes & bushings. The install was very easy & simple, good quality product. Total install was 4-5 hours & other than this fat boy crawling around under there for that long it was not a bad job.

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

Guy, the plastic bushings (or what's left of them) came out easily with my jack handle & hammer. I used an 8" c-clamp to press in new bronze bushings after lubing spring eyes & bushings. The install was very easy & simple, good quality product. Total install was 4-5 hours & other than this fat boy crawling around under there for that long it was not a bad job.

Danny, Thanks for the information. I definitely will be looking at this project next spring when I return home. I have the tools there to take on this job. Also, I hear what you are saying about crawling around under the trailer. Since I had one of knees replaced 4 years ago, it has not been as easy to get down and move around.

Guy