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06-13-2014, 05:03 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 38
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Onan install
So I'm getting around to installing my 5500 onan generator and had a couple of questions. For those who have the factory install, does the battery cables, fuel hose and power cords all run across the top of the generator and exit the metal box on the right side Or do all of the cables and fuel hose run through the left side of the firebox?
If anyone had a pic to share that would be awesome.
Thanks in advance,
David
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06-13-2014, 06:13 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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David,
I did my own. I ran the fuel supply in from the top of the box down the left side. I also ran the high voltage cable the same route. The fuel line and high voltage cable are exposed on the left inside of the box, but are secured to the bulkhead above the box after that.
A ran the battery cables along the bottom front inside the box, then through the box direct to the batteries.
Not saying its right, but that's how I did it
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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06-13-2014, 02:44 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,855
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I ran everything straight back from the bottom left side, across the back wall, over to the ats. I hired a midget to crawl over the top of the box and then feed me the wires.
__________________
2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff
2013 36FL
Cindy and Tom, Toby and Kasey (our Berner and Newfie)
Oh...I forgot the five kids.
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06-13-2014, 07:53 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 38
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Thanks for the responses guys. I'm with you Atom Ant, I'm not sure if there is really a right or wrong way to do it but I thought I would ask.
Spindrift, if I understand you correctly, all your cables exit the box on the left side, then once outside the box they make their way around the back wall or is all the routing you refer to done inside of the box?
Thanks again for the help.
__________________
2013 38GK - Titan Disk Brakes, SRE4000
2016 F350 DRW
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06-13-2014, 08:48 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldave
Thanks for the responses guys. I'm with you Atom Ant, I'm not sure if there is really a right or wrong way to do it but I thought I would ask.
Spindrift, if I understand you correctly, all your cables exit the box on the left side, then once outside the box they make their way around the back wall or is all the routing you refer to done inside of the box?
Thanks again for the help.
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Exit outside the box and then around, and attached, to the back wall.
__________________
2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff
2013 36FL
Cindy and Tom, Toby and Kasey (our Berner and Newfie)
Oh...I forgot the five kids.
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06-17-2014, 08:01 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 38
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Well, I've got everything completed for the install except the LP hose coming off the regulator. I couldn't find one at the local propane dealer so I ended up having to order one on line. One last question about the WFCO transfer switch. Their are jumpers in place that say to use if the neutral on the generator is capable of handling 70 amps. The transfer switch on my previous Grand Junction wasn't setup like this. Did you guys leave the jumpers in place or remove them? I looked at the manual from WFCO but it wasn't very clear what the function of these jumpers were.
__________________
2013 38GK - Titan Disk Brakes, SRE4000
2016 F350 DRW
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06-18-2014, 12:28 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5,407
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Isn't there a special LP regulator if you have a generator?
__________________
SOB "The RV Wiseguy"
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06-18-2014, 01:28 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldave
Well, I've got everything completed for the install except the LP hose coming off the regulator. I couldn't find one at the local propane dealer so I ended up having to order one on line. One last question about the WFCO transfer switch. Their are jumpers in place that say to use if the neutral on the generator is capable of handling 70 amps. The transfer switch on my previous Grand Junction wasn't setup like this. Did you guys leave the jumpers in place or remove them? I looked at the manual from WFCO but it wasn't very clear what the function of these jumpers were.
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The jumpers should remain in place for both the load side, and generator side of the switch.
__________________
2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff
2013 36FL
Cindy and Tom, Toby and Kasey (our Berner and Newfie)
Oh...I forgot the five kids.
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06-18-2014, 04:55 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave&Ginny
Isn't there a special LP regulator if you have a generator?
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I'm not sure about it being special but the one that came with the gen prep package was the correct one.
__________________
2013 38GK - Titan Disk Brakes, SRE4000
2016 F350 DRW
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06-14-2015, 07:18 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atom ant
David,
I did my own. I ran the fuel supply in from the top of the box down the left side. I also ran the high voltage cable the same route. The fuel line and high voltage cable are exposed on the left inside of the box, but are secured to the bulkhead above the box after that.
A ran the battery cables along the bottom front inside the box, then through the box direct to the batteries.
Not saying its right, but that's how I did it
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Atom ant; can you post a pic of how you run your exhaust pipe? i have the 38GK I am concerned about the ground clearance. I also installed mine. Not sure there is a right or wrong way to install the Genset.
Mark
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06-14-2015, 04:35 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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Mark,
I just ran mine straight out. I had the exhaust pipe from previous installs, but I had to shorten the height because the Redwood sets low to the ground, and Redwood didn't use any kind of frame structure under the generator like the previous brand we had the gen installed in. A muffler shop shortened the rise and re-welded it.
Not the greatest pic, sorry. Everything I looked at had shadows or coolers stored in front of it.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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06-14-2015, 09:09 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,674
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Most manufacturers will not run the exhaust out under a slide (they will angle it further back so it does not exit under anything) , I assume having the exhaust under the slide is not a good thing, could leak carbon monoxide into the slide room.
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Robert & Sheryl
2014 Redwood 38FL
MoRyde 8K IS, Disc Brakes, MoRyde Pin Box
17.5 Goodyear G114's, RV Armor Roof
2018 RAM 3500 DRW, Curt Q24 Hitch
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06-15-2015, 06:33 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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I have a hard time believing that by running the tailpipe back to that 2' space between the slides that I can actually train my carbon monoxide to "only" go straight up To me the way Redwood runs it, it is actually more hazardous because it puts the exhaust closer to the lower hanging slide, with greater potential for it to collect underneath. If you seriously look at my picture you'll see what I mean. I'm actually more out in the open than the Redwood design.
I know something has changed in the code when I see all these generator pipes running down the side like a Corvette with sidepipes , but my tailpipe came off my 2003 which was installed by the factory and ran exactly how I have it now with the same slide arrangement. I figure it didn't kill me then, I've got a fighting chance it won't this time either.
Just remember no matter where your tailpipe discharges, you can create your own issues running the rooftop fans on exhaust. Those things pull enough CFM to pull a negative and you can draw many nasty things back into the trailer.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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06-15-2015, 11:29 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,674
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I agree AA, I have seen some goofy installs by the factory, probably a legal thing.
__________________
Robert & Sheryl
2014 Redwood 38FL
MoRyde 8K IS, Disc Brakes, MoRyde Pin Box
17.5 Goodyear G114's, RV Armor Roof
2018 RAM 3500 DRW, Curt Q24 Hitch
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06-16-2015, 07:35 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 209
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exhuast pipe
Atom Ant, my plan is to angle it back further so that I can attach a gen-turi system. Thus getting the exhaust up above the roof line. That is why I wanted to see how you routed yours. I actually see nothing wrong with yours. ON my last Fifth wheel I installed my own 7KW Onan and I actually let it exhaust straight out the bottom. Would set a fan up at the edge of the bottom of the RV so it would blow the fumes out from under the RV. And I only done that when there was no natural breeze strong enough to keep the fumes from building up underneath. I never had a problem with that set up. However I was careful and made sure my sensors inside were operating properly.
Another question I have for you. Do you find that leaving the cargo door closed makes the generator run to hot? Did you make any additional fresh air vents for the Generator box?
Thanks Mark
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06-16-2015, 04:45 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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Mark,
I had the same concern back when I put it in our 2007, but no vent is needed beyond the bottom. If you look in the manual, the generator has a large fan and shroud on the bottom that draws air up from the bottom and circulates it around the generator than pushes it back out the bottom. All you need is the bottom opening (which is already configured in the cabinet with the gen prep). Everything above the base is designed to stay enclosed for quietness.
Two mistakes I made that are good lessons learned:
My generator has some holes in the base for routing exhaust out the front, side, or back. Those need to be covered with aluminum tape (per Onan), or the fan will push heat into your cabinet and can melt the cabinet door like I did on my Montana. With those unused holes closed off, it will run nice and cool.
I was messing with mine and I left the cabinet door open and the front panel off and ran it for an hour in the heat - it actually shut down from overheat and I almost destroyed it. With the cover off and cabinet opened, it disrupts the cooling flow out the bottom and it will quickly overheat. Fortunately it survived as that was 11 years ago, and that same generator has been our friend for 12 years now.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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06-17-2015, 12:03 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 512
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I think the way our exhaust is installed is ridiculous. Like you said AA: It puts it more near the living room slide which is much larger and lower to the ground. We never run our gen at night while we are sleeping anyway... at least we haven't so far. My pipe nearly drags the ground it is so LOW. We are talking about altering it. It is literally like 6 inches off the ground when we are underway. I am sure we will tear it off somewhere. PLUS: Carbon monoxide travels LOW, not HIGH. It settles. This is why water skiers and swimmers get killed hanging out behind the tow boat too long if it is running.
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Living the Dream in our 2015 38RL: 1600 watts solar, 800 ah lithium, slide in slide, residential refer, washer/dryer, Moryde 8K, H rated tires, Kodiak disc brakes, Drainmaster system, SeeLevel II
Our big girl is dragged around by our 2019 RAM 3500 Limited DRW
Grateful Veterans, Proud Americans, Devoted Partners, Parents and Grandparents!
LOVE the Full Time RV Life @OurRomanyLife
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06-17-2015, 12:49 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
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I'll tell you a funny story.
In front of my house, the street is downhill somewhat. I would typically disconnect from the truck and lower the front end so I could wash bugs off the front, and I noticed it would stop with about 5-6 inches of piston showing in the front. I just assumed that was the limit, so I would disconnect and use "auto retract" knowing it would stop short of hurting anything.
Went to wash it at a campsite - same routine - hit "auto retract" and ......it didn't STOP! It went straight to the ground and shoved that tailpipe clean up against the frame and up into the generator! I didn't even want to look!
As it turns out, the angle was just right so it didn't crush the tailpipe, and where it connect to the onan its on springs for the muffler so no harm done. What I learned is the leveling system wasn't limiting stroke on my street, it was limiting how far off level it was willing to travel. In the level campsite it was more than willing to take me all the way down.
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Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
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06-17-2015, 01:19 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 747
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We bought our '12 36RL used last April. Had a Onan 6500 watt already there when we purchased it. The exhaust runs to the rear of the drop frame then runs to the off door side or street side. Between both slide out rooms. Could easily run the Venturi exhaust up over the roof I guess If I wanted or need to. I believe if exhaust is run closer than 4 or 5 inches from underbelly types that are flammable they need some sort of heat shield. Exhaust must also be more than 36" from any slide out room opening.
Chris
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06-17-2015, 01:40 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,032
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On my RL it comes out of the Gen box and dumps straight down on curbside. Never had an issue. If the wind is blowing front to back you can smell it occasionally. You could run the venturi pipe straight up in front ofthe propane door and miss the bedroom window if you had a problem with it
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2015 36RL pushing a 2015 Denali
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