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09-07-2017, 02:10 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 34
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Power Cord Repair
My power cord black insulation is pulling out of the yellow Marineco cover exposing the conductors. I would like to remove the cover and repair the cable and strain relief however I can't get the yellow cover off. I have tried silicone spray under the cover from each end and prying back with some bicycle tire irons, I heated the cover with a heat gun, but can't get it to move. It seems like the cord exit end is glued in place.
Anyone know how to remove one of these covers?
__________________
2015 sequoia 38HRL
2005 F250 King Ranch Crew Cab, 4x4, V10, 4.10 gears (150K and counting)
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09-07-2017, 02:17 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 721
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I assume you're talking about the male end that plugs into the pedestal. Getting the length of conductors right and the right amount of diameter of the cord jacket to go under the strain relief is very important. It took me two different tries to get the combination right. But to get the two halves apart, there are three screws in the cord cap body and the two screws for the strain relief. I assume you've taken all three out, when I did, the two halves came apart quite easily.
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Jim & Mary 2013 36 RL with Titan Disc Brakes Residential Fridge Goodyear 17.5 H rated tires MORryde IS, MORryde pin box 2015 Ford F350 King Ranch DRW
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09-07-2017, 02:18 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 747
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It could be molded on. But most Marinco ends that I have seen have 2 smaller straight bit screws on the end where the twist lock terminal ends are. If you can find them, loosen or remove and the other end should come off.
Chris
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09-07-2017, 02:20 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 34
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It's the female end that connects to the twist lock connector in the coach.
There is no hardware or retainers. The yellow cover just slips over the connector body
__________________
2015 sequoia 38HRL
2005 F250 King Ranch Crew Cab, 4x4, V10, 4.10 gears (150K and counting)
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09-07-2017, 03:46 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,032
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You have to cut the cord as close to the plug as you can and then go on Amazon and purchase a new 50 amp plug and wire the cord into it
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2015 36RL pushing a 2015 Denali
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09-07-2017, 04:36 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,353
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40fa15e7-2c9f-45bf-8d5a-fbf0e3fe8653_1.d81de528d098f43c75ba3a42d3d46529.jpeg
I removed that end & added a 4 prong female end to my cord & use this adapter to prevent it from coming apart again.
__________________
Danny & Linda
Full-timed 10+ years
Former '13 FB owner
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Currently rv & truckless
Replacement undetermined
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09-08-2017, 09:18 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 34
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I pried around using a long thin screw driver and was able to loosen the yellow cover and slip it back on the cord. I am not impressed with what I found. There was only the front half of a twist lock connector and no strain relief. The back half of the cover was filled with an black adhesive substance that was suppose to bond to the cover and the wires. Not a very robust design, more like a cheap short cut.
I reworked the wiring by shortening the leads so that there is very little exposed conductor at the plug and the black cord jacket is right up to the connector body. I replaced the yellow cover and lock ring and attached a hose clamp at the end of the cover to secure the cable to the cover. I have now routed my cord over the last rung of the ladder so the weight of the cord is not pulling on the connector. I think that I will purchase a right angle adapter so the connection is vertical and I will add a fastener to cord to support the weight for the ladder.
__________________
2015 sequoia 38HRL
2005 F250 King Ranch Crew Cab, 4x4, V10, 4.10 gears (150K and counting)
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09-12-2017, 06:53 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobie16
I pried around using a long thin screw driver and was able to loosen the yellow cover and slip it back on the cord. I am not impressed with what I found. There was only the front half of a twist lock connector and no strain relief. The back half of the cover was filled with an black adhesive substance that was suppose to bond to the cover and the wires. Not a very robust design, more like a cheap short cut.
I reworked the wiring by shortening the leads so that there is very little exposed conductor at the plug and the black cord jacket is right up to the connector body. I replaced the yellow cover and lock ring and attached a hose clamp at the end of the cover to secure the cable to the cover. I have now routed my cord over the last rung of the ladder so the weight of the cord is not pulling on the connector. I think that I will purchase a right angle adapter so the connection is vertical and I will add a fastener to cord to support the weight for the ladder.
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The metal hose clamp is a great fix however I suggest covering the metal hose clamp with an insulating material just in case the "impossible" should occur. Even if you are throwing the camp breaker first a visitor could get a shock if the hose clamp should, over time cut into a power conductor. Based upon your description of the repair you would feel right at home replacing the original connector with a new right angle replacement connector. They are robust, and if rated for exterior duty will be safe while reducing the stress from the power cord weight. They are not cheap however and are about the cost of the right angle adaptor cord set similar to what you show. I have looked at several of the right angle adaptor cords however that creates another connection that needs weather protection. I also loop my power cord over the ladder support as you show. Seems like a simple and effective solution. Thanks for sharing your repair and photos.
__________________
Bob and Carol - Lees Summit, MO,
2016 Silverado 3500 HD, High Country DRW diesel, 3.73 gear ratio, long bed, 25K Reese Elite removable hitch with 2013 Redwood 36RL with 17.5" H-rated tires and MOR/ryde heavy duty shackle links and bushings; 6.5 KW gen
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