Replacing Schwintek motor mount frane screws with shoulder screws and z-clips

[rmoyers@mssi.net]

Like others, I have a Schwintek bedroom slide. The installation has a lot of sheared screws and I suspect other screws that appear fine are actually sheared 1/2" or more down the length of each screw.

I noticed the distance between the slide out front motor and slide out wall are too close and is causing some physical wear on the slide out wall around the motor locations (my first clue somethings not right).

While investigating the slide out wear, I wanted to ensure the slide out wasn't 'racking' and decided to ensure slide out motor synchronization. While ensuring motor sync, I noticed the frame mounted to the coach wall is flexing (yet not bending) back and forth, pulling the motor assembly away from its mount on the coach wall (and causing the motor to pull into the path of the slide out), then returning in place after movement has stopped. It will surely bend permanently if I don't resolve this now.

So...has anyone seen this behavior before. Based on some earlier comments in this forum I will be replacing ALL Schwintek mounting screws with stainless steel shoulder bolts and Z-clips.

I'd like to simply drill new mounting holes and replace the screws, but I've lost any trust the coach frame will endure the long term stress and will simply work it's way out).

Has anyone noticed similar movement on their Schwintek frames? Comments and recommendations are appreciated.

[Cactusjack]

Good morning, I have the same problem on my 2015 36RL Bedroom Slide. The last 2 or 3 screws on the lower right side of my outer trim frame push in and out along with the outer flange when I am moving the slide in and out. When the slide is fully extended out the outer flange trim against the surface of my coach is flush with the wall. When the slide is closed the lower right flange trim is pushed away from the wall along with the screws. I had my wife run the slide out and I did observe movement in that area and can only assume that this outer frame is part of the Schwintek assembly.

My local RV Tech suggested to get new stainless screws and drill pilot holes near the old screws and put new screws in that area. I am hesitant to do that and was hoping to hear more about this problem and solutions from other redwood owners. I do not see any other way to secure this other then putting more screws in. Any further input would be appreciated.

[Cactusjack]

Good morning again, I failed to also mention in my previous response that you may want to change the title of your post to perhaps “Schwintek Bedroom Slide Issue”. I think that may attract more responses. Just a thought on my part. Thanks, Jack

[rmoyers@mssi.net]

Good morning Jack,

I'd like to replace screws and call it a day. The trouble is I think that only gets you so far and you have a bigger problem later since there is a limited amount of wood material behind the mounting flange. I suspect that wood will begin to splinter and lose it's holding power fairly quickly.

I've done repairs on boats (Gulf of Mexico salt water pleasure boats ) where the wood behind the fiberglass got water (typically within the transom), started de-laminating and creating a much bigger problem. At that point you need to drill entry and exit holes in the fiberglass surface, and start an 'IV Drip' of epoxy resin to refill the damaged wood. As problematic as that is on a boat, you at least have lots of relative room on a boat vs the Schwintek flange locations.

Right now I'm inclined to use the drill thru shoulder screws and z-clip approach as a more durable solution. Like you I'm looking for alternative suggestions and/or anyone that's already done something similar.

Rodney

[Cactusjack]

Hi again Rodney, Upon examining as best as I can from the inside I did not notice any wood that the screws go into. It just appears that they penetrate the inner flange and that is it. I will check that out again given your response. I was also considering a thru bolt and nut arrangement but I do not think I can get my fingers let alone a tool in there from inside the coach. I would think your approach of z-clips would also be challenging given the almost no access from the inside. For now, I may be left with putting in additional screws.

I would have thought that the motor drive area would be secured to the coach frame on the bottom internally and not relying on those trim screws alone.

[rmoyers@mssi.net]

I'm 6'4" tall with 37" arms. While it's still difficult, I can get to the work area by setting the slide-out extended only one half it's full distance. This allows work on both in and out sides.

An alternative would be to remove the interior closet door. It's held by only a few screws (big surprise, right?). Still a lot of work no matter what approach you use.

P.S. My coach is a 2011 36RL. The flange assembly definitely has wood sandwiched behind the flange and interior wall. That wood is likely no greater than 1.5x1.5 actual size. Just think.....the whole assembly in screwed into the equivalent of a furring strip....

[Cactusjack]

Thank you so much Rodney for that suggestion. I will make a closer examination of it to see if there is the wood you’re talking about is back there on my 2015. If so I am going to follow your lead with the clips or bolt & nut may also be a good way to do it if I can get back there. Let’s keep each other posted. If the wood is back there it is no surprise if it’s a 1 x 2. I had to completely rebuild the wall between the basement and battery compartment area to strengthen it to allow me to mount my Go-power inverter charger on that wall which weighed 39 pounds. It took me several weeks of work to get that wall strengthened up. Thanks again, Jack

[rmoyers@mssi.net]

Hi Jack...your comment about frame connections got me thinking....the slide out is framed by the wall frame. I wonder what it would take to locate the vertical studs
and attach 'gusset like' connections from wall stud to schwintek flange. Do you know of anyone that's seen the factory tour and noticed this level of detail?

[Cactusjack]

Hi Rodney, unfortunately I have never been to the factory so I am no help with the attachment to stud question. I am however going to try and trace visually down to the bottom of the Schwintek to see if there is something to secure to. As I mentioned yesterday I am still unsure if I have a “wood” backing since when I looked at it last week I could see the screws on the backside toward the bottom of the flange. It could be that there is a stud, but it was off angle toward the bottom when the rig was built and the screws never went into it. I plan to go to the RV storage place in the next day or two to research options further, or even to run an additional screw or two into that area to try and reduce the movement issue. We will be using the rig for a three day RV Club outing over New Years and I would like some solution before then if possible. Thanks and let’s keep discussing this......Jack

[r time soon]

Most large openings in the sidewalls of most RV's are framed with aluminum tubing, most of the tubes do have wood inserted inside the tubes before that are welded to the walls prior to lamination. You should be able to drill some small pilot holes and add additional screws to help hold the rails for the Schwintek in place more securely.

I would also suggest to carefully measure the distance from the sides of the slide out room to these rails. We had one side that was closer than the other. Either due to wear or alignment it kept getting worse. After the Rally in 2016 we brought our RW to the service center for a few repairs that they couldn't get done on site at the Rally. They removed the entire Schwintek system from the walls of the slide out box and had Lippert rebuild the rails. Since ours is full body paint they needed to keep the exterior painted parts intact. There are glides or shoes that help when extending and retracting the slide out room, these were either broken or missing in places. Once Lippert rebuilt these rails and mechanisms we haven't had a problem since. Measure to see if something similar is happening to yours. If in a bind I would bet the rails will twist and break screws off and loosen others.

[Cactusjack]

Thank you Chris for that great input. I checked the RW yesterday and noted that you can actually feel the tip of the bottom two screws on the lower right side of the slide from the inside. They appear to be right up against what may be the rail you are talking about. If that is the case the rail may be slightly off angle on that bottom side since you should not be able to feel or see screws in that area assuming they went directly into the tubing you referenced. I am not sure if adding another screw at this point will help or just be adding another hole in the trim piece if they are not going into that tubing.

If I want to get further help given this potential problem for repair there appears to be a limitation on service centers in the Phoenix Arizona area that are willing to work on Schwintek slides. The two that I typically use continue to suggest that I take it to a Lippert Service Center for any repairs associated with Schwintek Slides....as if those are around here in Arizona..BUMMER !

Thanks for you help at this point.........Jack

[R38Special]

We are in Surprise, AZ, when we have had slide issues or any other problems with our 2015 38GK, we contact Larry, owner of Bullseye Repair. He has never disappointed, always able to help us including the Schwintek slides.
His phone # is: 602-843-8816. If you call him tell him Linda Young recommended you call him.

[Carl & Patti]

We had a similar problem on our 2017 36RL. The Schwintek slide would get out of sync causing it to bind and flex. Lippert's mobile tech came out, added metal bracing, then replaced both motors to ensure that there was adequate motor support. Never had a problem since.

[Cactusjack]

Thank you Linda for the update on this. I will give Larry at Bullseye a call regarding my issue. I also received a reply to check out Lippert Mobile Tech and not sure if they are located here in the Valley.....thanks again, Jack

[Cactusjack]

Thank you Carl and Patti. I am not sure if Lippert Mobile Repair operates in the Phoenix Arizona area, but I will check into this as well. Jack