Internal Trailer Brake Controller

[mhs4771]

The reason I had a spare CAM Module is because shortly before a Trip to Alaska last summer our CAM Module failed and left us with no Brakes on the RW and figured that $120 bucks was pretty cheap insurance if it were to fail again while in the Yukon.

[mhs4771]

GM Integrated Brake Controllers work different than an After Market controller. GM does not send 12 volts down the Brake Control line until it detects the proper resistance. What they do is send a pulsing digital signal down the line, if you try and read it with a meter, you'll see approx 3 Volts, resulting in many RV and TV Techs trying to tell you that you have a problem. Once you put the proper resistance on the line, approx 1 to 3 ohms, the system will give you the "Trailer Connected" message on the dash and will now provide the required voltage based on the setting on the dash.
I learned all this info when researching our problem.
So if you don't have a CAM Module, you can fake out the system by installing one or two wheel magnets between the Brake control line and ground, between the TV and the Hydraulic Pump.

[atom ant]

Originally Posted by RCAircraft

Question: just purchased 2016 Silverado 3500 DWD High Country long bed. Will the Titan disc brakes you installed on our 2013 36RL, at the 2015 RW rally work with this new truck? Thanks.

What? Another bites the dust!

[rob_fla]

Yep, on the GM trucks if you do not have good electrical trailer connections, your truck will not detect the trailer and the integrated brake controller will not work.

[TnB]

Originally Posted by xtasee

M&A What lets you know that you need the CAM? Do the brakes just not work or how can I be sure whether I need it or not?

If you don't have a prompt in you truck setup menu for hydraulic brakes, then you need the CAM module.

Question for the truck savvy: If you got a new truck that did have an option for hydraulic brakes, would you:remove the CAM for this setting, keep the CAM and continue with the electric brakes setting, or keep the CAM and set for hydraulics?

The advantage to having the CAM is that you can use a temporary truck to pull your RW if needed.

[Titan Guy]

Keeping the CAM will not effect anything. Keep it.

[atom ant]

My Redwood is kind of a floosy, as it has been "hooked up" to 3 different trucks, 2006, 2008, 2014. (and the silly girl is only a couple of years old..tsk tsk) The CAM is still there. The 2006 did not have the selectable electric/hydraulic on the IBC.

[hoosierguy]

Originally Posted by Titan Guy

Keeping the CAM will not effect anything. Keep it.

I agree with Ron. I did not realize until this past summer that I had the CAM module while Ron was helping me troubleshoot an issue with my disk brakes. When I originally ordered my 36RL, I ordered the disk brake option and apparently the CAM module came along as part of that option. Not realizing that, and, knowing that my RAM's integrated brake controller was not compatible with hydraulic, I had an aftermarket controller (Tekonsha Prodigy P3) installed which does have the capability to drive the hydraulic brakes. So, I could have saved the cost of buying the Prodigy, but, I have the luxury of having the two systems now. I guess I have a backup if one fails.

The Prodigy P3 works great through the CAM module.

[RW Cal]

Ron:
Just got my 2015 38RL out of the shop. The hydraulic brake line to the rear curbside disc was rubbing on the wheel and finally failed. New brake line, fluid and bleed and when I pull the brake away cable, it stops like hell. Unfortunately, my 2013 Ram 3500 DRW with an IBC doesn't do anything. The CAM says it supports the 2013 RAM. Any ideas as to how to troubleshoot this?
VR
Cal

[Titan Guy]

May need to call me. 405-626-7009
I am assuming this was an Redwood installed disc system using the Hydrastar actuator.
I am also assuming the Ram worked fine with the 38RL before the brake line problem.
When you pull the break away without the truck connected, the pump runs then very quickly bogs down indicating full pressure is reached. Correct?
All electric/hydraulic systems are sensitive to voltage/bad ground issues.
Clean the 7 way connectors. Make sure all wiring in the pig tail junction box is secure.
Check voltage at the truck plug. Then at the pig tail junction box.
Hook the truck up and hit the manual over ride on the controller. The pump runs then very quickly bogs down indicating full pressure is reached.
If everything above checks out you should be able to hit the brake pedal and build pressure.

Normally, if the brakes were not bled properly you would still have brakes but there would be a delay or very poor braking but not no braking.

The CAM module is not necessary for any actuator on the 2013 RAM. I would remove it from the wiring if necessary. Only if it is bad could it effect braking.

[RCAircraft]

Since the install at last year's RW rally my Titans have had about a one second delay for both the previous Ford and now the Silverado. Is the system bled at each disc caliper assembly?

[Titan Guy]

Bob, I don't remember where we mounted your actuator but we need to get together. We can try bleeding and yes each caliper is bled starting from the furthest point forward. I would like to try increasing the wire gauges on the white & black wires.

[RCAircraft]

Ron,
I could increase the wire gauge. What is the recommended gauge and what existing conductors need the change?

I can bleed the actuators. How long can the hydraulic pump operate before needing a cooling off period? Thanks.

[Titan Guy]

Bob,
Before doing anything. I would get a volt meter and check the Blue wire voltage at the truck 7 way. Then again at the junction box where the 7 way pig tail connects. And again at the actuator.

On your truck plug the 5 & 7 o'clock positions are your Blue & White wire terminals. Have someone squeeze the controller manual over ride and check voltage. Then step on the brake pedal and check voltage.

Do the same process at the junction box and the actuator.

We are looking for a voltage loss between the truck plug, pig tail and actuator.

On my last RW, when I had the IS installed, Mor/Ryde had trouble making the brakes work properly. Finally found a short in the pig tail.

[RCAircraft]

Ron,
Understood. Will check the voltages as noted and let you know what I find. If there is a voltage drop I will also correct and rerun the test. My RW is at a covered storage facility about 70 miles from home. Once this next winter storm blows through I will travel out to the facility and make the tests. Could be another week depending upon mother nature. Thank you for your timely reply.