Is it normal for hitch to clunk when starting/stopping

[robkathybat]

I have a Reese 20K #30081 that has a single jaw. When starting out or stopping it feels like the trailer moves back and forth inside the hitch clunking. It's almost like the jaw is not tight against the kingpin allowing it to move. Is there an adjustment for the jaw that would tighten up the connection? I've pulled tag along's forever only pulled the fifth wheel about 500 miles.

[ET156]

Originally Posted by robkathybat

I have a Reese 20K #30081 that has a single jaw. When starting out or stopping it feels like the trailer moves back and forth inside the hitch clunking. It's almost like the jaw is not tight against the kingpin allowing it to move. Is there an adjustment for the jaw that would tighten up the connection? I've pulled tag along's forever only pulled the fifth wheel about 500 miles.

There should not be any movement of the king pin when hitch to the receiver properly. I have over a million miles pulling trailer ranging from rv 5th wheels up to pulling 120 thousand pound loads across country and have never heard of a pin moving in the hitch. You might wont to have it looked at be for you go down the road again. I would not attempt to do any adjustments on my own. Can you call the dealer where you bought the hitch and ask them some questions? May be its a faulty hitch receiver. Good luck safe travels.

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by robkathybat

I have a Reese 20K #30081 that has a single jaw. When starting out or stopping it feels like the trailer moves back and forth inside the hitch clunking. It's almost like the jaw is not tight against the kingpin allowing it to move. Is there an adjustment for the jaw that would tighten up the connection? I've pulled tag along's forever only pulled the fifth wheel about 500 miles.

You should be able to see the jaws and they should be completely closed. If you have a hard time seeing them once hitched up, take some bright spray paint like yellow and paint the jaws which will make it easier to confirm. Do not however, I repeat, DO NOT stand under the back of the truck under the hitch pin looking unless you are 99.9% sure that you are hitched properly. The handle should be in the "in" position and the lock lever down over the handle. You are probably hearing and feeling a little chucking from the hitch movement when you take off or slow down to a stop. If the jaws are not completely closed than you have an issue to deal with.

[markw]

Originally Posted by robkathybat

I have a Reese 20K #30081 that has a single jaw. When starting out or stopping it feels like the trailer moves back and forth inside the hitch clunking. It's almost like the jaw is not tight against the kingpin allowing it to move. Is there an adjustment for the jaw that would tighten up the connection? I've pulled tag along's forever only pulled the fifth wheel about 500 miles.

I don't believe RV 5th wheel hitches latch as tight as a semi tractor. I'm deaf, so never heard any clunking until after I had a cochlear implant last year. I now hear my hitch. In the early 70s, when I worked in the garage of a regional trucking company, I don't ever remember hearing any noise. I still had decent hearing then.

Mark

[5th_Time]

If you have the TrailAir hitch, you get clunking all the time. I'm used to it...

[travelin' texans]

If you have the TrailAir TriGlide (with air bag & shock) you will get clunking when starting/stopping, the bottom plate is on rollers & moves a couple inches, grease all 9 zerks (3 are up inside seen from the back of hitch) & it will help some.

[almcc]

I have a Reese 24K hitch and I get an occasional "clunk" (since new) when I do a hard acceleration or hard braking, I consider it normal. I run with a "slick disc" which may contribute to the movement (more slippery). The Reese has a single "C" shaped jaw that grabs the pin, and it's closed and locked, but it may not be as tight as some other multi jaw types.

[mhs4771]

I'm in the "If you have the Tri-Glide crowd" Lippert's attempt at copying the Demco Glide failed big time. It doesn't stay centered, but instead moves forward when stopping and backwards upon takeoff. As noted, pumping it full of grease will help for short term.

[piper guy]

Same as Michelle, I've grown used to it but hate it. The hitch will be replaced this summer, just haven't decided if it's going to be a FlexAir or a MorRyde with a Comfortride Hitch.

[mhs4771]

Vaughan, hurry up and make up your mind so I know which way to go. Looking at the FlexAir and the RW Rally price, but have also been pricing Air Hitches, but they're two too three times the special FlexAir price.
Already checked and Lippert won't install one at the CG, have to go to there facility. May see if they will at least deliver one to the CG and maybe with enough Big Strong Guys to help we could get it changed out.

[Shane Wood]

I had no clunking with my rotoflex aND curt hitch. I have since installed the flex air and will let you know the outcome when I get to the rally which will be a good 2700 mile test

[robkathybat]

Thanks for all the replies. I have the Trailair Rota-Flex pinbox on the trailer. My Reese 20K hitch has the single "C" shaped jaw that I can see is engaged and has to be to allow the pin to be inserted. By rough measurement the hole formed by the jaw is approximately 1/16' bigger, makes sense you don't want binding when the jaw closes. While measuring I noticed that the jaw wiggles a little side to side. I think this could the noise The Trailair could be the culprit, but everything I've read about is says it essentially eliminates "chucking". I don't think I actually know what "chucking" is (my travel trailer never "chucked"), but I can tell you going down the road everything is smooth, it's only the braking or accelerating that produces the noise. At this point I'm not going to worry about it anymore. Again thanks for all the replies.

[piper guy]

LOL. i should know which way in a couple weeks. Really leaning towards the Comfortride and MorRyde pin box Have to decide because flex air is not compatible.
Decisions, decisions ......

[mhs4771]

Please explain, FlexAir is not compatible with what??

[RCAircraft]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

Vaughan, hurry up and make up your mind so I know which way to go. Looking at the FlexAir and the RW Rally price, but have also been pricing Air Hitches, but they're two too three times the special FlexAir price.
Already checked and Lippert won't install one at the CG, have to go to there facility. May see if they will at least deliver one to the CG and maybe with enough Big Strong Guys to help we could get it changed out.

I'm not big and strong however would be glad to help with the install. I carry too many tools including an impact drill and socket set.

[RCAircraft]

Our 18K TrailAir with the air bag and shock (and sliding plate) has some chucking during rare hard stops and starts. As mentioned above keeping the nine grease zerks well greased does help. The fit to or Reese Elite 25K hitch is very tight.

[markw]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

Vaughan, hurry up and make up your mind so I know which way to go. Looking at the FlexAir and the RW Rally price, but have also been pricing Air Hitches, but they're two too three times the special FlexAir price.
Already checked and Lippert won't install one at the CG, have to go to there facility. May see if they will at least deliver one to the CG and maybe with enough Big Strong Guys to help we could get it changed out.

When my son and I installed my Flexair, I backed the truck under the front, after removing all but two blots. Then lowered the old one to the bed. We then set the new one up on wood blocks, hanging a little over the end of the tailgate. Backed up again and only had to lift it a couple of inches. We did that mostly with a 4ft 2x4. There was very little lifting once the pin box was in the truck bed.

I have a 900lb boat winch hanging in the garage that I use to remove my hitch. That is how I loaded the Flexair.

Mark

[piper guy]

Michelle - I've talked to Rick at Comfortride quite a bit. He said that the airbag Pinbox when used with his cell technology hitch tends to give a jouncy ride that he hasn't been able to tame. When using a MorRyde Pinbox he doesn't have the problem and the ride is exceptional. Take a look at the Comfortride. Same man that designed the Trailer Saver designed the Comfortride after the time passed and he was able to. He's using cellular blocks rather than air bags and you vary the number of blocks to get the ride fine tuned.

[RCAircraft]

Originally Posted by markw

When my son and I installed my Flexair, I backed the truck under the front, after removing all but two blots. Then lowered the old one to the bed. We then set the new one up on wood blocks, hanging a little over the end of the tailgate. Backed up again and only had to lift it a couple of inches. We did that mostly with a 4ft 2x4. There was very little lifting once the pin box was in the truck bed.

I have a 900lb boat winch hanging in the garage that I use to remove my hitch. That is how I loaded the Flexair.

Mark

I have a 500 pound winch that slips into the truck's receiver for removing the Reese hitch. Could toss it in the truck if it would be of use at the rally.

[rob_fla]

When my Tri Glide Pin Box failed in TX and I had it welded back together, Redwood / Lippert shipped me a new Pin Box to my address in Tallahassee.

When I got back to Tallahassee and setup at my homebase campground, my friend next door helped me remove the old Tri Glide Pin Box and install the new Tri Glide Pin Box.

We used the truck method too, unbolting all the bolts but two and sitting one end on the trucks bed while taking the last two bolts out, installed the new one the same way.