Short Bed vs Long bed

[superdav]

Hello...its been awhile! We have a 2012 36fl which we LOVE. I have been towing it all these years with a Ford F250 SRW short bed with a SuperGlide sliding hitch. We are looking to get a new F350 SRW. I really like the short bed for maneuvering. My question is should I stick with the short bed or go to a long bed. I live on a narrow street and to back in to my driveway is pretty tight now. I wonder if the long bed would be a different radius.

Also, with regard to pin weight....what are the +/-? Is towing with a short bed harder on the engine as opposed to the long bed?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[ET156]

the long 8' bed is better, it makes backing up easier and rides better on the highway

[travelin' texans]

Originally Posted by superdav

Hello...its been awhile! We have a 2012 36fl which we LOVE. I have been towing it all these years with a Ford F250 SRW short bed with a SuperGlide sliding hitch. We are looking to get a new F350 SRW. I really like the short bed for maneuvering. My question is should I stick with the short bed or go to a long bed. I live on a narrow street and to back in to my driveway is pretty tight now. I wonder if the long bed would be a different radius.

Also, with regard to pin weight....what are the +/-? Is towing with a short bed harder on the engine as opposed to the long bed?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I'd agree with Ed!
The long bed will ride better, no fear of hitting the cab in tight turns & no need for the heavy sliding hitch.
The bed length does not affect the engine in any way, both will have the same engine , transmission & rearends. The bed length does affect where the pin weight is. The short bed the weight will be slightly behind the rear axle somewhat similar to a travel travel trailer, whereas the long bed the weight will be directly over or slightly in front of the rear axle thus the name 5th wheel.
I would have to say that with the 250 you were extremely overweight on payload (2200-2800lbs for a 3/4 ton), rear axle weight & GVW of the truck, especially with the FL floorplan where all the furniture & storage are ahead of the axles.
Most RWs are in the 1 ton diesel dually range as far as payload & pin weight, typically well over 3500+lbs (20-25% of the GVWR) with pin weight alone + whoever & whatever else you had loaded in the truck.
You definitely need a 1 ton, dually would be best & a long bed would be my recommendation.
BTW, there are a couple other brands of trucks that don't start with an "F" that are just as capable & for my .02 cents more so!

[superdav]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

I'd agree with Ed!
The long bed will ride better, no fear of hitting the cab in tight turns & no need for the heavy sliding hitch.
The bed length does not affect the engine in any way, both will have the same engine , transmission & rearends. The bed length does affect where the pin weight is. The short bed the weight will be slightly behind the rear axle somewhat similar to a travel travel trailer, whereas the long bed the weight will be directly over or slightly in front of the rear axle thus the name 5th wheel.
I would have to say that with the 250 you were extremely overweight on payload (2200-2800lbs for a 3/4 ton), rear axle weight & GVW of the truck, especially with the FL floorplan where all the furniture & storage are ahead of the axles.
Most RWs are in the 1 ton diesel dually range as far as payload & pin weight, typically well over 3500+lbs (20-25% of the GVWR) with pin weight alone + whoever & whatever else you had loaded in the truck.
You definitely need a 1 ton, dually would be best & a long bed would be my recommendation.
BTW, there are a couple other brands of trucks that don't start with an "F" that are just as capable & for my .02 cents more so!

Thanks for the answers....So the engine will work just as hard whether it is short or long bed? Difference would be the pin weight?

What about backing in my driveway with the long bed....will my backing radius be the same? or will I be out an additional 1-2 feet? That is my main concern...

[mhs4771]

I really can't add much because I've never towed anything with a Short Bed in 46 years of towing. Even when I had a 1982 Chevy S10 pulling a Pop-Up it was the Long Bed version, something just over 7' bed.

[travelin' texans]

Originally Posted by superdav

Thanks for the answers....So the engine will work just as hard whether it is short or long bed? Difference would be the pin weight?

What about backing in my driveway with the long bed....will my backing radius be the same? or will I be out an additional 1-2 feet? That is my main concern...

Before retirement I pulled a gooseneck trailer with a tractor & brush hog loaded onto it, probably 35-38' long, with a short bed extended cab SRW 1 ton V10 Ford. In retirement I had 2 GMC Duramax long bed dually crew cabs towing a 40' RW that I backed into my narrow driveway from a narrow street, after I figured where to start the turn backing up it was no problem. To be honest I couldn't say or didn't notice any difference in backing, turning or any other maneuvers between the Ford & my duallies other than fuel mileage, 6-8 mpg towing with the Ford & 8.5 to 13 towing with the GMCs.
With a newer diesel pickup w/ the 8 or 10 speed tranny's, tow/haul mode, 3.73 to 4.10 rear axles & the exhaust brake that engine setup is made to work without much strain. A gas engine towing 16.5k lbs will be straining & screaming especially in hilly or mountainous areas. IMHO any rv 12-14k lbs a diesel is a must have for ease of towing.

[superdav]

Thanks for the responses....I'm leaning toward the short bed. Because I will use it around town as well and that is what I am used to. I just need to make sure that the pin weight, etc will be fine. It appears to be. It is just now you have to pretty much order the truck through the dealer....so all t's crossed and i's dotted. I want to see a door sticker!

[travelin' texans]

Originally Posted by superdav

Thanks for the responses....I'm leaning toward the short bed. Because I will use it around town as well and that is what I am used to. I just need to make sure that the pin weight, etc will be fine. It appears to be. It is just now you have to pretty much order the truck through the dealer....so all t's crossed and i's dotted. I want to see a door sticker!

The yellow/white tag on the drivers door jamb will list the payload for THAT truck, it will state "passengers & cargo must not exceed XXXXlbs" then compare that number to 23% of your RWs GVWR posted on the drivers side front corner, these numbers will get you a in the ballpark on a trucks weight carrying capabilities.
Pay NO attention to the truck manufacturers inflated "max tow rating", that was arrived at by towing low profile utility type trailers with the loads directly over the axles, you'd exceed the payload considerably if towing a RV near that weight, weights are not adjustable on RVs. Also don't use any weights from manufacturers brochures, that's typically the numbers for a stripped down single cab version that no one would buy.

[XCMARK]

The 2020 and newer GM diesel pickup trucks have 3.42 rear end gears with a 10 speed trans , they have no problem pulling anything your willing to pull. Your going to find any newer diesel truck will go over weight in the rear axle before you run out of power. My 2020 duel wheel 3500 crew cab 4x4 factory rated to tow 31,200 lb gooseneck or 5th wheel , at that weight the rear axle would be over weight by around 1000 lbs assuming its a RV not a hot shot type trailer you can control pinweight . I will add the cab type will matter on the overall length of the truck, longer wheel base is more stable.

[superdav]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

The yellow/white tag on the drivers door jamb will list the payload for THAT truck, it will state "passengers & cargo must not exceed XXXXlbs" then compare that number to 23% of your RWs GVWR posted on the drivers side front corner, these numbers will get you a in the ballpark on a trucks weight carrying capabilities.
Pay NO attention to the truck manufacturers inflated "max tow rating", that was arrived at by towing low profile utility type trailers with the loads directly over the axles, you'd exceed the payload considerably if towing a RV near that weight, weights are not adjustable on RVs. Also don't use any weights from manufacturers brochures, that's typically the numbers for a stripped down single cab version that no one would buy.

Yes...that is what concerns me. The salespeople tell me what I want to hear not necessarily factual. I will basically be ordering it and you must place a deposit. I'm going for the Ford F350, Diesel, Lariat, 4x4, off road package. It appears to be more than enough truck, and I'm pretty sure it will be fine, but not being able to physically see it until it arrives makes me nervous. Found 1 on a lot 50 miles away that is close and going to check it out today...hopefully that will alleviate some concerns.

[travelin' texans]

For heavy towing I'd skip the off road package! Off roading & heavy towing are 2 different types of trucks. One is equipped with the suspension for carrying heavy loads, the other equipped with longer suspension travel & higher ground clearance for off road.

[superdav]

Originally Posted by travelin' texans

For heavy towing I'd skip the off road package! Off roading & heavy towing are 2 different types of trucks. One is equipped with the suspension for carrying heavy loads, the other equipped with longer suspension travel & higher ground clearance for off road.

Okay...thanks for that. I did some research on the off road package. You are right it just beefs up stuff for off road which we don't do. I still need 4x4 right? I have used it a few times to back the rv up a gravel hill and we live in snow country. you are just referring to the add on package not getting rid of 4x4?

Also...we test drove some trucks to determine if long bed or short bed affects backing. of course I didn't have a trailer but I did some backing with the different types and tried to simulate a trailer....couldn't really see a difference. it looks like maybe a foot and a half at the most....I'm guessing I would be able to back in to my driveway....just might be a little different but still do able. so we are thinking long bed.

So...lol...the configuration of the F350, Diesel, Lariat, 4x4, we did says it will tow 21,000+....I should be good?

FYI...the short bed was a couple hundred lbs. more not sure why

[superdav]

btw....my GMWR of the Redwood is 16,000

[Jim & Mary]

There are several of us on this forum who had perfectly good 1 ton diesel
SRW trucks (mine had only 9000 miles on it) who discovered how grossly overweight the load on the rear axle was. We went out and got a 1 ton dually and I'm very glad I did. I've heard all the talk about how difficult it is to drive in city traffic, how hard it is to park, etc..... Frankly the positives were way higher than the negatives. I'm sure you've maybe talked yourself into a SRW truck, but take my advice and do the rear axle loading comparison with a big Redwood 5th wheel and look at the DRW to compare. Okay, lecture is over.

[travelin' texans]

Originally Posted by superdav

Okay...thanks for that. I did some research on the off road package. You are right it just beefs up stuff for off road which we don't do. I still need 4x4 right? I have used it a few times to back the rv up a gravel hill and we live in snow country. you are just referring to the add on package not getting rid of 4x4?

Also...we test drove some trucks to determine if long bed or short bed affects backing. of course I didn't have a trailer but I did some backing with the different types and tried to simulate a trailer....couldn't really see a difference. it looks like maybe a foot and a half at the most....I'm guessing I would be able to back in to my driveway....just might be a little different but still do able. so we are thinking long bed.

So...lol...the configuration of the F350, Diesel, Lariat, 4x4, we did says it will tow 21,000+....I should be good?

FYI...the short bed was a couple hundred lbs. more not sure why

The 4x4 would be good.
As I mentioned in a previous post the max tow number in the rv world is meaningless, the payload is much more important number.
As you add options like 4x4, diesel & the fancy options package the payload goes down.

[superdav]

okay thanks for your help! Much appreciated...an option they have is:

11,400 (SRW)/13,000 (DRW Only) GVWR Package for $0

I looked at a couple of stickers that they had on the lot...and they both were 11,500 GVWR....in a Ford Forum they talk about derating?

Is this a downgrade? or is it better....confusing

[travelin' texans]

Originally Posted by superdav

okay thanks for your help! Much appreciated...an option they have is:

11,400 (SRW)/13,000 (DRW Only) GVWR Package for $0

Is this a downgrade? or is it better....confusing

The rv & truck manufacturers do their best to make it as confusing as possible by advertising "max tow weights" & rv "dry weights", both of which mean nothing in the rv world.
Those numbers you listed are gross vehicle weights, meaning that's the maximum weight of that truck plus whatever you load into/onto it including the pin weight of your RW.
Here's some examples to maybe help. A typical 5er will have a pin weight of between 20 to 25% of the RVS rated GVWR (dry weight + carrying capacity), your model will be closer to the 23% of the 16.5k lbs which is 3795lbs, subtract that from the trucks GVWR you listed then subtract the weight of the truck with everyone/everything loaded up, if all this is less than the number you've posted your good, if over you're overloaded.

[superdav]

okay...let me see if I understand this correctly. If I subtract 3795 from 11,500 it leaves with 7705. Does that mean I have that much more weight I could put in/on the truck...including passengers?

it looks like derating is more for licensing purposes....i guess some states have different thresholds for what is considered commercial....I'm thinking of leaving it standard or as is. I'm guessing it comes more in to play for DRW and work trucks for Licenses in some states?

[Ford truck guy]

Your confusing GVW with PAYLOAD..

My bro in law just picked up his 2022, F350 SRW, 6.7, 4x4, Lariat, short bed... His GVW is 11,500# ... His payload sticker on the door jamb shows 3500 ( i think) That means that he can safely put 3500# in the bed of the truck....

Add a wife, a hitch and that is 300# off that number.....

now your down to 3200# take ANY RV and look at the brochure, they will show LOW pin weights to suck you in... you have to scale it to truly know the real pin weight... for an average, take the GVW ( 16,500# ) and multiply by 20%-25%

16,500 at 20% = 3300#
16,500 at 25% = 4125#

my 2020 391RD has a pin weight of 3680 ( about 22%)loaded for a trip... my 2020 long bed has payload sticker showing 4562# with a recall for that number.. I know 2 others that showed almost an exact number and did the recall, their new payload is 4040..

The BIG numbers to stay in ( In MY mind) Is the tire capacity, and the RAWR ( Rear Axle Weight Rating) BOTH of which I am JUST below...

I am a weekend warrior, As soon as I hit the road for any longer periods ( retire) I will be in a DRW . .

[travelin' texans]

Originally Posted by superdav

okay...let me see if I understand this correctly. If I subtract 3795 from 11,500 it leaves with 7705. Does that mean I have that much more weight I could put in/on the truck...including passengers?

it looks like derating is more for licensing purposes....i guess some states have different thresholds for what is considered commercial....I'm thinking of leaving it standard or as is. I'm guessing it comes more in to play for DRW and work trucks for Licenses in some states?

NO!
You still need to subtract the weight of the truck loaded with you & everyone else + anything else you've added to the truck from that 7705lbs. If I'm not mistaken the weight of a 4x4 1ton diesel will weigh that or more than the 7705lbs with no one/nothing in it.
As Joe has shown with his payload that most likely you'll be over weight on a SRW 1 ton with only the pin weight.
As I pointed out, also Joe, most RWs are in the dually category with their pin weights. I understand the dually &/or the long bed are not what you want, but in the end the choice is yours, we've given you the information, what you chose to do is totally up to you.