Tow/Haul and Brake Control Gain Setting

[Willbetravlin]

My only previous towing experience has been @7,000 lbs of Airstream out west and east with an F-150 Ecoboost, so now we are cooking a different kettle of fish with the RW 31sl and the F-250, 6.7 diesel. When is tow/haul necessary or desirable? My 100 mile tow home (pretty empty of course) from the dealer seemed easy enough in the rolling hills of east Texas, so I never turned it on. I had the brake/gain set at 4.5 and the tech at the dealer tested it and said it passed his test, but I wonder.

[Shane Wood]

I run with it on all the time when towing. As far as gain each vehicle is different. I have mine at 6.5 you want to feel the trailer help to pull you down

[xtasee]

I have the same Rig pulling with a 2500 HD Duramax. We are in more mountainous terrain than you and have the Disc brakes.

I always tow with the Tow-haul mode activated whenever I tow to take advantage of the designed shift pattern both uphill and especially down. I also have my internal controller at 6.5 to 7.

[mhs4771]

Don't know about Ford or Ram, but with GMs with the Tow/Haul engaged not only does it change the shift points, it will lock up the torque converter in 2nd gear, thus eliminating a lot of extra slippage/heat allowing the xmission to run cooler.
So in our case, start the engine, engage exhaust brake and tow/haul before putting into gear.

[Rick and Mindy]

I always pull in Tow/Haul mode which will also activate your integrated exhaust brake if needed. To set your brake gain, pull fifth wheel on flat surface to 10-15mph then manually activate your brakes. If it locks up lower the gain, if not you might want to increase the gain. I also like to feel my trailer slow my truck down. When traveling at highway speeds I also set the gain a little higher so I can get that feel of the trailer slowing me down when exiting the highway.

[travelin' texans]

If the 5er is hooked up the tow/haul & engine brake is on & set the cruise control, if solo & driving through the hills the engine brake is on, I've found the truck is smarter than me.

[Char & Steve]

I have found that 6 to 6.5 works perfect with out setup. All are different.

Steve

[Jeff&Karen39MB]

Yes I agree, all are different, we run at 5 % on the gain, and have no problem stopping with the 2015 F350 6.7 diesel engine, run in toe haul every time we hook up as it is easier on the transmission and also recommended by manufacturer, also use engine brake when in hill country, or on taking a ramp depending on severity of curve we use our engine brake to help slow and save on braking, then turn off.
Have 33900 on the truck, and bought and replaced shoes last week thinking I needed to as we had just returned from a five month trip out west. Found out I really did not need to do but the front, and even that was overkill as only passenger side showed any sign of wear, but had purchased the shoes so did all. From here out I will do front one time, and next time do full change. I will inspect of course.
My nephew Ted did most of the work, I helped as best I could as I am not yet up to full strength from recent illness, though doing a lot better and finally getting to taste food again.
Safe travels all, and keep your wheels between the ditches.

[Shane Wood]

When pulling the exhaust brake is always on as well as tow haul. It saves your brakes even on flat land when stopping or slowing for any reason

[mhs4771]

My exhaust brake is on every time I start, tow/haul when ever hooked to the RW.
96K+ and a much of that is towing and still on the OEM Pads all around.

[travelin' texans]

My last truck had 176k when traded with the OEM pads on all 4 wheels & they still looked good & it had approximately 60+k towing without an exhaust brake.

[rob_fla]

I like other run my brake gain setting at 6.5 and always pull my Redwood with the Tow / Haul mode on.
With the Tow Haul mode engaged, it raises the shift points and increases firmness of the shift so the transmission does not have as much slip during the shifts under load which creates less wear.

[Jeff&Karen39MB]

Good Morning, haven't been out there as long as you, so learn sometimes thru the school of hard knocks, but you know what they say, an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.
Always enjoy your responses you are a wealth of information.

[Jeff&Karen39MB]

Yea, I figured that out once we started the replacements.
Will check trailer pads next and lube the IS system, will not replace if I don't need.

[Willbetravlin]

What is the "IS" system. I hate acronyms, but I don't mind asking. Better to seem stupid than just bump along not knowing.

[r time soon]

Hello. IS stands for Independent Suspension. It is the rugged suspension that a lot of full timers have put under their heavy redwoods to make it reliable on the road. MorRyde is the manufacturer. Quite a few folks had it installed in Elkhart just before or after this last national Redwood Rally.

Chris

[mhs4771]

IS = Independent Suspension. An After Market System sold and installed my MORryde in Elkhart, IN.
Totally removes the current axles and springs from your Trailer and replaces with a welded on system supporting each wheel individually via a Sheer Spring (Solid Rubber Block bonded to a Steel Plate on each side). Also adds a shock to each wheel location.
One of the better suspension systems you can install.

[rob_fla]

Great Suspension upgrade for Fulltimers that travel a lot of miles

Morryde Picture.jpg