Towing a RW 3821RL - Page 3

Rdelling · 08-01-2018, 06:44 PM

RWJSIM2003 · 08-01-2018, 07:26 PM

Nice Truck. Looks great.

atom ant · 08-01-2018, 09:06 PM

Wow! I didn't wait long!! That is a beautiful truck! The rear fenders are tamer than the wide hip duallys of the past. I've seen these going down the road, they are sharp looking!

XCMARK · 08-01-2018, 10:28 PM

WOW , didn't see that one coming. I am 100% sure that it is a smart decision . Congratulations At some point I need to figure out if a 1 ton DRW works for a daily driver, I driver about 30,000 a year so it adds a fair amount of cost.

Shane Wood · 08-01-2018, 10:46 PM

Nice looking truck you have there

travelin' texans · 08-01-2018, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XCMARK

WOW , didn't see that one coming. I am 100% sure that it is a smart decision . Congratulations At some point I need to figure out if a 1 ton DRW works for a daily driver, I driver about 30,000 a year so it adds a fair amount of cost.

We've had a dually as a daily driver since 1/1/05, it can be a challenge, but it does work, you learn to park farther away & back in to spots.
The only place I really hated our dually was in New Orleans particularly down in the French Quarter, if we ever go back we'll rent a tiny little car.

Gary Hage · 08-02-2018, 02:18 PM

Now you will be able to completely relax when towing your Redwood, knowing God forbid you ever have a drive tire blowout, you stand a much greater chance at maintaining control of the rig and bringing it to a safe stop. I've actually been considering selling my little HDT and going with something like what you just bought. Reason why, as long as I've been fighting my cancer now, and seeing the many side affects it has left me with that most likely will stay with me the rest of my life. Unfortunately, I see them as issues that will greatly restricted our ability to travel in our RV as we originally planned. But every time I think about giving up a fully paid for toter, only to go in debt on a new heavy duty pickup truck, I cringe. The idea in life in the early sixties, is to be working on getting out of debt, not deeper into it!

Rdelling · 08-03-2018, 06:20 AM

Are air bags needed with a dually.

Highcountrybarry · 08-03-2018, 01:21 PM

I have found no need whatsoever for airbags on my GMC 3500.

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Gary Hage · 08-03-2018, 05:35 PM

Our best friends have pulled their 17K 2006 Mobile Suites all over the country with their 2006 GMC Dually without airbags for eleven years without need to add on the bags. I think in a lot of cases, it just comes down to choice.

travelin' texans · 08-03-2018, 06:03 PM

Depends on the truck! Some brands have the headlights aimed too high empty, then sag the rear 3-5" you can forget driving after dark, unless you're squirrel hunting.
The RW on my GMC just levels the truck. I did add the Timbren bump stops to keep it off the overload springs when empty, which helped some.

Shane Wood · 08-03-2018, 08:29 PM

I run Firestone bags on mine. Truck only sags 1 1/2"
With 4000 lb pin weight. They help smoothen the rebound coming off the overloads on bridge expansion joints. Usually run 45lbs when towing

XCMARK · 08-04-2018, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane Wood

I run Firestone bags on mine. Truck only sags 1 1/2"
With 4000 lb pin weight. They help smoothen the rebound coming off the overloads on bridge expansion joints. Usually run 45lbs when towing

My SRW 3500 GMC has bags , I can run 5 psi-30 PSI empty all it does it raise the ride height of the rear. The ride empty doesn't get harsh . Over 30 It lifts the back up almost 4" and it just looks like a 19 year old kid owns the truck..... The raised ride height gives the shocks and springs a chance to absorb the bumps the roads in New England can dish out. Loaded I run 45 PSI and its about 3/4" higher then stock empty height. The aftermarket also has rubber and close cell foam helper . In the last 2~3 months Trailer life did a write up on the close cell units. About the same price as bags. Honestly Great shocks made a bigger difference then bags as long as your not bottoming out or so soft that it wallows. I still feel shocks on the trailer are a must , I cant see doing half the job so I am holding out for Morryde IS. I would say run it stock first for a 1/2 hour ride and form your own opinion. DRW trucks have more spring compacity then SRW trucks , you may be fine with out any changes.

I would suggest putting 1000 miles on the truck empty not pulling then change the motor oil , transfer case , and front and rear differential oils. The tcase and rear diff is the most important. I have found that swaping the fluids myself isn't that much money but is sure has a LOT of metal in the oil from break in. I swap the diff and t case fluids every 25,000 mile and never have thought it was a waste. the Automatic trans I swap fluids every 25K for the first time and every 50K after

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