Trailer Saver TSLB2H Hitch: Proper pin height for

[GHage]

In setting up our current work toter to pull the 36FB, I'm not sure what the correct or average height of the air pin should be as measured from level ground. Have not found anything that addresses this in the owner's manual either. Since we are on a grass site that is not level, not gonna get a good measurement there even with the Fiver level.

The frame rails on our Kenworth T-600B are currently 37.25" above grade ( as measured to top surface of frame rail). By adding a 5/8" thick steel plate to mount the TS head on and it having an 11" high operating height would place the pin at 48 7/8" above grade. Is that about where it should be or to high?

I've noted that some folks with the class 8 toters mount their air head hitches lower between the frame rails. I do not have this option with our T-600B as long as it is a working truck. I will have to mount the 5/8" steel plate on top of the frame rails and the hitch assembly to that.

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My plan is to mount the TS hitch to the rear of the commercial hitch shown in photo by building up the angled down area of the frame and place a taller cross piece at the very rear of the frame to provide a flat area of support for the 5/8" steel plate to bolt to. When not pulling the Redwood, the TS hitch would simply be unbolted from the plate an removed so as not to be in conflict (in the way of hooking the work trailer to the commercial hitch) with the commercial hitch. At least that's the plan until we can find a regular HDT we like and can afford or retire the KW and chop it down!



Edited by: GHage

[rcflame]

Up until a couple years ago, we pulled with a medium duty F/L with a Trailer Saver Hitch. We now use a 1T dually with the T/S hitch. Your main goal is to be able to go down the road with the trailer level.First, do you have a Tri-glide air pin on your trailer. If you do, I would change it, or not use an air hitch. If you have both, you may end up with the two fighting each other. Our trailer originally had the air pin, but as part of the deal I swapped it out since I already had the trailer saver hitch. Since this is an important set up, I would move the trailer to a level spot where I could get a good measurement I would measure the height of the trailer pin with the trailer level. . If the pin is to low to pull level, see if the pin box can be raised and see what the measurement would be if it was raised. I have seen other class 8 trucks with the trailer saver mounted on top of the frame rails, so I think you should be able to work it out.

[GHage]

Originally Posted by rcflame

Up until a couple years ago, we pulled with a medium duty F/L with a Trailer Saver Hitch. We now use a 1T dually with the T/S hitch. Your main goal is to be able to go down the road with the trailer level.First, do you have a Tri-glide air pin on your trailer. If you do, I would change it, or not use an air hitch. If you have both, you may end up with the two fighting each other. Our trailer originally had the air pin, but as part of the deal I swapped it out since I already had the trailer saver hitch. Since this is an important set up, I would move the trailer to a level spot where I could get a good measurement I would measure the height of the trailer pin with the trailer level. . If the pin is to low to pull level, see if the pin box can be raised and see what the measurement would be if it was raised. I have seen other class 8 trucks with the trailer saver mounted on top of the frame rails, so I think you should be able to work it out.

Yes our 36FB came from the factory with the TS air pin already installed. Although there are some in the HDT group that pull with both an air pin and air head in combination, I've always wondered if that is not overkill and going to make the ride to mushy at the pin.

Having seen how chucking destroyed a beautiful 43' Teton we were looking to purchase because it was not pulled with the proper pin/head setup. The bedroom wall on the off door side lifted 1/2" off the floor when the landing gear was raised. So in wanting to insure that with the stiffer suspension on the class eight toters we aren't bouncing the Fiver to death, I certainly want to protect it yet have the correct ride and feel when towing it. I have to wonder with the TS air pin that's already on the trailer and an articulating head if that would be equal to a fixed pin and an air head in doing what I'm wanting to do here.

[rcflame]

I have never had the trail air pin, so I can't speak to it, but I have used the trailer saver hitch on a mdt, and now a 1t p/u. With the trailer saver you can look in the mirror and watch the trailer float when on rough roads or going over hard bumps. Several times I have seen the damage done by solid hitches used with heavy trailers. I once saw a Carriage where the pin box went through the bedroom floor and the trailer itself end up sitting on the hitch. If you don,t have the hitch yet, and you have enough clearance, hook the trailer up to the hitch on your KW and see how it rides. I don't know what air pressure you should have in the pin, but I know it has been discussed in the forum. You may be able to get by with a standard hitch with the articulated head and save some $'s.

[GHage]

I'm with you rcflame. I believe that the Trail Air pin has about the same amount of up and down travel distance as most air head assemblies to cushion the chucking and energy from most rough roads. With the type suspension (4-airbag/axle) the Kenworths have over the Volvo etc I believe an articulating hitch will be ample for our needs. I don't plan on hauling our Redwood 70mph down the highways anyway.


Edited by: GHage

[NIOMARVIN83]

Joining the discussion on optimal setups for hauling, especially considering the complexities of proper hitch alignment and protecting the integrity of the trailer, it's clear there's a wealth of experience here. I've been following along and grappling with similar concerns while setting up my Kenworth. It's tricky navigating the balance between sufficient cushioning and preventing too much movement that could lead to wear or damage. I've been pondering the idea of consulting with a specialist to get it just right. Recently, I came across WWTC that was mentioned in one of the forums. They seem to have a good reputation with Kenworth trucks and might provide the nuanced advice needed for such a delicate balance. I've read a lot of them here: https://wallworktrucks.com/2024-new-...h-truck-models It's always good to weigh in on more experienced voices, especially when it comes to protecting such valuable cargo. What are your thoughts or experiences with getting that perfect setup?